Peco Code 124 Point Spring Removal Question

[feanor]

I'm gathering track, locos, points, controller etc for a new O gauge layout after returning to the hobby after a 10 year break.

 

The layout will be using Cobalt IP digital motors and Peco code 124 points. Is it recommended to remove the point spring to enhance slow movment, and if so what is the best way to do this.

[Simond]

just looked at the photos on t'interweb

 

 

 

It appears that they might have changed, but assuming it is the same basic point as the last ones I modified, you lever up & remove the box thingy (which is not really even slightly prototypical) and you'll find a wee spring inside, shaped like a ring with two legs, which each have an angled end.  The ends are poked down through two very small holes, one in a timber and one in the tiebar.  This gives the click-click action.  You can just pull it out, vertically up.  I suggest that you superglue a bit of plasticard to the timber to prevent the tiebar moving away from the frog, and thus allowing the blades to detach from the fishplates in which they pivot. 

 

I'd try with your point motors before you make a decision.  I have used Tortoises and I did remove the springs, Cobalts may be different, and it might not be necessary.

 

There are some threads where folks have cut away all the unprototypical bits of the box area to make it look better, and it does, but if you're buying new points, you might not want to take a chisel to them.

 

Alternatively, consider building your track yourself.  There is a learning curve, and it does require soldering, filing and gluing, and time, but it is WAY cheaper and MUCH MORE satisfying!  Options are copperclad sleepers/timbers (Marcway and others) or wood sleepers/timbers and plastic chairs (C&L).  Having started with copperclad, my preference is now for the appearance that the C&L chairs and wooden sleepers can provide.  I only use PECO track where it isn't the main focus of the model, and PECO Points are for the fiddle yard.  Plenty of info on here about home made track.

 

And, you can build to 31.5 gauge, "0-MF" which will let you run any commercial 0-Fine model stock, which will not suffer flange drop as it will on normal 0F crossings (irrespective of manufacturer), and 0-MF looks better too.

 

HTH

Simon

 

[GeoffW]

Hi, I have just completed installing Cobalts on Peco points and have found it unnecessary to remove the over centre spring they work just fine.