Guest jonte Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 The last of the three boards requiring the fitting of service hatches. Removeable hinge pins replace the originals, allowing each board to be secured to its neighbour - centre boards have hinges supplemented with bolts between the frames of each adjoining board. Jonte Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonte Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 All four boards seen fastened together for the first time Replacement hinge pins in situ. Traverser has been removed to ease the lifting of the three scenic boards onto supports. Pelmet supports have been replaced and pelmets temporarily located to await drilling and fastening tomorrow, all being well. Jonte Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 Ah - now I see what goes where - but what are the piano-hinged flaps for? Access to the interior for switch-motors? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonte Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 Ah - now I see what goes where - but what are the piano-hinged flaps for? Access to the interior for switch-motors? Hi Jack. Essentially, they're to finish off the rears of two of the three scenic boards which I'd left open when I built them. The third, built later from bits of old ply, was of closed construction and required an opening for access to electrics etc. Immediately behind the flaps I intend to fix electrical tags to which will be soldered current carrying wires. I don't intend to use elctric motors to switch the points; thought I'd give Kurt's mechanical point switching a go, from Big Blue, based on the Bull Frog system. Had already salvaged some ball bearings from an old bicyle wheel, itself salvaged from a friend's skip, and drilled out a steel bracket ready for fitting when I decided to scrap the original trackage and extend the width of the boards. If this proves difficult in the space available, I'll go back to Mercontrol which I'd had some success with on the original trackage. Thanks for your interest. Jonte Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 Jonte - if you still have the wheel - salvage the spokes and nipples - I'll put up a photo this afrternoon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 As promised - this is how I am operating the turnouts on the current build - if you can't find an old wheel visit your local cycle shop - I use two spokes so that thenipples can be screwed to font or rear for best operating position - these are still basic and unpainted. Please ignore stray bit of hot glue in picture 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonte Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 As promised - this is how I am operating the turnouts on the current build - if you can't find an old wheel visit your local cycle shop - I use two spokes so that thenipples can be screwed to font or rear for best operating position - these are still basic and unpainted. Please ignore stray bit of hot glue in picture 2 Most ingenious, Jack - looks quite simple too. Funnily enough, I've kept the wheel, spokes and all the ball bearings just in case Kurt's idea was a 'go-er'. How do you manage to keep the switch rails held against their respective stock rails? Currently, I'm thinking of using my home made points (unsprung), if not, I'll opt for Peco Code 83 but with the springs removed like my code 75s. Thanks for sharing, Jack - I think even I could manage to buid these. Best wishes, Jonte Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 Jonte - the internal spring in the Peco turnouts holds them in position - the alternative is to hot glue one of the connectors to a block fixed in line with the spoke, and run the spoke through it - tightening the screws down just enough to provide stiffness in the action. You can also use those connectors to operate a micro-switch for frog powering Best Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcoRS1 Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 I have used small switches to hold the points in place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonte Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 Hi All, Just a few more photos of my progress over the last couple of days: Guides and endstops fitted adjacent to and at ends of pelmet supports to ensure correct placement of pelmet each time every time. Pelmet has now been bolted to supports from above. Splice plates made from ply form flanges attached top and bottom of pelmet and slide fit one inside another to ensure that each half of the pelmet is level with the other. Started to fit fascia to pelmet; lower splice plate can be seen. Striations corrugate the rear of the lower fascia piece to ensure the ply bends around the curved parts without splintering (this has to be done 'cross-grained' otherwise the wood will splinter, despite corrugations). Corrugations made with a tenon saw. In one of the following photos,you can see where I got a little over eager with the saw and the striations are visible from the front. These will be filled later. Tomorrow, I'll finish decorating the fascia of the pelmet and then disassemble the whole darned thing to fill screw and pin holes and sand finish. The pelmet can prepared for fitting of directional downlighters and battons fitted across main frames to assist siting of trestles when re erected. The boards and pelmet can then be undercoated and painted before reassembly in my railway room. The lights will then be fitted and wired. Modelling can the resume. Thanks for reading, Jonte. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonte Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 As a postscript, this little lady arrived today all the way from the good old US of A. Six days from purchase to delivery is an excellent service considering the distance, as far as I'm concerned. Well done. Sorry about the poor quality of the photos: She's pictured astride one of my handbuilt points. She looks so much better in the flesh than in pictures - her lines are not as chunky. However, was a little disappointed with her running qualities. I feed in the power, then there's a delay, then a buzzing, then a start followed by a stop before picking up again and moving off with a slight increase in speed. At higher speed she's fine, but as she's essentially a switcher, I need her to crawl along at a consistent speed. The noise doesn't bother me. She's certainly not as quiet or smooth as my Cheapo Bachmann. I don't know too much about these things, however, according to the previous owner she's never been used so perhaps she needs running in? Your thoughts and experiences as to how to rectify would be appreciated. As you're probably aware from my previous post, I intend to dress her in LAJ colours, and since stripping a loco for a new coat of paint is something else on my long list of "no idea how to do this", I should especially appreciate some instruction on this - I believe it has to be dipped/soaked in some sort of substance to remove the paint? No rush on this one - loads more to do before I reach this stage Finally, here's one of my point on its own - just realised there's a tie missing! Best wishes, Jonte Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 Is it digital? If so, apparently if the chip is set so it can run on both DC and DCC that can make the motor buzz; the CV needs changing to DCC only; but don't ask me how to do this!