Point motor mounting - below track or baseboard

[ITG]

Hi, still working my way through various planning considerations, whilst awaiting delivery of Whiterose modular baseboards. I’m also ordering various components I will need, which is getting trickier as many suppliers are out of stock.

I am now pondering how best to mount point motors.

My soon-to-be-dismantled layout has used (largely) Gaugemaster PM10D DCC fitted, mounted attached directly to the underside of the Peco Streamline track. I found these worked well, and although one has to cut a sizeable hole in the baseboard for the point motor workings, it makes the fixing very precise - because it clips into the slots in the track.

 

So, do I repeat this, and thus make large holes in my pristine new baseboard? Or do I fix motors to underside of baseboard, which means a much smaller hole purely for the movement of the pin? This potentially makes alignment trickier, or does it? Are there any other pros or cons I haven’t thought of?

And an additional factor is that the pins which drive the tie bar will all now be too short, for under baseboard mounting. I know GM do sell replacement pins, in packs of 5, (most if not all places out of stock) but just wondering if one can buy longer lengths of this rod, and self-cut to size? Problem is, I can’t measure the diameter of said pin/rod as they’re all installed in current layout.

 

I could be patient and wait until I dismantle, and/or wait until GM packs are in stock again, but I’m trying to plan a (retired) work schedule for the new layout, and I’d prefer to avoid thumb twiddling whilst waiting for parts.

I suppose I’m hoping someone will throw in a factor (in response to this posting) which will help me decide (a) how to mount and (b) a source of rod if necessary. Or even just be patient!

 

 

[tomparryharry]

For me, it'll be below board. There are many ways to accomplish this. On my old shunting puzzle, I used Hammant & Morgan solenoids, and used a tube in wire system to throw the point over. Like your set-up, it was also very precise, being capable of very fine adjustment. The downside of the H&M motor, is that it has a larger throw off the crank than a 00 setup can take. In this case, it's either shorten the throw, or introduce some 'lost motion' to the operation. 

 

I must confess that I haven't tried the PM10 motor: It's not a fault I can see, it's just my perception of that big hole in almost plain view of the point. Like many others, I plan to try out some of those SG90 servos that have gained in popularity of late. There are some spot-on tutorials on 'Tube, and, in conjuction with the servo tails on 'Bay, I plan to give it a go.  

 

Here's the underside of my shunting plank, showing 2 of the four motors. It's not for everyone, but it works for me.

 

Best wishes,

Ian.

 

Edited May 25, 2020 by tomparryharry
Proof read, and punctuation adjustment.

[Smoggy]

I've recently used the Peco Twistlock motors, which I found very easy to install using the enclosed template which just requires 3 pilot holes drilling from the top. Pre wired as well which made connection even simpler.

[ITG]

I probably should have said that I don’t plan on ditching the 20+ Gaugemaster digital point motors I already have. The dilemma is do I install under track or under baseboard? And then the questions of pins/rods.

[Bernard Lamb]

You can re-use the existing motors by extending the pins using a DIY method for under base board mounting.

You need some wire of the same diameter as the existing pins and cut a length of suitable diameter brass tube to use as a splice.

Solder, if up to it, or Araldite will do the job.

Bernard