Blackening locomotive steel driving wheels

[Ruston]

This is probably a silly question but as it's not something I've ever done I'm not sure about it...

 

I have some chemical blackening solution that I have been using to blacken brass. It is actually intended for steel gun barrels etc. so I know it will blacken steel but the question is - if I blacken wheels does it affect how well they pickup/conduct the power; i.e. will it affect the running of the loco?

[sjp23480]

Ruston,

 

I have tried blackening wheels and valve gear the way you are contemplating but haven't found it very satisfactory. Perhaps I was doing it wrong?

 

Any how, I bought a selection of black Sharpie pens and use these to blacken things - much neater, the finish is more like recent rtr valve gear (to my eye) and it is really easy to do.

 

Steve

[The Johnster]

Also, don't forget you are not blackening steel, but nickel silver alloy, which may react differently.  I paint mine, leaving the rim bright where it contacts the rail, and find it a very worthwhile exercise which very considerably improves the look of locomotives, but I like Steve's Sharpie pen idea and may well do that in future.  A good way to apply the paint, or pen, is to have the chassis upside down and apply power to slowly turn the wheels; all you need to do is hold the brush or pen in position and the wheel will do the work for you, without you having to worry about touching up the bit you missed because the connecting rod or something was in the way.  I then paint the rods and valve gear, but not the slide bars, making sure that the top surface is covered as well as the face surface; it is only thin but will show up horribly if you leave it bright.  Don't worry too much about the bottom surface unless you have a lot of high embankments or bridges, and don't worry at all about the inside face which is better left alone.

 

Make sure you get a flat matt finish, and leave shininess for oil stains and grease when you are weathering.

[Ruston]

Also, don't forget you are not blackening steel, but nickel silver alloy, which may react differently.  I paint mine, leaving the rim bright where it contacts the rail, and find it a very worthwhile exercise which very considerably improves the look of locomotives, but I like Steve's Sharpie pen idea and may well do that in future.  A good way to apply the paint, or pen, is to have the chassis upside down and apply power to slowly turn the wheels; all you need to do is hold the brush or pen in position and the wheel will do the work for you, without you having to worry about touching up the bit you missed because the connecting rod or something was in the way.  I then paint the rods and valve gear, but not the slide bars, making sure that the top surface is covered as well as the face surface; it is only thin but will show up horribly if you leave it bright.  Don't worry too much about the bottom surface unless you have a lot of high embankments or bridges, and don't worry at all about the inside face which is better left alone.

 

Make sure you get a flat matt finish, and leave shininess for oil stains and grease when you are weathering.

The wheels in question are Alan Gibson wheels and I'm pretty sure they are steel rims. They are attracted to a magnet, anyway. They aren't on the loco yet as want to paint them before getting that far.

 

 

Ruston,

 

I have tried blackening wheels and valve gear the way you are contemplating but haven't found it very satisfactory. Perhaps I was doing it wrong?

 

Any how, I bought a selection of black Sharpie pens and use these to blacken things - much neater, the finish is more like recent rtr valve gear (to my eye) and it is really easy to do.

 

Steve

Does it work on the wheel treads?

[meil]

The wheels in question are Alan Gibson wheels and I'm pretty sure they are steel rims. They are attracted to a magnet, anyway. They aren't on the loco yet as want to paint them before getting that far.

 

 

 

Does it work on the wheel treads?

It blackens the steel, as you would expect. You then clean the wheel tread back to steel, as per the prototype. Edited July 5, 2018 by meil

[ROSSPOP]

Hi 

 

I`ve been blackening loco wheels in 4mm and now 7mm for years.

 

 

Providing you use quality products and clean wheels and anything else you want to blacken it is very successful.

 

Birchwood Casey Super Blue is best for steel wheels.

 

 

it will help if you use Electrofix as a final finish but not too much.

 

Chemical blackening does not  impede electrical  pickups at all.

