RMweb Premium Kris Posted February 12, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 12, 2012 Why not trim the "timbers" to fit rather than putting them in the wrong place? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 For simplicity, is it correct to build the turnout laying the timbers like in the picture below? (certainly doing the gaps before) ...Anyway, it didn't look quite right to me... Rather than guessing about what is right or what looks nice, I'd recommend asking a few questions over in the Permanent Way, Signalling & Infrastructure section about timber blocking practice in your prototype area and time period. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Thank you for your input. Anyway, it didn't look quite right to me so I put all the timbers trying to follow the plan as much as possible. Valentin, Remember that on the full size railway, ballast will need to be packed around the sleepers and turnout timbers. This means that there really needs to be room to get either side of each sleeper to pack the ballast under the sleeper. At worst, access needs to be from at least one side, and I don't think you could do that on some of the timbers you've shown in your latest photos. On my little shunting plank layout I used the Templot 'shove timbers' function to move things around a bit, but also used a few very long timbers where necessary. Hope this helps a bit, Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted February 12, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 12, 2012 In the early days the timbers were generally placed across the route and many companies used interlaced timbers. However in later it became more common with crossovers to use long timbers across the two lines rather than the three timbers your plan shows. However if the crossover is from a siding to one of the main lines the greater spacing of the siding may make the layout in your plan more likely. As always the study of photographs can be a great help. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armchair Modeller Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Since your model is a small shunting puzzle, not a main line, I would not worry too much about the position of the sleepers. How you have laid them out is quite possible in such a location, where low speeds and low maintenance were the order of the day. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 [...] Hope this helps a bit, Andy It helped a lot... Likewise the information provided by Don and Armchair Modeller. Thank you, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Hello Valentin, May I make a small suggestion, put your baseboard on the floor short side down and try to twist it, if it will twist even slightly, it will warp. If it does twist then you must put some diagonals in, you are putting a lot of work into this and if it goes banana shaped you will not be very happy. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 Thank you, Jim. As I gave up my plan to use Sundeala board (now I have a good quality 1/4" plywood) your advice will be useful in the future. Regards, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Hello Valentin, Over the years I've talked to a lot of people mostly at exhibitions who've spent a year or so making a layout only to find that it warped and who have asked why mine doesn't. All for the sake of a few minutes making a 'W' underneath. Cheers and good luck - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted February 27, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 27, 2012 Similar approach for my embryo 2mm layout Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted February 28, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 28, 2012 To stiffen up these designs even more, glue and pin some 4 mm plywood plates on the bottom of the framework in each corner and at the intersections to tie the sides and bracing components together: look at a truss girder bridge to see why. Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted February 28, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 28, 2012 Hi Valentin, I haven't forgotten about taking pictures of the TOU's on Highbury but, sat on its shelf in the workshop it is impossible to get at the underside to take a picture. I have to take it down to take it to the Macclesfield show in a couple of weeks so will take some then. Sorry for the delay, Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Hello Tim. Those corner braces are a good idea, thanks :-) One sees so much of this square bottomed baseboard construction, I wonder where it comes from? The sad thing about this is that someone advocates something without really investigating it for themselves and it gets copied all over the web and then it is taken as gospel. My main pastime is photography and the amout and spread of misinformation is appalling. Your bridge analogy is perfect there must be hundreds of them still about and does anyone take any notice, I wonder? It's such a shame to spend a lot of time making a layout only to have it warp for the sake of a few minutes work. End of rant :-) Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 Hi Valentin, I haven't forgotten about taking pictures of the TOU's on Highbury but, sat on its shelf in the workshop it is impossible to get at the underside to take a picture. I have to take it down to take it to the Macclesfield show in a couple of weeks so will take some then. Sorry for the delay, Jerry Hi Jerry, There is no rush with the pictures. I think I'm going to stick with the initial plan and use wire-in-tube and sub-miniature switches (like in "The Beginner's Guide"). @Jim, Tim and Don, Bracing my baseboard with diagonals... I'm not quite sure about this as my baseboard is 4' x 1'1" and it's already cross braced every 1'. Isn't it enough? If not, I'll consider your advice. Thank you very much, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Your bridge analogy is perfect there must be hundreds of them still about and does anyone take any notice, I wonder? I do! but then it's my day job!!! Anyway, they're called gussets (or gusset plates). Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted February 28, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 28, 2012 Hi Jerry, There is no rush with the pictures. I think I'm going to stick with the initial plan and use wire-in-tube and sub-miniature switches (like in "The Beginner's Guide"). @Jim, Tim and Don, Bracing my baseboard with diagonals... I'm not quite sure about this as my baseboard is 4' x 1'1" and it's already cross braced every 1'. Isn't it enough? If not, I'll consider your advice. Thank you very much, If you think back to schoolboy geometry a paralleogram can be squashed a traingle cannot. If it is easy to add diagonals do so otherwise you take the risk and may well get away with it. I find that with two long diagonals I can forget any other internal bracing. As for the gussets I have used some but didn't find them necessary and interfere with the legs. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 My first attempt into building buffer stops (this has been done about an year ago): And another one, finished yesterday: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonRyan Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 Wonderful buffer stops! Its a shame that i'm in N scale because your trackwork looks amazing. -Cody F. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted November 4, 2012 Author Share Posted November 4, 2012 My first EVER attempt in track weathering (I had a faint idea about dry brushing only). I used some of the Carr's ballast (I wish I haven't used the "Firebox Ash" which looks more like wood splinters than ash) and some soft pastels: black, brown, yellow and white. This is just a test, not part of any layout. I just wanted to see what I can achieve with next to no-knowledge and I'd say I enjoyed it. I can't say I'm impressed but the real thing looks better then I was expecting. I'll start to study further about weathering - it's fun doing it!... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 5, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 5, 2012 Geoff book ( 2mmSA Track book) includes some advice on painting and weathering track. Mind you your track looks OK just not sure about that strange heap at the end. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 Geoff book ( 2mmSA Track book) includes some advice on painting and weathering track. Mind you your track looks OK just not sure about that strange heap at the end. Don I have already read Chapter 7 of the aforementioned book and I followed exactly the steps described for ballasting then I did the weathering the way I thought it should be done... That "strange heap" is my idea for a buffer-stop... :-) As I have a few more laminate flooring off-cuts I am going to test more. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted April 1, 2013 Author Share Posted April 1, 2013 Albeit being a 2mm Scale Association member for more than two years, only a couple of weeks ago I managed to buy the Association sample pack (BR Diagram 1/108 16 Ton Steel Mineral Wagon Kit with 60' length of 2FS Easitrac). So I started with this: And after a few hours I ended up with this: Next steps: painting, transfers and weathering... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted April 1, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 1, 2013 That looks very nice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted April 1, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 1, 2013 Well that turned out nice. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixie Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Nice one Valetine, the chassis looks particularly neat. Have you chemically blackened it or painted it? Pix Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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