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonte Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 Jonte - the internal spring in the Peco turnouts holds them in position - the alternative is to hot glue one of the connectors to a block fixed in line with the spoke, and run the spoke through it - tightening the screws down just enough to provide stiffness in the action. You can also use those connectors to operate a micro-switch for frog powering Best Jack I see, a friction fit. Thanks Jack. Jonte Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonte Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 I have used small switches to hold the points in place. Thanks, AlcoRS1. Jonte Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonte Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 Is it digital? If so, apparently if the chip is set so it can run on both DC and DCC that can make the motor buzz; the CV needs changing to DCC only; but don't ask me how to do this!! Hi F-UnitMad. Nothing so extravagant I'm afraid - just about coping with DC!! Apparently, the original owner bought it thinking it was DCC prepared. When he discovered it wasn't, it was put up for auction; that's how I know it's just DC. Thanks for getting in touch anyway. Best wishes, Jonte Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcoRS1 Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 nice looking Alco. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 Most shortline/industrial/sidings turnouts in the 'States look more like this:http://www.bdrry.com/2010%20Track%20A%20Turnout%20RFP%201002.pdf Nearly every single turnout over here has what I call jointed blades (more like model track than the British turnouts). Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWB Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 Regarding paint stripping, I've heard many, many ideas and tried some. PineSol cleaner (not sure if this is a UK brand) is one possibility, or "green" de-greasers I've also heard will work. If they don't work, automobile brake fluid is a fairly sure bet, but it's messy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonte Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 Most shortline/industrial/sidings turnouts in the 'States look more like this:http://www.bdrry.com/2010%20Track%20A%20Turnout%20RFP%201002.pdf Nearly every single turnout over here has what I call jointed blades (more like model track than the British turnouts). Best, Pete. Oh dear; things are not looking too good for my home manufactured iron roads. Jonte Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 Just go ahead, Jonte - print this and carry it in your wallet - and if anyone queries it - just show it to them Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 Quite right too! You can certainly tell me where to get off......we only offer advice. Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alastairq Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 Hi, Jonte, I like your home-built turnout.... if hinged switch rails really bother you, then simply cut through your existing switch rails, and insert half a rail joiner on each. I have lots of photos of US turnouts....but mostly pre-WW2, and they seem to not have hinged switch rails, so I guess one takes one's choice on this one? [mind, I have some that show no check rails either.....cast crossings I believe?] try running the Alco in for a while....what DC controller are you using? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alastairq Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 Jonte...in another thread [fread in USian] I mentioned OO SF..or whatever it's called....which essentially uses a gauge of 16.2mm, ??? Since you are constructing [very ably] your own turnouts/switches/points/P&C work....these standards would solve your issue regarding check rails and crossing vees....with....as I mentioned in the other thread [fread]...the advantage of accepting..amongst others, NMRA wheel standards.. As I said before, plain trackwork can be whatever you want...flexi, home-made, whatever...and to 16.5mm gauge..with just the turnouts at 16.2mm gauge. Have you tried/looked at SHinohara track and turnouts? I don't really know whether it's as easily available in the YuK as it used to be...probably better to buy 2nd hand [pre-loved in USian?} but they are 'live' at the frog/crossing...[why does the google spellchecker keep telling me I should be typing 'crossant' for 'crossing?'] I haven't really caught iup with this particular thread.sorry...so got all excited over CF7's....and the fact I have...somewhere, the original article and drawings when they were first produced....MR or RMC or Some-such...excited, that is, until I read Sir RAy's post concerning the Athearn model, of which I had no knowledge... Oh how out-of-touch I have become.....to discover that Athearn has motor troubles of old...mine all worked well....simply made the streetlights dim when double-heading. [i have a SW switcher with Ernst gearing.....kept taking out buffer stops...[sorry..track bumpers]] Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 How do you manage to keep the switch rails held against their respective stock rails? Currently, I'm thinking of using my home made points (unsprung), if not, I'll opt for Peco Code 83 but with the springs removed like my code 75s. Jonte - see the second photo down on this page for another answer to the question http://www.frankenmodell.de/xstreetjun10.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alastairq Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 The old Gem levers[the screw-action type]..[or were they Wrenn?] provided positive location... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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