Chris Higgs Posted August 31, 2012 Author Share Posted August 31, 2012 (edited) Thank you! I followed your advice and, after only about 20' of work, both rods were fitted to the wheels which are spinning very smoothly. I am very pleased, this is my first try in wheels quartering and it looks like it is not a complicated process at all. Quartering is one of those things where it can go together no problem one day, but the next time you try you get all sorts of niggles. I assume you know you have the coupling rods on upside down? Chris Edited August 31, 2012 by Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 [...] I assume you know you have the coupling rods on upside down? Chris Thank you, Chris. No, I didn't know they are upside down. I didn't assume they are correctly positioned either. Definitely I'll check photographs and plans before fitting them permanently. Until then, I have to study about painting Ni-Ag. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Yes, you need to swap the coupling rods from one side to the other. As regards painting a good etched primer will see you right. I use this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-Aerosol-Acid-Etch-Primer-Galvanised-Steel-Aluminium-/300377733663?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Paint_Varnish_MJ&hash=item45efe87a1f#ht_1002wt_922 now after other people recommended it on a thread on here. It is reasonably priced and seems to do the business. I've had no problem over painting it with acrylics. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
oily Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Can I ask a question about the etched chassis for a pannier please. I'm not sure where or which thread to ask about it but here seems a possible place. I've just started in 2mm and would like to make an N gauge pannier look a bit more realistic and I'm sure I saw a discussion and some photographs of this having been done. I've found some information in this thread plus some elsewhere from Missy and Rich Brummitt under "double heading" that's mainly about the etched chassis although missy's seems to have done more what I had in mind about but I was convinced I'd seen even more recent information and in particular photos of scratchbuilt footplates with splashers and other detail added to cut away Farish bodies. Maybe I dreamed it or it on some other website but Googling hasn't revealed anything more. Does anyone know if it was for real. I'd really like to know more about doing something like this myself so any help appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted September 1, 2012 Author Share Posted September 1, 2012 Can I ask a question about the etched chassis for a pannier please. I'm not sure where or which thread to ask about it but here seems a possible place. I've just started in 2mm and would like to make an N gauge pannier look a bit more realistic and I'm sure I saw a discussion and some photographs of this having been done. I've found some information in this thread plus some elsewhere from Missy and Rich Brummitt under "double heading" that's mainly about the etched chassis although missy's seems to have done more what I had in mind about but I was convinced I'd seen even more recent information and in particular photos of scratchbuilt footplates with splashers and other detail added to cut away Farish bodies. Maybe I dreamed it or it on some other website but Googling hasn't revealed anything more. Does anyone know if it was for real. I'd really like to know more about doing something like this myself so any help appreciated. Yes there is a thread about that (forgotten where). But my advice is to wait for the new Dapol Pannier (due out next week if Dapol are to be believed). It will I hope be a better loco, and if enhancement is still needed, will be a whole lot easier to work with it's plastic body. Once I get my hands on one I will be reviewing what if anything needs doing to the etched chassis to use it with the Dapol body (both centre and rear axle drive versions). Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 Can I ask a question about the etched chassis for a pannier please. I'm not sure where or which thread to ask about it but here seems a possible place. I've just started in 2mm and would like to make an N gauge pannier look a bit more realistic and I'm sure I saw a discussion and some photographs of this having been done. I've found some information in this thread plus some elsewhere from Missy and Rich Brummitt under "double heading" that's mainly about the etched chassis although missy's seems to have done more what I had in mind about but I was convinced I'd seen even more recent information and in particular photos of scratchbuilt footplates with splashers and other detail added to cut away Farish bodies. Maybe I dreamed it or it on some other website but Googling hasn't revealed anything more. Does anyone know if it was for real. I'd really like to know more about doing something like this myself so any help appreciated. Hi Oily, Yes - there was some information, but the chap who posted it has subsequently removed it (and a lot of his other posts) - a shame really, as there was some quite useful information there, and the threads don't really make sense with posts missing. As you have said, both Julia and Richard have done similar conversions, and there is an article or two by John Greenwood that was published in MRJ I think. