richbrummitt Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 GWR Loriot D/E Lowmac (BR 2/241) Was this GWR diagram G18? If not what diagrams can be made directly from the kit? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 Was this GWR diagram G18? If not what diagrams can be made directly from the kit? G1, G2, G14, G18, G20 and BR 2-241 can all be built from the kit. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crosland Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 (edited) After some comments on here about etched loco chassis being easy to distort by twisting - with which I agree as I have a Fencehouses J72 chassis in the same state - I realised it should be easy enough to make the frames up from two layers of etch as a sandwich to make them more robust. Using the narrower type of Association PCB spacer (6.4mm as opposed to 7mm) works nicely in combination. The J39 and Black 5 will now have this design, and I am testing out some extra parts for the already existing chassis. Chris I have been building Nigel Higg's Hunt's 2-4-2T kit and found that to produce a much better chassis (in my hands) than the association Jinty replacement chassis that was my last project. A good deal of this may be down to my gaining experience on the Jinty chassis but I think the number of spacers also contributes to the overall stiffness. Some of the spacers in some of the association chassis are vertical and offer no longitudinal stiffness. I have also decided that I prefer the separate motor mount to the fold up gear box. I struggled to mount the motor and get a satisfactory mesh with the Jinty chassis, which also makes no provision for restraining the motor. With the separate fold up motor mount (designed for the association flat can and its fixing screws) it's easy to adjust the motor position with shims between the mount and the spacer to which it fits. I understand the association kits are designed to be easy to assemble but the chassis workshop was based on the Raithby 4F kit which someone commented is "not recommended for beginners". Again i found that chassis (my first 2mm) to be reasonably straightforward. I do intend to have another go at an association chassis, to see how much of the variation in my results is down to growing experience, and how much is down to the design of the kit. Andrew Edited August 28, 2014 by Crosland Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted August 28, 2014 Author Share Posted August 28, 2014 I have been building Nigel Higg's 2-4-2T kit and found that to produce a much better chassis (in my hands) than the association Jinty replacement chassis that was my last project. A good deal of this may be down to my gaining experience on the Jinty chassis but I think the number of spacers also contributes to the overall stiffness. Some of the spacers in some of the association chassis are vertical and offer no longitudinal stiffness. I have also decided that I prefer the separate motor mount to the fold up gear box. I struggled to mount the motor and get a satisfactory mesh with the Jinty chassis, which also makes no provision for restraining the motor. With the separate fold up motor mount (designed for the association flat can and its fixing screws) it's easy to adjust the motor position with shims between the mount and the spacer to which it fits. I understand the association kits are designed to be easy to assemble but the chassis workshop was based on the Raithby 4F kit which someone commented is "not recommended for beginners". Again i found that chassis (my first 2mm) to be reasonably straightforward. I do intend to have another go at an association chassis, to see how much of the variation in my results is down to growing experience, and how much is down to the design of the kit. Andrew You are of course allowed to put as many spacers as you wish onto the Association chassis and in whatever positions you choose. Or indeed build it with the Raithby/Hunt style metal spacers (I believe Nigel sells a small etch of these for general use). As Bob Jones comments in his kit instructions, you are the CME. Removing the gearbox altogether requires a bit more surgery, but in the end boils down to one cut. The new kits I am working on (Black 5, M7 and Terrier) come without gearbox, although I must admit that is mostly down to the fact for various reasons it cannot be used in any of them. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted September 2, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 2, 2014 The M7 and Terrier are also almost done now, just need a bunch of another stuff to fill up another test sheet. Chris Hi Chris, Which motor had you planned on using for the Terrier? David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 Hi Chris, Which motor had you planned on using for the Terrier? David I didn't relally have a specific plan. But I believe I made provision for something the same size as the Dapol motor in the Terrier, so that or something smaller. The frames could also be used to convert the Dapol chassis in the manner described in the 2mm Magazine. I did actually get the M7 and Terrier etches done, and onto a test sheet, so it might just be ready sometime after Christmas. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 I didn't relally have a specific plan. But I believe I made provision for something the same size as the Dapol motor in the Terrier, so that or something smaller. The frames could also be used to convert the Dapol chassis in the manner described in the 2mm Magazine. I did actually get the M7 and Terrier etches done, and onto a test sheet, so it might just be ready sometime after Christmas. Chris The motor has a maximum height of 6mm. SO a 6mm diamter coreless will go in, or something 6mm high and can be a bit wider to fit inside the tanks Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crosland Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 You are of course allowed to put as many spacers as you wish onto the Association chassis and in whatever positions you choose. Or indeed build it with the Raithby/Hunt style metal spacers (I believe Nigel sells a small etch of these for general use). As Bob Jones comments in his kit instructions, you are the CME. Thanks for the comments. I think I have realised one of my problems with my early attempts. The wire I used for the simpson springs was way too stiff and gave no benefit. For some reason i had it in my head to use 0.3mm phosphor bronze. Either a re-work or another association chassis kit is next on the to-do list Andrew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted November 25, 2014 Author Share Posted November 25, 2014 I didn't relally have a specific plan. But I believe I made provision for something the same size as the Dapol motor in the Terrier, so that or something smaller. The frames could also be used to convert the Dapol chassis in the manner described in the 2mm Magazine. I did actually get the M7 and Terrier etches done, and onto a test sheet, so it might just be ready sometime after Christmas. Chris The M7, Terrier, J39 and Black 5 test etches are almost with me. Sat in a TNT depot according to the website. I will put up some photos of the etches when they get delivered. Chris 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 The M7, Terrier, J39 and Black 5 test etches are almost with me. Sat in a TNT depot according to the website. I will put up some photos of the etches when they get delivered. Chris Chris, Slightly OT for this thread, but is there any news on the NPCS/wagon chassis etches? Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted November 25, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 25, 2014 The M7, Terrier, J39 and Black 5 test etches are almost with me. Sat in a TNT depot according to the website. I will put up some photos of the etches when they get delivered. Chris i will try again with the M7 and terrier chassis who knows I may get one to run although I have fixed my Dapol Pannier Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 25, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 25, 2014 Will the chassis be in the Shop or do we order from you Chris Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 Chris, Slightly OT for this thread, but is there any news on the NPCS/wagon chassis etches? Andy Amended test bits on the same test sheet. Plus an extra new underframe - 12' wheelbase version to use with the Dapol Grain hooper body. Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 Will the chassis be in the Shop or do we order from you Chris Don Not yet decided. Got to prove they build OK first. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 27, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 27, 2014 Not yet decided. Got to prove they build OK first. Chris Thanks Chris I need both a Terrier and an M7 wicheverway. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share Posted December 22, 2014 (edited) I have been doing some 3D CAD experimentation with loco chassis and have come up with the attached design for the Farish 57XX Pannier. Basically the larger of the two blocks will be 3D printed in steel, and the thinner one is plastic and plugged into it. Onto this are applied the existing etched sideframes from the Association kit with bearings soldered in. This allows for reuse of the brakeblocks, rodding and coupling rods. I have been noting the reports of good running with such a heavy block design, but put off by the need to have a milling machine, plus complicated ways of joining the two halves together whilst retaining a split-frame design. Of course, Simpson springs are no longer possible with this design. Still work to do with motor mounts and the like. Chris Edited December 22, 2014 by Chris Higgs 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 Hi Chris, In my opinion, this approach will be a big step ahead and I'm looking forward to replace the chassis for my Hunslet Austerity 0-6-0ST. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modfather Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 Chris - is there any chance work on a replacement chassis could be aimed at the better Dapol model please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim V Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 I've looked at the Dapol pannier carefully, and have to say that although it's a very fine model, it's possibility of being converted is very difficult. The motor is shoe-horned into the panniers for example. I'm thinking of using more of the Farish panniers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share Posted December 22, 2014 (edited) Chris - is there any chance work on a replacement chassis could be aimed at the better Dapol model please? At the moment, I am thinking of using a similar approach of using the etched sideframes and bearings but retaining the original Dapol chassis block, gears and motor. I have some 3D printed gears on muffs for this drawn for me by Ian Morgan. My new-found proficiency in 3D printing is also making me think again about other approaches. Chris Edited December 23, 2014 by Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted December 26, 2014 Author Share Posted December 26, 2014 (edited) Got to prove they build OK first. Chris I managed today to get a number of the etches built. First to good news. The J39 and the Terrier are fine. And the concept of using double thickness laminated frames works great and produces a much more rigid result. Now to the not so good news. The M7 I will have to rework as although I had designed it OK to 1:148 scale I had not really appreciated just how many dimensional liberties Dapol had taken with their M7. So I have in effect decided to treat their model as being to 2mm scale (1:152 not 1:148) but with the smokebox extending too far forward. That way the front axle matches the position of the splasher. The body is also far too wide for an M7 but that has no effect on the chassis. No idea why Dapol did that as there is a tiny motor inside with acres of space. Still the Black 5 to do, plus the NPCS reworks. Chris Edited December 26, 2014 by Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin1985 Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Great news on the J39 and Terrier - I'd like both! Have you decided whether they will be available from the Association shop or direct from yourself? Justin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 Great news on the J39 and Terrier - I'd like both! Have you decided whether they will be available from the Association shop or direct from yourself? Justin They will be in the shop, as will the NPCS and the new etched bufferstops. Chris 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted April 2, 2015 Author Share Posted April 2, 2015 (edited) Latest update. J39, Terrier and Black 5 production etches ordered a few weeks ago and will be in the Associaition shop in a month or two. M7 has been redesigned and will be on the next test etch, where I hope the following will also be present - currently I am in the last throes of finishing the artwork GWR 2-cylinder 4-6-0. Which will include all parts to build an etched chassis for Saint, Hall, Grange, Manor or County - the main differences being the brakeblocks and in the case of the Saint the coupling rods. GWR 61XX 2-6-2T (hence my interest in the radial axles thread). As all the ancilliary parts for a 43XX are the same as a 61XX I may do some frames for that as well. GWR 28XX 2-8-0 GWR 44XX 2-6-2T - this is very specialised so I'll only be doing a handful. There is at least one 44XX for which the Dapol 4500 body can be used unmodified. I forget which but it had curved front footplate drop and extended bunker. The rest all need some mods in one area or another. I am also still plodding on with looking at producing 3D printed functional chassis inserts for these and my other chassis, so they can enjoy some of the weight and solidity benefits of the CNC milled chassis seen about the place. Chris Edited April 2, 2015 by Chris Higgs 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Any news on the NPCS etches, Chris? Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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