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I have an old B Std Class 4  31-104 1980's.The piston slide has split in two. I want to remove the connecting rod but cannot determine whether it is a screw or a pin with a circlip. The head diameter is approximately 2mm. I attach a photo showing the problem area. The slide is to the left. I should much appreciate help. Thanks G

SAM_5052.JPG

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Although I have never owned one of these, it looks the same as the Bachmann split chassis A4/B1/V2, retained by a circlip. If it is to run with connecting rod removed, you will need a washer of similar dimensions to the 'big end' to keep the return crank retained.

 

I'd think very carefully about what you intend to do before removing the circlip, because sometimes these can be an absolute sod to restore - special consideration - while avoiding deranging the split axle wheelset in the struggle.

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Posted (edited)

Hi Geoff,

Before you do anything drastic Let me check my spares box. I thing I may have a spare steam chest with an intact slide bar.. As they only pop on to the sides of the chassis it would be easy to just replace the whole thing. From your picture it looks like the left hand side slide bar.

Edited by cypherman
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Posted (edited)

Hi again,

Geoff I do have a spare left hand cylinder block that is fully working. If you want it send me a message with your address and I will endeavour to get it posted out to you as soon as possible.

Edited by cypherman
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On 03/07/2020 at 16:36, Geoff Lewis said:

I have an old B Std Class 4  31-104 1980's.The piston slide has split in two. I want to remove the connecting rod but cannot determine whether it is a screw or a pin with a circlip. The head diameter is approximately 2mm. I attach a photo showing the problem area. The slide is to the left. I should much appreciate help. Thanks G

SAM_5052.JPG

 

The  Crankpin holding the Con rod etc in place is indeed a pin, interference fit,, but with a hex head 

( At least it is on my 2 !! ).

 

Easiest way is to gently prise it out using a small flat bladed screwdriver slid between the wheel and the rods, with the tip of the blade lodged up to the pin,  Work gently  and alternate either side of the pin. 

 

The outer coupling rod pins ( ie one on the LHS Driving wheel in the pic) , are hex head screws.

 

HTH

K

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