Compensating rt models kits specifically the hudson hopper

[Simon Moore]

I'm curious as to how you compensate these kits for the finer gauges like em & p4 ? 

I've ten to make & I would like some form of compensation in them to go over rough track work etc.

 

From having a quick glance at the instructions I cannot see anything covering compensation.

 

How have you guys tackled it?

 

Cheers 

 

Si

Edited October 17, 2020 by Rhb Simon

[doilum]

2 hours ago, Rhb Simon said:

I'm curious as to how you compensate these kits for the finer gauges like em & p4 ? 

I've ten to make & I would like some form of compensation in them to go over rough track work etc.

 

From having a quick glance at the instructions I cannot see anything covering compensation.

 

How have you guys tackled it?

 

Cheers 

 

Si

Just remember that the prototypes could fall off the track faster than Scargill could call a strike! 

Good luck with this one, I shall follow with interest in case I ever get round to building another batch in 7mm.

[RexAshton]

Not one I've ever built but looking at the photo on the RT website I'd start by looking at the MJT units designed for converting RTR stock

[doilum]

On 17/10/2020 at 09:12, doilum said:

Just remember that the prototypes could fall off the track faster than Scargill could call a strike! 

Good luck with this one, I shall follow with interest in case I ever get round to building another batch in 7mm.

I went and had a look at my 7mm examples. They run in brass axle boxes with grooves to run in the slots in the frame. Not sure about 4mm but those with watchmaking skills might be able to fit some tiny springs. Adding hidden weight is probably equally important in the smaller scale.

[Simon Moore]

My thought is to open the bearing holes slightly & fit a piece of wire above the axle to create a knife edge so the axle can rock slightly. 

I'm going to investigate when I get some wheels for them.

[doilum]

16 minutes ago, Rhb Simon said:

My thought is to open the bearing holes slightly & fit a piece of wire above the axle to create a knife edge so the axle can rock slightly. 

I'm going to investigate when I get some wheels for them.

I guess the 4mm version has a different design. Perhaps an easy fit brass tube over the axles with some springy wire soldered to the top might do. You will have to cut the outer part of the axles off as per prototype. If doing a batch of ten there is scope to have a little fun with the wheels. Most had the ancient split spoke design but solid and three hole disc wheels were also common. At least one wagon should have a mismatched pair!

[Mark Forrest]

You've reminded me that I could probably use a few of these for my new layout.

Looking at the instructions on the RT website, it looks like the bearing is in a carrier separate to the chassis.   If that's the case, I'd try to elongate the holes in the chassis to allow the bearing carrier to slide up/down a little. Either that or replace the bearing carrier with a horn block designed for 2mm diameter axles.

 

That said, at 7'6" wheelbase I might be tempted to see how a rigid one runs first to see if it's worth the effort. 

[Simon Moore]

16 hours ago, Mark Forrest said:

You've reminded me that I could probably use a few of these for my new layout.

Looking at the instructions on the RT website, it looks like the bearing is in a carrier separate to the chassis.   If that's the case, I'd try to elongate the holes in the chassis to allow the bearing carrier to slide up/down a little. Either that or replace the bearing carrier with a horn block designed for 2mm diameter axles.

 

That said, at 7'6" wheelbase I might be tempted to see how a rigid one runs first to see if it's worth the effort. 

 

I shall have a go Mark with a rigid model & see how one goes. My other though was to just elongate the holes in an axle ever so slightly so it has a tiny bit of movement. 

In em this is no problem because of oversize flanges but P4 would be interesting especially as they are prototypical flange sizes