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 Yes - there was some information, but the chap who posted it has subsequently removed it (and a lot of his other posts) - a shame really, as there was some quite useful information there, and the threads don't really make sense with posts missing. As you have said, both Julia and Richard have done similar conversions, and there is an article or two by John Greenwood that was published in MRJ I think. I did the basic milling required to get the body to fit the replacement chassis with rear axle drive, but nothing further yet. Since then I had done some work with said chap to remove substantially more material so that a new footplate could be added. It is not high on my list of priorities to finsh a pannier tank though. There is a big benefit to using the metal body: weight is your friend for a 2mm locomotive. My converted Dapol 14xx in that same blog entry mentioned can barely pull half a dozen free running plastic wagons with a brake van! I have another pannier tank with a large (for 2mm) motor and flywheel and that can also pull a good amount of stock. Julia's engine is much better than mine for detail but pre-dates the conversion chassis iirc. Ask away if you have any further questions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted September 3, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 3, 2012 The John Greenwood article refered to is in MRJ's 88 and 89. John used Neil Balantine wheels to finescale the farish chassis - these are no longer available although a replacement chassis is a much better bet anyway. His body mods in MRJ 89 are very useful. I don't know what happened to the loco as the article was commisioned and it went to Paul Karou so is probably somewhere in Wild Swan Towers. The two panniers that (unprototypicaly) make an occasional appearence on Wenfordbridge are scratchbuilds. Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 After looking at the Dapol pannier in the cabinet today at TINGS I can confirm the presence of a skirt from tank to running plate from the smoke box to the cab. The man in the know said that they had now shipped. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 I am hoping to build a GWR Saddle Tank, and intended to use the Association 57xx chassis as a starting point. From reading the various entries on this thread I am a little confused as to whether the drive is on the centre axle, or one of the outer axles, or whether there are two different chassis to provide this choice. What I want to build is an open cab Saddle Tank, and am wondering if this chassis will be suitable after all. Can anyone with experience of the 57xx chassis advise please? Thanks in anticipation, Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted September 12, 2012 Author Share Posted September 12, 2012 (edited) I am hoping to build a GWR Saddle Tank, and intended to use the Association 57xx chassis as a starting point. From reading the various entries on this thread I am a little confused as to whether the drive is on the centre axle, or one of the outer axles, or whether there are two different chassis to provide this choice. What I want to build is an open cab Saddle Tank, and am wondering if this chassis will be suitable after all. Can anyone with experience of the 57xx chassis advise please? Thanks in anticipation, Ian There are (or were) two sets of frames supplied with the kit, one for centre axle drive, one for rear. Currently only the centre axle drive is supplied, but that may change again once I have obtained a Dapol Pannier and made any changes needed. Both types were designed to keep the motor and drive out of view in the cab. That is not the same as out of the cab altogether, and from the CAD it looks touch and go as to whether either version would be suitable as-is for an open cab loco. However, you could still use the frames, coupling rods etc and mount the gearing and motor to your own design. Chris Edited September 12, 2012 by Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Can anyone with experience of the 57xx chassis advise please? I will (if I remember tonight) post a photo of the chassis with the body attached, but without the cab, so you can see where the worm will be. My chassis is the equivalent to having the worm/motor mounting cut away with an alternate arrangement of motor mounting so would be about the minimum cab encroachment possible with the rear axle drive version (which is preferable IMO). If you think it would work then you'll have to find someone who will part with a rear axle drive etch, unless more are to be made available to the shop after Chris' modifications. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Chris / Richard, Thank you both for your replies. I think I will order a chassis then probably dispense with the etched gearbox replacing with a custom one of my own. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Pictures below. What you see just above the wheel in the opening is one of the motor wires, and maybe a flash of worm gear right at the left hand edge of the opening. From above the worm is not protruding beyond the front cab sheet, and the worm gear would probably fit inside the back head. Finally a more oblique view for perspective, but perhaps not so meaningful as the above. I reckon that having had a proper look you're not going to have any headaches with what you propose. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 (edited) Apologies in advance this isn't a 'how I did this' kind of post but 'look at this'. I wondered just how long these took to put together. I recall the previous tank engines I made didn't seem to take that long and so thought I'd keep the clock on this one. After half an hour After an hour I did intend half hourly photos but there isn't much that happens too visibly between the frames being assembled and the wheels going in so this is two hours later. I reckon that if it were a tank engine I'd be finished now. All the wheels are to gauge. Only the crankpins, rods and quartering remain to complete before the brakes are added. Four hours total should do the chassis. The body is pictured behind, but will need some adjustment to get the chassis to fit. I'll cover that in a bit more detail if I remember to take the photographs to show the changes required. Edit: I will add that the wheels were painted, cleaned, polished and blackened before the clock started; and that was quite a bit of work. However it is not specific to the replacement chassis. Edited September 28, 2012 by richbrummitt 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted September 29, 2012 Author Share Posted September 29, 2012 (edited) Apologies