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jhgtisca

Peco N-Gauge Setrack Point Springs Removal

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Newbie Question

 

DCC Concepts recommends that when using their Cobalt ip slow-action digital point motors that the point springs are removed. Can I still do this when using Peco N-Gauge Setrack points as I've seen in other forums that removing the spring compromises the structural integrity of the points?

 

thanks

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Hi,  

 

I only have Streamline code 55 points, not Setrack, but if they are anything like the current streamline design then yes, removing the spring will impact the structural integrity of the point.

 

Essentially the spring is pushing the tie bar/stretcher bar back towards the frog end of the point.

When the spring is released the bar can move forward and then the ridiculously fragile plastic clips on the tie bar that hold the switch blades break, thus out come the switch blades and your point is ruined.

 

However,  there is a little trick you can do to stop this.  If you are track laying, prep all the track and joins first to make sure everything fits, then immediately before you lay the point do this mod.

 

I can post a picture tomorrow, but essentially....

  • Take a piece of styrene square rod, something like 1.5mm squared.  Carefully put it between the tie bar and the little box that holds the other end of the spring in place.  Assess if it will fit - don’t force it.  1.5mm may be smidge too wide.
  • File styrene as required to make a fit - you have to judge each point individually as I found no two are ever the same.  ( Trust me, I’ve done 72 of these mods for my fiddleyard! )
  • Very carefully, holding tie bar still, but not exerting too much force on it or the switch blades, remove the spring  -  do this using a fine jewellers screwdriver and push one end of the spring out of the little box, not from the tie bar.  Once free of the box it will naturally come out of the tie bar.
  • Remove spring with fine tweezers.  Don’t force it, and don’t pick at the tie bar!
  •  Cut a piece of your styrene rod (filed for width already if needed) about 2/3 of the width of the little box the spring was in.
  • Very carefully hold styrene lengthways with fine tweezers and apply a tiny dot of superglue to one side only.
  • Insert into turnout and stick to the little box.  Be sparing with the glue, you want to stick the styrene strip to the little box only!

Now you should have a little bit of styrene stopping the tie bar moving forward.  Hey presto the switch blades can’t come loose now.

 

Don’t make the styrene a tight fit.  You’re looking to stop the tie bar moving forward, away from the frog, but still keep it free to slide sideways nice and freely.

 

It’s fiddly work, but does work a treat.

Picture tomorrow.

 

Paul.

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Morning,

 

As mentioned, a picture of the mod described previously.

Hopefully what i wrote makes sense with this.

 

IMG_0724.JPG.38d965d56bf685f542c864f468d56bab.JPG

 

 

Paul

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Hi Paul

 

Thanks for that. A clear explanation and a great picture. Now that I've decided to go with 55 rather than setrack I will certainly be trying this method.

 

John

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No problem,  glad it was useful.

 

You can, obviously, colour that plastic strip insert to match the trackwork, I just didn't bother here (pic above) as it is just a fiddle yard and not a scenic section.

Just remember to take you time, don't exert too much force, don't pick the spring out of the tie bar, and just generally be very careful and patient with it.  It will work, just take it steady.

 

I should add that on the switch blade/tie bar connection generally on the Peco 55 Streamline Electrofrogs I have used were all very fragile.  It is just a very fine pip of plastic holding those switch blades in place.  In fact, I did had some points arrive from the shop with switch blades already detatched from the tie bar.  Needless to say these went straight back to the shop!

 

 

Are you going for Electrofrog or Insulfrog points?

 

 

Paul

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