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Timber sandwich buffer beams


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Does anyone know what timber would have been used as the packer in steel / wood / steel buffer beams?

The buffer beams are 10" deep and the timber 5" thick.

The wood should have some cushioning effect so maybe not too hard.

 

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Thanks.

 

 

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Thanks Trevor and Paul.

 

I did even wonder about using unseasoned oak for expedience and cost - with the number of bolts holding it all together (24 each end!) I doubt it will move at all.

Would just need to protect the bolts from the corrosive tannin.

I can't see any grade of wood providing much in the way of cushioning - and we're not talking about banging coal wagons around at high speed!

 

Is it oak or ash for timber framed wagon buffer beams?

 

Tony

Edited by Osgood
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I was reading a thread recently on (Nat Pres?) regarding the corrosive effects of the tannin in oak on steel bolts.  Apparently the traditional way was to stick a red hot iron rod through the freshly drilled hole in the oak.  It seems that charring the wood prevented the bolts rusting. I would consult some of the traditional wagon/carriage restorers at one of the heritage railways.

Cheers,

Ray.

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That's a very brave way of slinging chains to lift that Fowler. Looking at the state of the wood and the fact the buffer beam stands above the running boards I would have thought it was the last place you would want to lift from!

 

Definitely seasoned Oak or at the very least a good hard wood. The Isle of Wight do a lot of carriage and wagon restorations so perhaps an enquiry to them regarding the effects of tannin on steel.

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Trying to recall fifty year old woodwork lessons. Brass screws used in oak. Ash is hardwood of choice for weather resistance and was extensively used for making frames for car bodies. Morgan still do. Timber supplies were different and my money would be on pitch pine or American red wood.

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That's a very brave way of slinging chains to lift that Fowler.

 

Well, that's professional crane hire companies for you!  

In all seriousness, Nigel - the 24 bolts clamping both beams together would allow you to lift 4 times the loco weight and still leave a good safety margin.

It was the safest way to do it.  The rear was slung the same but with a spreader bar above the cab roof.

 

Many thanks for all your replies - have gone for some (hopefully) reasonably well seasoned oak, just hope it doesn't shrink too much.

Interesting the use of hot poker to seal the holes - we'll go for a little oversize and plenty of paint on the new bolts as they are only plated.

Edited by Osgood
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