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Converting my 45xx to EM - Options?


Guest WM183
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Hello all!
 

It has been decided to do our 4mm modelling in EM gauge, and thusly a conversion pack for the Bachmann 45xx has been ordered from the EM Gauge society - I'd do a Pannier first, but those kits have been out of stock for a while. However, I know that an alternative to simply swapping wheels over and doing the EMGS type conversion, it is also possible to build a new chassis (Comet models in this case) for the loco. This also means buying an etched chassis, motor, and gearbox, which I don't mind i suppose, but it does add to the expense. What tends to get the best result? My 45xx is currently my best running loco, right even with a Kato RS3 i have. Would a compensated chassis make much difference? I suppose it would at least have proper bearings? I am also unsure about which motor and gearbox to go with for the comet chassis, as I am guessing I cannot reuse this odd Bachmann one. I suppose if i do need to build a new chassis I can sell the Bachmann one, but... unsure what to do.

Thanks much!

Amanda

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I will order my wheels for my pannier from AG, and the chassis kit / gearbox from High Level. Just now, as i already have wheels on the way for the 45xx, I'd like to do that one first, I think.

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Why EM rather than P4?  If you are buying wheels and making track it might as well be P4

 

PS: I would do the Pannier first as it would be easier than the 45XX because it does not have outside cylinders to worry about.  In EM you will have to be mindful of the clearance behind the cylinders.  However, High Level chassis kits are the more complicated 

Edited by Brassey
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Hi Brassey,

I think I want to do EM because the slightly more forgiving tolerances suit me better, particularly in the construction of pointwork. Perhaps sometime I will take the full leap to P4? 

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On 25/10/2019 at 11:16, WM183 said:

Hello all!
 

It has been decided to do our 4mm modelling in EM gauge, and thusly a conversion pack for the Bachmann 45xx has been ordered from the EM Gauge society - I'd do a Pannier first, but those kits have been out of stock for a while. However, I know that an alternative to simply swapping wheels over and doing the EMGS type conversion, it is also possible to build a new chassis (Comet models in this case) for the loco. This also means buying an etched chassis, motor, and gearbox, which I don't mind i suppose, but it does add to the expense. What tends to get the best result? My 45xx is currently my best running loco, right even with a Kato RS3 i have. Would a compensated chassis make much difference? I suppose it would at least have proper bearings? I am also unsure about which motor and gearbox to go with for the comet chassis, as I am guessing I cannot reuse this odd Bachmann one. I suppose if i do need to build a new chassis I can sell the Bachmann one, but... unsure what to do.

Thanks much!

Amanda

 

Amanda

 

As for which motor and gearbox combination, though if you are buying a High Level chassis I think the chassis come with gearboxes. Have a chat with Chris at High Level, I think he has sourced a replacement motor to the Mashima which is quite inexpensive. At Scaleforum I bought a coreless motor at a show special price of £25

 

The Comet pannier chassis is a simpler chassis to build. But the High Lever is a work of art (I bought one ready built)

 

I am not really into RTR locos but the newer type are far harder to repair, with a kit built chassis the chances are if something breaks/wears out they can be easily repaired/replaced. Certainly hornblock alignment jigs ae a must, thankfully very cheap, if you can borrow a chassis jig then its much simpler

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A replacement for Mashima motors is a godsend. I have a small stash of 1015 and 1020s that I am guarding like a dragon on a pile of gold! I will definitely get the high level kit for my panniers, but won't be able to get wheels for them for a while. Moving forward, I expect most of my locos will be kit built, but as I have this small lot now, I'd like to bring them to a nice standard.

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I have seen several articles showing conversions to EM by using washers to space out the longer wheel back to back from the 00 frames. Black plasticard frame profiles are then added, supported on strip to give the correct spacing and brake gear etc, reattached to these. I seem to recall one example where the brake cross beams were lengthened simply by squashing them.

As commented above clearance behind the crosshead will be an issue so minimal sideways movement of the front axle is desireable.  Pickup issues should be no different to 00 but track holding without some form of suspension may be, then again weren't Roy Jacksons Retford stock built with rigid chassis?

I should admit that I have not actually done this myself as I stuck with 00.

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Whilst I think the OP is using a set of drop in wheels I often wonder after reading several posts regarding the longevity of RTR mechanisms, whether using this method may be false economy, but I must own up to knowing little about modern & modernish RTR models (I like kit built models) or the simple to install conversion wheel packs.

 

I can understand the ease of simple conversions to diesel/electric and multiple units simply by pulling the wheelsets out, I have a Silver Fox Wagon basher railcar with a DC Models power unit which I have successfully converted to EM gauge with this method

 

Some while ago I bought second hand a Mainline Pannier tank and a Bachmann Jinty, both of which have etched chassis (in 00 gauge) The jinty has a Comet Coaches chassis with a 1015 openframe motor with a flywheel, it simply glides along the track. Both have no outside cylinders so no complicated motion, the main drawback in addition to building them is the cost which now must be close to £100 for an 0-6-0 loco.

 

I have also done a couple of simple conversions to K's locos which have Romford wheels, by changing the axles to EM and putting 40 thou plasticard sides to the chassis. They work but no where as good as a nicely made etched chassis with a modern motors and decent gearboxes, and of course do not have any brake gear.

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