Would this soldering Iron be OK for 7 mm etched loco and coach kits

[michl080]

I am experienced at soldering PCB's, wiring etc, just not brass to brass or whitemetal.

Ian,

if you are coming from PCB soldering (like I did), the problem might be that you underestimate the amount of heat you need to warm up the metal. You can get a better idea of the needed energy if you cut a very small piece of elctronic solder (like.5mm), position it close to your point of interest, apply some flux and heat it up. If the heat is right and you are using the correct flux, the solder will start flowing as soon as the heat is right. Don't start applying more solder or you will get poor joints. I am using plain 25% phosphoric acid.

 

Michael

[doilum]

Ian,

if you are coming from PCB soldering (like I did), the problem might be that you underestimate the amount of heat you need to warm up the metal. You can get a better idea of the needed energy if you cut a very small piece of elctronic solder (like.5mm), position it close to your point of interest, apply some flux and heat it up. If the heat is right and you are using the correct flux, the solder will start flowing as soon as the heat is right. Don't start applying more solder or you will get poor joints. I am using plain 25% phosphoric acid.

 

Michael

I have recently received a new 60W iron. This has a relatively small bit which heats up quickly but lacks the heat mass needed for larger jobs. Back to an old 80W Weller with a thumb sized bit.

This is where the RSU scores. A massive on / off heat hit just where it is needed.

[ianLMS]

All god hints and tips - I am at the York show over Easter so will see what solders/flux's I can pick up and may well pay the demonstrators a visit. There is always an expert kit maker there to pester!

[doilum]

In that case, look out for London Road Models and see if they have a demonstration RSU .

[hayfield]

I have recently received a new 60W iron. This has a relatively small bit which heats up quickly but lacks the heat mass needed for larger jobs. Back to an old 80W Weller with a thumb sized bit.

This is where the RSU scores. A massive on / off heat hit just where it is needed.

 

For what its worth I use an Antex 25 watt iron (have 2) with 3 size bits, the larger of which O use for 4 mm scale etched kits. also using the correct flux helps 

[Jol Wilkinson]

An interesting thread and full of the usually diverse suggestions.

 

 

Ian, 

 

go and see John Redrup on the LRM stand (preferably Sunday or Monday when it is less busy).

 

LRM 12% Phosphoric acid flux and 145 solder will do nearly all  you need. I use that and Carr's 100 deg. solder for white metal, cored solder for electrical work and nothing else.

 

John will have a RSU on display but wont be demonstrating it . That's where the demonstrators come in, although you may well get a different opinion. We all get used to different approaches over time and stick what works for us. If you came and talked to the operating team on London Road​ you'll probably find the same, although my way is the best!

 

 

Jol

[ianLMS]

An interesting thread and full of the usually diverse suggestions.

 

 

Ian, 

 

go and see John Redrup on the LRM stand (preferably Sunday or Monday when it is less busy).

 

LRM 12% Phosphoric acid flux and 145 solder will do nearly all  you need. I use that and Carr's 100 deg. solder for white metal, cored solder for electrical work and nothing else.

 

John will have a RSU on display but wont be demonstrating it . That's where the demonstrators come in, although you may well get a different opinion. We all get used to different approaches over time and stick what works for us. If you came and talked to the operating team on London Road​ you'll probably find the same, although my way is the best!

 

 

Jol

Will do and will be interested to see the demonstrators show off their skills as well! 

[Tricky Dicky]

I find that these two cover all my needs.

 

2017_0607Workshop0001.JPG

 

The only hard bit is getting into tight corners.

On the other hand, my wrist strength has improved mightily.

 

Regards

 

Ian

That takes me back to my school days working with tinplate. Just looking at the photo I can smell the soldering irons heating in little gas stoves and the tang of killed spirits.

 

Richard

[Ian Smeeton]

That takes me back to my school days working with tinplate. Just looking at the photo I can smell the soldering irons heating in little gas stoves and the tang of killed spirits.

