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Comet versus Hornby Hawksworth Coaches


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Rightly or wrongly was led to believe the standard aluminium roof supplied by Comet is more typical of a Mark 1.

 

 

I've also heard that the Comet roof section is based on Mk1 profile, which seems to suit most, although perhaps not all coach types.

 

When Comet started out with complete coach kits it was obvious that a standard roof profile was required. Back in those days the only supplier we could find who was interested (BKL Alloys) required that we purchase a 1/4 ton melt before they would extrude a bespoke section for us. This would give something in excess of 6,000 roof sections.

 

So it was decided to specify a section which was 0.5mm too low in the centre of the arc to be absolutely correct for pre-nationalisation types such as GWR, LMS and LNER and 0.5mm too high in the centre of the arc for BR Mk1s and Bulleids. Clearly to have had to put into stock two extrusion dies and 12,000 roof sections was a non-starter when the level of sales was unknowable.

 

Most people seem to have been happy with this compromise, though there are undoubtedly some with eyesight keen enough to spot a missing or excess 0.5mm in the centre of the roof at 3 feet viewing distance.

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As far as i know, no one produces etched sides for the Hawksworth Slip coaches, so it's time for a bit of a carve up. Using sections from spare Comet sides, i have made two sets, which i will probably complete using the regular Comet parts, rather than fitting to the Hornby shell. However the cab ends will have to be scratchbuilt. I fancy doing one as a Chocolate and Cream Slip, and for the sake of variety the other could be a de-fitted Slip in maroon, as at least one ran in the early 60s.

Comet supply their Hawksworth sides flat, which is fair enough, the real tumblehome is quite subtle. This makes cutting and re-joining easier, but rolling the slight tumblehome could be tricky with blobs of solder on the inside. For this reason i tack soldered on the outside, hence the soldering marks, which still need proper cleaning up. Having formed the tumblehome, i added reinforcing strips to the inside. The next stage will be adding door detail and handrails.

Cheers, Brian. (Sorry about the lousy image, i just shoved them in the photo-copier :) )

 

Apairofstrangeetchings.jpg

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Hello Brian

To answer you question “Do you put lights in your coaches?â€, very quick answer to the question is no.

 

To date have only built four Comet kits all Mark 1’s (RU, BSK, CK & BG), all as practice for a Mitchell Grange. Though as with any kit takes a lot of time and effort to make a truly convincing model which stands out, especially as the quality of ready to run models is always being lifted!

Though the coaches built from Comet parts by Rocar are a perfect example of what can be achieved.

 

Still have the BG at my parents which has a kadee No.5 coupling one end and a hook to attach to an engine with a working screw coupling at the other. The other coaches were sold on.

 

The painting side of things is not my strongest point, to pay £60-100 for a professional paint job for a coach is a little off putting. Though currently have five Comet Mark1 kits to do but am more tempted to build a couple of the GW 70’ vehicles, Your H.27 Restaurant car looks great.

 

Reminds me of a picture in the book Rail Trails: South West, taken in July 1959 it is of 6845 Paviland Grange heading the 12.05pm FO empty diners into Cornwall, five GW restaurant cars sandwiched between a Mk.1 BSK and BG. The fifth vehicle is a 70’.

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A few more pics of coaches i've built from Comet kits.

First photo, no the CK Composite isn't in for scrapping, it was just having it's bogies swapped. It does show us the Comet style of chassis, with the fold down angle truss (well only the outside ones). No flashy compensated couplings here, like on the Hornby. However, it builds up to a nice rigid chassis, unlike the new Hornbys, which do seem to suffer from distorted underframes, in some cases. Comet bodies are held on by a screw either end, the Hornby have six plastic clips, which i'm not too keen on. The white showing, is where i've stuck a plasticard floor above, after i'd finished spraying the chassis. Second pic shows it back together again.

Third and fourth pics. This is the FK (Corridor First) type, the one that got away and Hornby didn't do. There were only twenty odd of these, so perhaps it's just as well.

 

HawksworthCorridorCoaches111.jpg

HawksworthCorridorCoaches116.jpg

HawksworthCorridorCoaches124.jpg

HawksworthCorridorCoaches129.jpg

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......I was successfully removing glazing from a Hornby model this evening but the centre section was well and truly stuck and I managed to damage the 'tumblehome'. .....

 

 

Phew at least I know I'm not the only one - and an appropriate warning for anyone else removing the glazing units. Mine removed easily except on one side smack in the centre at the bottom there was one spot of deeply embedded glue - removal of which magically created a small sink hole on the other side..... Fortunately it's small enough and clear of any detail to be repaired by a judicious bit of filling however a heart sinking moment all the same!

 

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Hi Bob, Craig, Larry and all,

Yes as Craig says the droplights are separate on the Hawksworths. However, you'll probably remember that some of the earlier Comet etches have etched-in droplights, some closed, some open. I believe most customers preferred the separate option, so they can mount them how they want.

I sympathise with the damaged sides, the bodyshell is quite a thin and delicate moulding and can be very easily pinched. The worst glazing to remove, that i ever found, were the Lima-build of Met-Cam DMUs. The Italian ladies in the Lima factory had used lashings of tough glue all over the place. I got most of it out, a few bits got cracked, a few windows just wouldn't budge and had to be masked off instead.

Larry, you're not thinking the unthinkable, since i've been chopping chunks of sides out of Hornby donors, i've ended up with roof and end carcasses, perfect candidates for spare Comet sides.

No Hawksworth Slips for years, then suddenly two plastic and two etched brass ones are on the go at once. Sounds like red buses.

Cheers, Brian.

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..........No flashy compensated couplings here, like on the Hornby. However, it builds up to a nice rigid chassis, unlike the new Hornbys, which do seem to suffer from distorted underframes, in some cases.

 

Any thoughts on how to stiffen up the Hornby underframe Brian? Thank goodness at least Bachmann still use their modular and somewhat side-stiffening sides smile.gif

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Any thoughts on how to stiffen up the Hornby underframe Brian? Thank goodness at least Bachmann still use their modular and somewhat side-stiffening sides smile.gif

 

Hi Bob,

The distorted underframes are a bit disappointing, i've tried straightening a couple, i suppose it's caused by the clip fittings and the tight fit inside the body. I might shave a bit off the ends of the chassis to ease the fit. I think the easiest way to reinforce the underframe, would be to glue the rigid interior to it ?

Oh, hang on, you've got a BG with no interior. Ummm, looks like it's back to the drawing board ! :) Strips of angled brass affixed perhaps ?

Cheers, Brian.

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