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Valentin

My 2mm FS work

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Why not trim the "timbers" to fit rather than putting them in the wrong place?

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For simplicity, is it correct to build the turnout laying the timbers like in the picture below? (certainly doing the gaps before)

...Anyway, it didn't look quite right to me...

Rather than guessing about what is right or what looks nice, I'd recommend asking a few questions over in the Permanent Way, Signalling & Infrastructure section about timber blocking practice in your prototype area and time period.

 

Nick

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Thank you for your input. Anyway, it didn't look quite right to me so I put all the timbers trying to follow the plan as much as possible.

 

Valentin,

 

Remember that on the full size railway, ballast will need to be packed around the sleepers and turnout timbers. This means that there really needs to be room to get either side of each sleeper to pack the ballast under the sleeper. At worst, access needs to be from at least one side, and I don't think you could do that on some of the timbers you've shown in your latest photos. On my little shunting plank layout I used the Templot 'shove timbers' function to move things around a bit, but also used a few very long timbers where necessary.

 

post-8055-0-44348100-1329070492.jpg

 

Hope this helps a bit,

 

Andy

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In the early days the timbers were generally placed across the route and many companies used interlaced timbers. However in later it became more common with crossovers to use long timbers across the two lines rather than the three timbers your plan shows. However if the crossover is from a siding to one of the main lines the greater spacing of the siding may make the layout in your plan more likely. As always the study of photographs can be a great help.

Don

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Since your model is a small shunting puzzle, not a main line, I would not worry too much about the position of the sleepers. How you have laid them out is quite possible in such a location, where low speeds and low maintenance were the order of the day.

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[...]

 

Hope this helps a bit,

 

Andy

 

It helped a lot... Likewise the information provided by Don and Armchair Modeller.

 

Thank you,

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Guest Jim Read

Hello Valentin,

 

May I make a small suggestion, put your baseboard on the floor short side down and try to twist it, if it will twist even slightly, it will warp. If it does twist then you must put some diagonals in, you are putting a lot of work into this and if it goes banana shaped you will not be very happy.

 

Jim

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Thank you, Jim. As I gave up my plan to use Sundeala board (now I have a good quality 1/4" plywood) your advice will be useful in the future.

 

Regards,

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Guest Jim Read

Hello Valentin,

 

Over the years I've talked to a lot of people mostly at exhibitions who've spent a year or so making a layout only to find that it warped and who have asked why mine doesn't.

 

281c1hg.jpg

 

All for the sake of a few minutes making a 'W' underneath.

 

Cheers and good luck - Jim

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Similar approach for my embryo 2mm layout

 

post-8525-0-38182800-1305068912_thumb.jpg

 

Don

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To stiffen up these designs even more, glue and pin some 4 mm plywood plates on the bottom of the framework in each corner and at the intersections to tie the sides and bracing components together: look at a truss girder bridge to see why.

 

Tim

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Hi Valentin, I haven't forgotten about taking pictures of the TOU's on Highbury but, sat on its shelf in the workshop it is impossible to get at the underside to take a picture. I have to take it down to take it to the Macclesfield show in a couple of weeks so will take some then. Sorry for the delay,

 

 

Jerry

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Guest Jim Read

Hello Tim.

 

Those corner braces are a good idea, thanks :-)

 

One sees so much of this square bottomed baseboard construction, I wonder where it comes from? The sad thing about this is that someone advocates something without really investigating it for themselves and it gets copied all over the web and then it is taken as gospel. My main pastime is photography and the amout and spread of misinformation is appalling.

 

Your bridge analogy is perfect there must be hundreds of them still about and does anyone take any notice, I wonder?

 

It's such a shame to spend a lot of time making a layout only to have it warp for the sake of a few minutes work.

