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RexAshton

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Everything posted by RexAshton

  1. Is it this one by any chance? https://www.dccsupplies.com/shop/class-66-n-motor/
  2. Will someone PLEASE get back to what the OP originally asked?
  3. The website is pretty clear as here. https://www.warrenshephard.com/GWR Locos/52XX1.htm
  4. Nothing stopping you make MJT ones rigid but your stock would run better with the compensation and they're easy to assemble.
  5. I've used the DGs for years with excellent results. I know you're working in 00 but 0 gauge ones are a better bet. Dimensionally they are the same as the 00 ones but are etched on slightly thicker brass. This means that the folds do not need reinforcing with solder - making them easier to chemically black (paint will gum them up). The extra thickness also improves the fit of the delay latch which on the 00 ones can drop down the side of the hook as it's quite a loose fit in its hole.
  6. Thanks Iain. I'll try that and see what happens.
  7. I agree. An email to your local club secretary would almost certainly get a reply.
  8. Thanks. I understand that and the brake function works fine using a Digitrax handset. usinf the Multimause the brakes don't release when I release F2 unless I press it a second time.What I want to do is change the F2 button from toggle function to intermittent if that makes sense.
  9. Thanks peterm. Do you you know how I would do that.
  10. Hi All Does anyone know if it possible to program the F2 button on a Roco Multimaus to use as an active brake button please.
  11. Maybe not but then neither are you helping the suppliers on which we all rely.
  12. Hi Does anyone know which (if any) of the solder pads on this can be used to attach a stay alive to via a Life Link or similar interface. Thanks.
  13. Hi Paul. I have several sets but will send you a list when I've fished them out. Good idea if it doesn't break copywrite.
  14. You may find that the EM wheels will foul the brake gear. With care it should be possible to remove the brake gear and reposition it. If not you'll have to carefully shave back the brake blocks until the wheel flanges clear them.
  15. If you have access to a vernier caliper I'd suggest measuring the gauge of the MPD at each end. If they are different it would suggest a faulty product. If that's the case, contact DCC Concepts direct - in my experience as a customer they are very helpful.
  16. Looking on the lner.info web page the trailing bogie looks similar to the Sentinel one. Nucast did a kit for one years ago but I don't know if anyone re-released it. If they did you might be able to obtain sideframe castings from them.
  17. Have a look at these from Dart Castings. https://www.dartcastings.co.uk/mjt/2550.php https://www.dartcastings.co.uk/mjt/2225.php
  18. Some years ago Parkside started moulding their chassis in ABS as its stronger. This would make MEK or Butanone more suitable but it appears that Peco now mould them in styrene so any decent solvent will work.
  19. Have you gone into cv29 and disabled everything you don't need, particularly DC running. It will make a noticeable difference. Also, are there external suppresser caps on the Tenshodo spud? If so get rid of them as the they will interfere with the decoders built ion suppresser. It might also be worth asking the question in the DCC forum.
  20. Thanks for that Iain but I can't get it to install.
  21. Hi everyone. Do any of you lovely people happen to have the software download for the DR4050? The site has gone along with Digikeijs (shame that) and a friend has one that needs reprogramming. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
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