chaz Posted December 28, 2018 Author Share Posted December 28, 2018 (edited) I'll look forward to that Chaz Steve. Thanks. Now do I do #7 (a 2-4-0 conversion from a Forney), #12 (a mogul), #29 (a 2-8-0) or #25 (a ten-wheeler)? - all Bachmann models. Maybe I should do them all! There is a lot to be said for making a start on several - attention can be switched from one to another during drying times. I will post photos here of the weathering process and on my FVRR topic once the models are in service. Exciting times! Chaz Edited January 4, 2019 by chaz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 (edited) Yesterday I decided to weather #7 - the 2-4-0 from a Forny. I have become very keen on using weathering powders and not so enthusiastic about airbrushing. Perversely the first task was to use my airbrush to spray the model with Valejo matte varnish to provide a key for the powders. I held a piece of card in front of parts I didn't want the varnish to touch (lamp lenses, the underframes (but too late for the window glazing which was misted with Dullcote some time ago). Today, with the acrylic matte varnish dry, I could get going with the weathering powders. I don't think I can usefully do a blow-by-blow account but a few pointers might be worthwhile. As before I do the work with powders on my Poundland baking tray. This will catch any excess powders, saving my clothing and the carpet and allowing leftovers to be recycled. It also acts as a palette. I use a variety of colours, black, smoke, dark earth, white, greys and rusts. I rarely apply powder straight from the jar - tapping the brush onto the tray first will dislodge a possible excess making the amount applied much more subtle. Should the colour still be too obvious I brush black or smoke powder over it which will blend and tone it down. I do brush some of the grimy mix lightly across the transfers to tone down the harsh white but this needs to be done with restraint. That last picture is of #7 switching a flat car at Stoke's Ferry on my FVRR layout. I'm not sure if it is quite finished (knowing when to stop is a tricky part of weathering) but it can go into service - and maybe get some further work later. Chaz Edited January 4, 2019 by chaz 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 Two things I noticed in the photos of #7 (cameras will always find anything dodgy on a model!) whoever coaled up the loco may have overdone it just a little one of support pillars of the uncoupler bar on the front pilot has come adrift - probably an over-enthusiastic brush - must pop it back in Next weathering job will be #12 - a mogul Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 Nice work Chaz, just shows what can be done with powders alone. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted March 7, 2019 Author Share Posted March 7, 2019 Earlier in this topic I was brush painting shiny plastic trucks (bogies) with Tamiya matte black. I have now discovered, and switched to, Vallejo Surface Primer for this job. It will flow better on the surface without any tendency to creep away from areas through surface tension and gives the same good matte finish. Chaz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium GW Jim Posted March 30, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 30, 2019 Chaz. I have dipped in and out of this topic and have found it so helpful, it's making a start on weathering that I find the key to weathering. Many thanks for all the time and effort you have put in, in showing us your 'system' I know it's very time consuming, so thanks again. Keep it up please, looking forward to more. Regards, James. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted March 30, 2019 Author Share Posted March 30, 2019 9 hours ago, GW Jim said: Chaz. I have dipped in and out of this topic and have found it so helpful, it's making a start on weathering that I find the key to weathering. Many thanks for all the time and effort you have put in, in showing us your 'system' I know it's very time consuming, so thanks again. Keep it up please, looking forward to more. Regards, James. I know what you mean James. I was once asked to put some light weathering on a 7mm model of an LMS "Crab". This was an immaculate model that had been professionally painted. I put it on my bench and then had to pause. However it had to be done - a totally spotless model is just not convincing. I'm not sure how much more I will be posting on RMweb. My 7mm layout, Dock Green, is to be sold (or broken up if I can't find a buyer) in the autumn so my future modelling will concentrate on my On30 American narrow gauge stuff. I have found that there is more of a following for this on Narrow Gauge Modelling Online. This is understandable but I don't think I want to keep topics on two forums going. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 On 07/03/2019 at 07:57, chaz said: Earlier in this topic I was brush painting shiny plastic trucks (bogies) with Tamiya matte black. I have now discovered, and switched to, Vallejo Surface Primer for this job. It will flow better on the surface without any tendency to creep away from areas through surface tension and gives the same good matte finish. Chaz I've seen a few things singing the praises of Vallejo surface primer, think I'll give it ago when I next get some primer. Thanks for all your weathering post's, it'll be a shame if you don't post too much, good luck with your On30 projects. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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