 

End of rant :-)

 

Jim

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Hi Valentin, I haven't forgotten about taking pictures of the TOU's on Highbury but, sat on its shelf in the workshop it is impossible to get at the underside to take a picture. I have to take it down to take it to the Macclesfield show in a couple of weeks so will take some then. Sorry for the delay,

 

 

Jerry

 

Hi Jerry,

 

There is no rush with the pictures. I think I'm going to stick with the initial plan and use wire-in-tube and sub-miniature switches (like in "The Beginner's Guide").

 

@Jim, Tim and Don,

 

Bracing my baseboard with diagonals... I'm not quite sure about this as my baseboard is 4' x 1'1" and it's already cross braced every 1'. Isn't it enough? If not, I'll consider your advice.

 

Thank you very much,

Edited by Valentin

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Your bridge analogy is perfect there must be hundreds of them still about and does anyone take any notice, I wonder?

 

 

I do! but then it's my day job!!! ;)

 

Anyway, they're called gussets (or gusset plates).

 

Andy :)

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Hi Jerry,

 

There is no rush with the pictures. I think I'm going to stick with the initial plan and use wire-in-tube and sub-miniature switches (like in "The Beginner's Guide").

 

@Jim, Tim and Don,

 

Bracing my baseboard with diagonals... I'm not quite sure about this as my baseboard is 4' x 1'1" and it's already cross braced every 1'. Isn't it enough? If not, I'll consider your advice.

 

Thank you very much,

 

If you think back to schoolboy geometry a paralleogram can be squashed a traingle cannot. If it is easy to add diagonals do so otherwise you take the risk and may well get away with it. I find that with two long diagonals I can forget any other internal bracing. As for the gussets I have used some but didn't find them necessary and interfere with the legs.

Don

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My first attempt into building buffer stops (this has been done about an year ago):

 

IMG_1025.jpg

 

And another one, finished yesterday:

 

DSCF6414.jpg

 

DSCF6411.jpg

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Wonderful buffer stops! Its a shame that i'm in N scale because your trackwork looks amazing.

 

-Cody F.

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My first EVER attempt in track weathering (I had a faint idea about dry brushing only). I used some of the Carr's ballast (I wish I haven't used the "Firebox Ash" which looks more like wood splinters than ash) and some soft pastels: black, brown, yellow and white.

 

This is just a test, not part of any layout. I just wanted to see what I can achieve with next to no-knowledge and I'd say I enjoyed it. I can't say I'm impressed but the real thing looks better then I was expecting. I'll start to study further about weathering - it's fun doing it!...

 

DSCF6469.jpg

 

DSCF6471.jpg

 

DSCF6467.jpg

 

DSCF6462.jpg

Edited by Valentin
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Geoff book ( 2mmSA Track book) includes some advice on painting and weathering track. Mind you your track looks OK just not sure about that strange heap at the end.

Don

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Geoff book ( 2mmSA Track book) includes some advice on painting and weathering track. Mind you your track looks OK just not sure about that strange heap at the end.

Don

 

I have already read Chapter 7 of the aforementioned book and I followed exactly the steps described for ballasting then I did the weathering the way I thought it should be done...

 

That "strange heap" is my idea for a buffer-stop... :-)

 

As I have a few more laminate flooring off-cuts I am going to test more.

Edited by Valentin

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Albeit being a 2mm Scale Association member for more than two years, only a couple of weeks ago I managed to buy the Association sample pack (BR Diagram 1/108 16 Ton Steel Mineral Wagon Kit with 60' length of 2FS Easitrac).

 

So I started with this:

 

IMG_20130328_141738_zps93e8c6be.jpg

 

IMG_20130328_144800_zpsca771d5d.jpg

 

 

And after a few hours I ended up with this:

 

IMG_20130401_130910_zps570b859c.jpg

 

IMG_20130401_132233_zps9b4eee5f.jpg

 

Next steps: painting, transfers and weathering...

Edited by Valentin
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That looks very nice.

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Well that turned out nice.

Don

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Nice one Valetine, the chassis looks particularly neat. Have you chemically blackened it or painted it?

 

Pix

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