 

Richard

 

That sounds interesting, exorcising the gin?

 

Regards

 

Ian

[M51625]

nothing wrong with antex, my 25w iron is my weapon of choice for most things, including many 7mm kits, it is like triggers broom though, 2 elements and numerous tips replaced in 22 years.

 

I do have a generic (halfords?) 60w heavy duty iron for big jobs but it rarely gets used as the antex is usually upto the job.

 

Certainly sufficient for connoissuer models kits..some are still holding together after 20  years. Not expensive either.

 

Hope that helps.

[ianLMS]

nothing wrong with antex, my 25w iron is my weapon of choice for most things, including many 7mm kits, it is like triggers broom though, 2 elements and numerous tips replaced in 22 years.

 

I do have a generic (halfords?) 60w heavy duty iron for big jobs but it rarely gets used as the antex is usually upto the job.

 

Certainly sufficient for connoissuer models kits..some are still holding together after 20  years. Not expensive either.

 

Hope that helps.

All useful information helps. I am definitely picking up that I dont need to spend £100+ on a temperature controlled soldering iron, when a £30 25w/40w one will do. Success appears to come from using correct flux, solder and good cleaning practices more than the tool itself. 

 

Shopping list now contains:

Carrs 70 WM Solder

188 Solder (or 145 solder)

Carr's Green Flux (for Brass)/Carr's Red Flux (for WM) or LRM 12% Phosphoric acid flux

Viakal (from Tesco's)

Used toothbrush (free)

Used take-away tub for cleaning (free after enjoying the contents)

Patience and practice (time is costly and in short supply, but determination is abound)

 

After winning the lottery, I can then obtain an RSU with over-head ventilation system contained in a purpose built railway room/workshop and as I wont need to work, I can spend all day every day burning myself, intoxiacting myself on the fumes and blinding myself from spilt Viakal. Good times ahead I feel!!

[Jol Wilkinson]

All useful information helps. I am definitely picking up that I dont need to spend £100+ on a temperature controlled soldering iron, when a £30 25w/40w one will do. Success appears to come from using correct flux, solder and good cleaning practices more than the tool itself. 

 

Shopping list now contains:

Carrs 70 WM Solder

188 Solder (or 145 solder)

Carr's Green Flux (for Brass)/Carr's Red Flux (for WM) or LRM 12% Phosphoric acid flux

Viakal (from Tesco's)

Used toothbrush (free)

Used take-away tub for cleaning (free after enjoying the contents)

Patience and practice (time is costly and in short supply, but determination is abound)

 

After winning the lottery, I can then obtain an RSU with over-head ventilation system contained in a purpose built railway room/workshop and as I wont need to work, I can spend all day every day burning myself, intoxiacting myself on the fumes and blinding myself from spilt Viakal. Good times ahead I feel!!

 

Ian,

 

if you can get a 40 or 50W iron, then that will be an advantage. The higher the power (wattage) the more able the iron is able to maintain the tip temperature when applied to the work. Brass in particular is a good conductor of heat, so the tip temp. can drop rapidly when applied to the work. The bigger the model, such as 7mm, then their is more metal and heat soak. For that reason 145 solder is the better choice.

 

If you can afford a good quality TCU, it is worth it. 

 

You could try this, although I have no personal experience of it;

 

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/soldering-stations/9092095/

 

Edited to add this;

 

https://www.rapidonline.com/xytronic-lf-399d-80w-digital-soldering-station-85-6790

 

Likewise if buying a "standard" soldering iron, look for an established brand where replacement tips are available. A flexible silicon cable is also good, such as Antex supply as an option.

 

Jol

Edited March 23, 2018 by Jol Wilkinson

[hayfield]

Ian about right to kick off with, a small selection of spare tips of differing sizes might also be a good idea

 

I have been recommended a 60 watt digital variable temperature controlled solder station at about £50 which I probably buy after chatting with the suppliers about additional tips