in advance this isn't a 'how I did this' kind of post but 'look at this'. I wondered just how long these took to put together. I recall the previous tank engines I made didn't seem to take that long and so thought I'd keep the clock on this one. After half an hour After an hour I did intend half hourly photos but there isn't much that happens too visibly between the frames being assembled and the wheels going in so this is two hours later. I reckon that if it were a tank engine I'd be finished now. All the wheels are to gauge. Only the crankpins, rods and quartering remain to complete before the brakes are added. Four hours total should do the chassis. The body is pictured behind, but will need some adjustment to get the chassis to fit. I'll cover that in a bit more detail if I remember to take the photographs to show the changes required. Edit: I will add that the wheels were painted, cleaned, polished and blackened before the clock started; and that was quite a bit of work. However it is not specific to the replacement chassis. Richard, A couple of questions. I see you put in the springing wires after the frames were assembled. How did that go? I know Bob Jones prefers to put them on first, but they would probably foul the assembly jig then. Also do you intend to mount the motor in the tender using the existing Ixion mount? As part of the design of the Black 5 replacement chassis I have produced some motor mounts based on Bob's designs and I am in the process of revisiting the design of the tender chassis for the Collett to work with them. However it will be a while to completion as I need to get hold of the Dapol tender myself to see if there are any other changes that would be beneficial. I am just building up a test etch for a 4mm LNER Gresley suburban coach and am a bit daunted by the number of separate panels, door handles, handrails, droplights and doorstops there are. I think I will go back to building loco chassis, it is just so much simpler! Chris Edited September 29, 2012 by Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 A couple of questions. I see you put in the springing wires after the frames were assembled. How did that go? I know Bob Jones prefers to put them on first, but they would probably foul the assembly jig then. It's not a problem. I bend them up and hold them across the bearing hole with some reverse action tweezers. I'd not thought of doing it any other way around. I used the barrel type frame assembly jig because I'm using up some of the thinner PCB strip I had. Also do you intend to mount the motor in the tender using the existing Ixion mount? As part of the design of the Black 5 replacement chassis I have produced some motor mounts based on Bob's designs and I am in the process of revisiting the design of the tender chassis for the Collett to work with them. However it will be a while to completion as I need to get hold of the Dapol tender myself to see if there are any other changes that would be beneficial. I'm undecided about the motor mount. I had considered using the motor that Ixion provided, but then removed it. I have some 10mm Faulhaber and Mashima flat cans looking for a home so it will most likely get one off those. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 I'm on the lookout for any photos people may have and are willing to share of builds of the etched loco chassis range. I want to create a document of photos with captions to help others. Of particular interest would be things not already covered by the instructions, such as how you mounted the motor, and conversions and modifications. I am also looking for any photos of assembled etched bufferstops from the Association range, to create a similar document. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I'm on the lookout for any photos people may have and are willing to share of builds of the etched loco chassis range. I want to create a document of photos with captions to help others. Of particular interest would be things not already covered by the instructions, such as how you mounted the motor, and conversions and modifications. I am also looking for any photos of assembled etched bufferstops from the Association range, to create a similar document. Chris All in my blog or this thread, unless you want them emailed to you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim V Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 My mods are detailed in this thread, along with the criticisms! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 All in my blog or this thread, unless you want them emailed to you. I can't seem to find the photos of the GWR bufferstops you built. This was some time ago. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 I can't seem to find the photos of the GWR bufferstops you built. This was some time ago. Try here, unless you want them in situ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 [...] I am also looking for any photos of assembled etched bufferstops from the Association range, to create a similar document. Chris I don't think my first attempt in building a 2mm etched kit deserves to be mentioned but, in case it helps, a few pictures of my SR buffer-stop: SR Buffer-Stops Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted October 11, 2012 Author Share Posted October 11, 2012 Try here, unless you want them in situ? If they are in situ and painted, then yes. I am looking to include a few more pictures of them in a finished state. There were some nice SR ones on Annendale Town at the AGM, but I didn't have my camera with me. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted October 11, 2012 Author Share Posted October 11, 2012 I am also looking for any photos of assembled etched bufferstops from the Association range, to create a similar document. First version of the bufferstop photos can now be found at https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B7V9MIj3SLTgYlhxcXhrdEVsMWc/edit Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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