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Cold bluing example


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I posted a while back that I had purchased a cold bluing liquid. At that point I had only tried it on an old Hornby Pug, and I don't think the metal was very good. I have now tried it on a slightly better Fowler F4 by Airfix, and I like the results.
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Good tip, I bought some gun blue from our local sports-gun store last year only to find it only worked on very hot metal. Have you got a pasteable link to where you bought it from?

 

Edited by john new
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1 hour ago, john new said:

Good tip, I bought some gun blue from our local sports-gun store last year only to find it only worked on very hot metal. Have you got a pasteable link to where you bought it from?

 

Just off of eBay.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=phillips+cold+blue&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=phillips+cold+blue&_sop=15

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Some years ago* I bought some gun blue paste from Trago MIlls (usual disclaimer! I can't remember now if it was the Newton Abbot or Liskeard branch). It looked like the paste in the lowe rpart of the link, but I can't swear to the make though it was probably Phillips. It was 2 or 3 quid at the time. It worked well but has dried up over the years. As the name implies the resulting black is bluish. This is of no importance on a firearm, but not so desirable on a model.

 

* It must be early 21st century we moved away from Devon in 2008.

 

Take great care when using it. Is both corrosive and toxic.

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Sorry to a misery but judgeing from the pictures it doesn't look too different from the results I get from useing a black Sharpie felt tip pen ! 

It might be longer lasting but the sharpie touches up easy

of course the pictures might not be doing it justice and I don't do the wheel treads and flanges with the sharpie

Edited by Graham456
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