 

 

John

[Sheffield]

I used some French made steel gun barrel blacking chemical and it certainly did create an insulating surface. Almost as good as the old Peco insulaxles in fact. I suggest trying a small area first.

[Quarryscapes]

I doesn't insulate completely but it does bump up the resistance. Make sure you buff it up once dried for a few hours, as it will form a dusty sooty deposit all over, and cleaning whilst wet can remove the actual blacked surface. 

[ROSSPOP]

I used some French made steel gun barrel blacking chemical and it certainly did create an insulating surface. Almost as good as the old Peco insulaxles in fact. I suggest trying a small area first.

 

I doesn't insulate completely but it does bump up the resistance. Make sure you buff it up once dried for a few hours, as it will form a dusty sooty deposit all over, and cleaning whilst wet can remove the actual blacked surface. 

 

I`m afraid both of these comments get a `total twaddle` from me........................................................

 

If you use the right quality products (and of course do it properly) there is no change in resistance or performance.

 

The first I ever did...................................................... 

 

 

 

 

and my very recent last loco kit.............................

 

 

...no change in Ammeter readings before or after......................

 

Cheers

 

Johnny Rosspop

[justin1985]

Resurrecting an old thread here, but I'm curious what people do after applying the blackening fluid? 

 

I've used both Birchwood Casey "Super blue" and Carr's "For Brass", but with both have noticed that most times (not every single time) an ash-coloured residue tends to form on blackened metals, especially steel wheels, sometimes many hours or days after blackening, even after washing. I've tried both rinsing under running water and running for several minutes in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with warm water. Sometimes it buffs off with a dry cotton bud, but sometimes I've had to resort to fibreglass brushing it off and then re-blackening. 

 

Am I going wrong here, perhaps in terms of using water? I tend to apply the blackener with a cotton bud, rinse in water for a good few minutes, then take off the worst of the moisture using paper and/or a dry cotton bud. Or is it just a case of being patient and persistent with buffing up afterwards? (what about hard to reach areas like between loco wheel spokes?)

 

I understand that traditionally you'd always buff up blackened metal with an oily rag etc - certainly my dad always does this when re-blacking his clay pigeon shooting shotguns. But on a loco wheel, for instance, I would have thought you'd want to avoid oil! 

 

Justin

[jdb82]

On 29/03/2019 at 22:13, justin1985 said:

Resurrecting an old thread here, but I'm curious what people do after applying the blackening fluid? 

 

I've used both Birchwood Casey "Super blue" and Carr's "For Brass", but with both have noticed that most times (not every single time) an ash-coloured residue tends to form on blackened metals, especially steel wheels, sometimes many hours or days after blackening, even after washing. I've tried both rinsing under running water and running for several minutes in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with warm water. Sometimes it buffs off with a dry cotton bud, but sometimes I've had to resort to fibreglass brushing it off and then re-blackening. 

 

Am I going wrong here, perhaps in terms of using water? I tend to apply the blackener with a cotton bud, rinse in water for a good few minutes, then take off the worst of the moisture using paper and/or a dry cotton bud. Or is it just a case of being patient and persistent with buffing up afterwards? (what about hard to reach areas like between loco wheel spokes?)

 

I understand that traditionally you'd always buff up blackened metal with an oily rag etc - certainly my dad always does this when re-blacking his clay pigeon shooting shotguns. But on a loco wheel, for instance, I would have thought you'd want to avoid oil! 

 

Justin

 

I'm just about to blacken wheels for the first time too, so I eagerly await any response to Justin's question above!

[woodyfox]

I always use blackening fluid on wheels, buffers and screw couplings. The key to success is very clean, grease free metal. 

I wear vinyl gloves for safety and to prevent my own natural skin oils transferring. I then scrub the subject with warm soapy water and then wipe over with a bud soaked in methylated spirit. I then dry off and apply the fluid using another bud. 

 

I then rinse in water and dry. I've not found any appreciable electrical resistance. I do 'buff' the wheel tread for purposes of appearance.