GWRswindon101 Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 So, for my layout, I have a very strange tracklan, and I have no choice but to scratchbuild the platforms, as I have tried Metcalfe kits, and they just don't work with the track. Does anyone have any suggestions of how to actually get started. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 You might try Scalescenes: https://scalescenes.com/product/r008-station-platform/ It has flexibility in the design. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HLT 0109 Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 Working in 00 and 009 gauges, I have always made my own platforms. Mine are made from wood as I feel they are (a) then robust and best able to survive my handling as I faff around getting them as close as possible to the track without the rolling stock fouling them and (b) platforms can be difficult to replace if they get damaged. If the platform is curved or an island, there can be quite a bit of faff achieving (b). The basic structure can be made of any offcuts of the appropriate thickness, laid either longitudenally (for a straight platform) or laterally (like a fan) for a curved platform. The appropriate thickness depends on what is to be used for the platform surface - in my case 3mm hardoard or MDF so, the thickness of the base would be 15mm if looking for a finished scale height of 3'6" from the cork. If the cork is only under the track and not over the whole baseboard, then the thicness of the base would be 18mm for the same finished height - ie about the thickness of builders' tile battens. This gives a good, solid fixing for the platform edge facing which in my case is usually embossed pastic card. This can then all be glued together with neat PVA or a contact adhesive. The finished height of a platform needs to be just below (1-2mm) the runniing board of the coaches (for UK prototype) although narrow gauge is likely to be different. Harold. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DK123GWR Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 (edited) An unconventional, but cheap solution is thick cardboard. Mine was from the box of a Wickes toilet (other sources of cardboard are available). It should hold its shape reasonably well, supports can be made from offcuts (glue or tape together three pieces and place your platform on top of them, or cut rectangles with slits in them to make x-shaped supports. Its easy to paint too! I'm not sure whether it's the most durable solution I'm sure that its not the most durable solution, but it may be a good placeholder to see how things look until you are happy enough with the layout to put something more hardwearing down. Edited April 20, 2020 by DK123GWR Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MalcT Posted April 21, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 21, 2020 I used 2mm grey board with small pieces for supports and glued brick paper and a platform surface to mine. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 (edited) Full size platforms are usually brick, stone or concrete walls with loose fill, rubble etc behind with paving slabs as a surface at least by the station building while asphalt or even gravel surface. If you have irregular platforms building the walls first maybe Peco platform edging, and infilling is a good way to proceed. I have used a cardboard honeycomb with card platform surface, useless it warps. Ditto with plasticard surface, useless it warps. 1/2" Solid wood, with hardboard surface, oK but too high and it doesn't warp but the baseboard does leaving gaps. Solid wood with plasticard surface and peco platform edging on a very solid baseboard, OK so far. The usual mistake is to make the platform too high. Its a step up into Network rail coaches. Max height is 3ft/ 12mm in OO above rail level Not target. Maximum. Many are much lower. Buffers are 3ft 5 1/2" nominal so the buffers shanks should be above platform height. Platforms too high dwarf the models, hide valve gear etc Edited April 21, 2020 by DavidCBroad Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DK123GWR Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 A similar diagram to the one above, with measurements adjusted for a variety of scales, can be found here: https://www.elginmodelrailwayclub.co.uk/2010/articles/advice/standard-railway-modelling-dimmensions.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cram Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 (edited) On Hawes (and a previous layout) I have used balsa wood with a thin ply top. Wills random stone walling was used to face and plasticard for the edging stones. Edited April 21, 2020 by Paul Cram added photo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 To find your platform edge clearance take your longest end / centre overhang bogie vehicle(s). Tape a sharp pencil to one side at the end. Place a thin card template (cereal packet) alongside the track and roll the vehicle past leaving a trace line. Obviously this will also leave a clearance the width of the pencil’s radius. Remember max overhang will depend on distance from pivot point at the ends (watch out fo 4-4-0 loco end swing) and vehicle width and distance between pivots for the inside curve clearance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted April 21, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 21, 2020 I wanted my station and platform to be the same level as the houses, roads etc behind so I wanted the use something large enough to cover the area. A sheet of MDF was the best thing I had to meet this. I used 12mm MDF topped with 5mm foamboard. My track is Peco Code 75 and the track sits on 2mm cork underlay so the height works out about right. The edges of the foamboard were routed to give it a lip for the over-hang. Note: The height of the platform from surface level is dependent on the depth of the track including thickness of sleepers and any underlay used. Platform walls were Slaters plasticard embossed stone strips glued to the MDF edge. Nails were used to hold it in place, with the support pillars placed over those to hide the nail heads. The platform surface was made using Anita Decor tree bark painted on, sanded down and weathered with various powders etc. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titanius Anglesmith Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 2 hours ago, ianLMS said: I wanted my station and platform to be the same level as the houses, roads etc behind so I wanted the use something large enough to cover the area. A sheet of MDF was the best thing I had to meet this. I think this is something often missed on model railways (including my own). Side platforms were often at ground level, with the track laid in a trench. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 Here are a couple of shots of the platform construction on out Marshalsea Street layout. Tops are 3mm MDF with the edges chamfered in the underside so you only see a thing adge. Covered with black thing card or Wet&Dry paper. Carshalton & Sutton MRC 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GWRswindon101 Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 18 minutes ago, dasatcopthorne said: Here are a couple of shots of the platform construction on out Marshalsea Street layout. Tops are 3mm MDF with the edges chamfered in the underside so you only see a thing adge. Covered with black thing card or Wet&Dry paper. Carshalton & Sutton MRC Thanks. i am going to try this, as it looks really good, and it sounds simple enough. What could possibly go wrong? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 (edited) 12 minutes ago, GWRswindon101 said: Thanks. i am going to try this, as it looks really good, and it sounds simple enough. What could possibly go wrong? Make sure you buy the correct height stripwood (and it is reasonably straight) calculating what size you need in conjunction with the topping material. Fix in position with panel pins while the glue dries. Lay the top on it and then lay the track up to it. I made a rough gauge from wood that fitted in the track and set the distance from the platform edge. Best of luck. Dave Smith Edited April 21, 2020 by dasatcopthorne Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
down the sdjr Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 I have started using plasticard and Slaters brick sheets, the thing i like about plasticard is its easily sanded to get the curves right, i also sand the ramp tops in for a smooth finish. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GWRswindon101 Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 2 hours ago, dasatcopthorne said: Make sure you buy the correct height stripwood (and it is reasonably straight) calculating what size you need in conjunction with the topping material. Fix in position with panel pins while the glue dries. Lay the top on it and then lay the track up to it. I made a rough gauge from wood that fitted in the track and set the distance from the platform edge. Best of luck. Dave Smith Thank you very much for your idea and your help. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TheQ Posted April 21, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 21, 2020 If you note " down the sjdr" platforms have a flat face, the requirement for the step in came later. So you need to check you get it right for wherever you are modelling. The main station I'm modelling was opened in 1882, with flat faced platforms, when the station was extended in 1901, the platform extensions had the step in. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
down the sdjr Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 48 minutes ago, TheQ said: If you note " down the sjdr" platforms have a flat face, the requirement for the step in came later. So you need to check you get it right for wherever you are modelling. The main station I'm modelling was opened in 1882, with flat faced platforms, when the station was extended in 1901, the platform extensions had the step in. I should have said, the station i am modelling opened in 1864, the 2nd platform not in the picture was added later and indeed has the step. Thank you, TheQ. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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