Peco Electrofrog Points for DC Layout

[RateTheFreight]

Morning all,

 

I'm building a small O gauge shunting layout on a door that will utilise Peco's 'Y' and medium radius Electrofrog points.

 

The layout will be DC operated.

 

Now for my basic question given my lack of wiring knowledge.

 

What would happen if I took the points out of the box, connected them to the rest of the powered track and tried to run trains? I'm not fussed about wiring the points to points motors as I like manually switching them (each to their own!) and I want to keep the layout as basic as possible.

 

I've tried looking at various things for electrofrogs on the net however most seems to be aimed at wiring for points motors or in relation to DCC.

 

Any help/advice greatly received.

 

Greg

[Dunsignalling]

They work straight out of the box, same as Insulfrog, but may need the odd insulated rail break and/or extra feed depending on track layout.

 

Unless contemplating a continuous run layout, you'll notice little or no difference. 

 

The requirements are concisely explained in the instruction leaflet that comes in the packet.

 

John

[RateTheFreight]

Thanks John, the plan is to use them on a basic inglenook shunting layout with three sidings and no continuous run.

 

Would I need to purchase insulated joiners (comments on the internet seemed to reference them)?

 

Greg

[Harlequin]

An inglenook arrangement shouldn't need any insulating joiners. Just plug it all together, straight "out of the box", with conducting joiners and connect a power feed at the "neck".

[RateTheFreight]

Thanks all; I thought it might be that simple but then confused myself!

 

One final question, with Electrofrog points, are all sidings always 'live'? For instance, on my inglenook if I had a spare siding for a second loco, would the siding it sat on be live if the road/points are set against it?

 

Greg

[Pete the Elaner]

 

I've tried looking at various things for electrofrogs on the net however most seems to be aimed at wiring for points motors or in relation to DCC.

 

They require exactly the same wiring. Wiring a point differently for DCC is complete nonsense.

The only difference is that a DCC system protects itself by cutting out as soon as a short is detected, so the effect of a short is very noticeable. DC gives you a spark & soldiers on. A short is bad for either system.

 

As for live sidings, both Insulfrog & Electrofrog isolate but achieve it differently.

 

With Insulfrog, one of the rails on the unselected siding is truly dead.

With Electrofrog, the unselected siding has the same polarity on both rails.

For a small shunting layout, this should not be a problem.

 

Once you start introducing crossovers & loops, Electrofrogs can cause shorts unless isolation is used.

The easy way to deal with them is to always isolate & re-feed. This also avoids the reliance on rail joiners for electrical continuity.

 

Unmodified Unifrogs do not isolate, but if you get into the habit of isolating & re-feeding, then this becomes irrelevant.

[RexAshton]

Thanks all; I thought it might be that simple but then confused myself!

 

One final question, with Electrofrog points, are all sidings always 'live'? For instance, on my inglenook if I had a spare siding for a second loco, would the siding it sat on be live if the road/points are set against it?

 

Greg

No. The points are self isolating so in yout example only the route set will be live.

[RateTheFreight]

Thanks all for the really helpful comments; once again RMWebbers have been an invaluable help.

 

Greg

[BR60103]

Greg

You will only really need insulated gaps/joiners if you have feeds coming from beyond the frog of the points. An inglenook won't need them unless you get carried away with extra feeders.