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This thread will record my attempts to model one of Edmund Bury’s original mainline locomotives.

A lot of thought has gone into this, not much action but a lot of thought.


Inspiration came from a simple search to find more info about my local station Tring.

During my searches I came across this amazing document: http://gerald-massey.org.uk/railway_local/

From this I bought my ‘bible’ – Locomotives of the LNWR – Southern Region, by Harry Jack.

This has a wealth of information including cutaway drawings of both original Bury locos, the 2-2-0 Passenger and the 0-4-0 Goods.


I chose the Goods version because I quickly realised that wheels were not going to be available commercially and anything I needed I would have to make myself.

Being an 0-4-0 all wheels would be the same so if I could make 1 I could make 4.


It took 12 months (I get easily distracted) but I finally designed and had the following wheels 3D printed in FUD by Shapeways.

The design is based on the dimensions of Alan Gibson’s 5ft rims, as used in their BoxPox Bulleid wheels.

The design needed to change slightly to accommodate the slightly different rims used in the more universal 20mm wheels.

This thread discusses the differences:-  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/130587-gibson-5ft-wheel-rimstyres-has-the-design-changed/

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What scale is this?

A fantastic project, it's great to see the early railways being modelled, if I recall correctly, Aylesbury 2-2-0 bury no. 2 finished her days providing hot water for the foot heaters at Birmingham

Have you a link to your shapeways shop? I wouldn't mind doing such a bury in the future

Edited by Killian keane
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Hi Killian.

The model is in 4mm.

Later posts will detail why I've had to choose EM against OO - essentially due to the available back-2-back distance required to clear the firebox.


One of the Aylesbury numbered locos will be built once I've mastered the Goods locos.

I also have dreams of a Stephenson's Patentee as a contractor's loco, but that will likely be a long, long time off, perhaps in a Galaxy far, far away.

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Later posts will detail why I've had to choose EM against OO - essentially due to the available back-2-back distance required to clear the firebox.


Not sure you need to explain any more than that.
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In between designing the wheels I did make a start on the drive train.

The boiler/firebox and back axle align almost perfectly to accommodate a Mashima 10-series motor and a HighLevel SlimLiner+ gearbox.



This combination was settled very early on but since then I’ve manufactured 3 different boiler mounting combinations to try to get everything fitted in the correct place.

This is the latest idea.


This motor mount is fixed inside a K&S brass tube #8140, which is 17/32 = 13.49mm.

This is turn slides into tube #8141, which is 9/16 = 14.29mm, which forms the boiler proper.


The design idea is to use the boiler as the structural component and have the frames as a cosmetic addition.

By using the smaller tube I can fine-tune any adjustments without affecting the boiler itself.

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As is my way, I've re-made the gearbox/motor mounting and finally the motor sits straight and level in the tube.

With this sorted attention turned to the front axle.


I first tried to use a pair of Gibson sprung-hornblocks, mounted on the frame, but found them too difficult to fit and adjust.

A second idea was to run the axle in a sleeve and pivot the sleeve, allowing some compensation.

I thought this was a new and unique idea until I saw the same idea mentioned in Guy William's Model Locomotive Construction book.

If it was good enough for him then it will be more than good enough for me.


It only took 3 attempts to get my version to work, with the axle at the correct height and at the right distance from the smokebox.




Does anyone know if I should try to put some springing on to pivot or can it be allowed to twist freely?
Finally, just to show an idea of how far I've got.


Note: I'm making as much of this model as I can out of brass, copper or lead to make it as heavy as possible.
The weight-to-date is 20g


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Does anyone know if I should try to put some springing on to pivot or can it be allowed to twist freely?


You have achieved 3-point suspension. No need, or point, in springing it. Indeed, that would be counterproductive, as the axle needs to find its own balance.
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  • 2 weeks later...

After at least 4 different attempts incorporating over 20 modifications I have finally made my firebox.

The change to EM became obvious after trying to build inside the OO width limits.

After that it was different ways of adding the dome and the front lip that overlaps the boiler.



This is the final design.



I eventually gave up trying to solder lead sheets into place and settled on lead shot set in Miliput.
Weight-to-date is now 58g


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For making the smokebox I'm going to need some rivets.

I've looked at the stick-on variety but decided to have a go at embossing my own into the brass sheet I'll be using.

As ever, Google provided some inspiration.




The rod is from B&Q, M4 at £1.15.

The sliding weights are a fishing weight and a stair-rod end, drilled out to fit over a short length of brass rod.

The short nose end was turned in a drill to a point and it attaches to the rest of the rod using a cut-down cupboard joiner from IKEA.


It works by lifting the weight a set distance,

I haven't chosen which brass thickness vs drop height yet but these are the results:








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As with the every other part of this build I've made the riveted smokebox twice.

I have tried to harden the tip of the riveter and might have been successful, at l least I think it hasn't changed with use but I'm pleased with the results.


The second attempt showed that practice makes better, even if not perfect.



This is the main structural and weighty part of the build completed, everything else is cosmetic.

Note, the axles are too close together but the way the front suspension is made allows me to change this.


p.s weight-to-date = 74g

Edited by Boston Lodge
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  • 2 weeks later...

This is proper. Is it just that I haven't got my specs on, or are the leading wheels different from the trailing wheels? The leading wheels don't appear to have metal treads/rims.

Edited by Ruston
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