Rayray Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 (edited) I have had the wickham trolley for a while and was always wondering what could be done to modify into DCC without any "heavy" modifications on the plastic or the metal chassis. I bet some of you guys do not want to cut metal, drill holes or do any "heavy" works on it either, and probably just want to have it run on your DCC layout. *This will not work for any of you who wants to go for DCC-sound* Several month ago the Lokpilot V5 series was released and the lokpilot V5 micro was a perfect fit in size to the space underneath the trolley. The big coils and 2 other capacitors need to be removed, and the capacitor section of the PCB was chopped off using a model cutter. The decoder wires (4 in total, 2 for pickups and 2 for motor) were soldered to the original coil pads and it is ready to go. A picture for reference was attached here. A comparison AA battery was also included in the picture. Edited June 30, 2020 by Rayray 4 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opelsi Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 You spurred me on to have a go at mine today Ray! After changing my Rocket to 'Next18' for a neat fit in the barrel, I trust I might make a success of this too! Finger's crossed. Thanks again! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Watch the motor wires if you need to trim them, they too easily pull out of motor IME. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayray Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 6 hours ago, Butler Henderson said: Watch the motor wires if you need to trim them, they too easily pull out of motor IME. When I did the change, I am soldering the decoder to the pads of the coils (taken out, no need), so as to avoid doing things directly to the motor wires... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 (edited) 5 minutes ago, Rayray said: When I did the change, I am soldering the decoder to the pads of the coils (taken out, no need), so as to avoid doing things directly to the motor wires... Have another on order from Kernow seeing how cheap they flogging the yellow one so will bear that in mind. Did get a replacement motor but to date have not retackled it. Edited July 5, 2020 by Butler Henderson 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayray Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 1 hour ago, Butler Henderson said: Have another on order from Kernow seeing how cheap they flogging the yellow one so will bear that in mind. Did get a replacement motor but to date have not retackled it. As you might already find out that the original train car came with 2 coils. Each coil connects one side (rail) in series to the motor on the cargo vehicle. First you would need to chop the coils off and clear the soldering pads (if you have de-soldering braids that will be helpful). So the original connection is track A ~ Coil A ~ motor ~ Coil B ~ Track B. Now for your 4 wires, you would just sold the red and black wire to the track-side coil pads (please double check using a multi-meter) and the orange and grey to the coil motor sides pads. (Basically the left over two pads...) Direction does not matter, if reversed, just adjust CV29(+1). 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 2 hours ago, Rayray said: As you might already find out that the original train car came with 2 coil I completely removed the board - the decoder I used was slightly bigger 9x7 rather than 8x7 and I felt it needed the metal centre rod that holds the board in place removing. Have ordered the decoder you used. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayray Posted July 6, 2020 Author Share Posted July 6, 2020 On 05/07/2020 at 16:01, Butler Henderson said: I completely removed the board - the decoder I used was slightly bigger 9x7 rather than 8x7 and I felt it needed the metal centre rod that holds the board in place removing. Have ordered the decoder you used. Yeah I still used the metal rod (screw) to hold the PCB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgos Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 I just installed the lokpilot nano v5 decoder in my Wicham trolley. I choosed to put it under the roof. Unfortunately i realised that it is almost impossible to start it moving because the driving wheels are spinning on the track. Is there a solution to this problem? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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