Wrighty Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Hi, I am having problems with my Heljan class 47 which I have sent away for repairs twice only to find that it still doesn't work. The motor starts making a horrible squeaky noise and then eventually the loco comes to a stop and refuses to move again. Any suggestions to remedy this would be greatly appreciated. Kind regards Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Presumably this model was out of warranty when it first went for unsuccessful repair? If not I would simply return it for a refund on 'not of merchantable quality' grounds: it is supposed to run and will not, simple as that. If you want to tackle this yourself, strip it down, and assess the drive lines for tightness, and while you have the motor out give it a bench test. The reported symptoms are typical of a bearing which is tight, heating and thereby binding on a shaft, so if there is no problem with the drive lines don't be surprised if the trouble is on the motor. You will be able to feel if a bearing gets hot. If sparing lubrication is insufficient to rectify, a DIY repair can be effected by treating the bearing with an abrasive metal polish like brasso. The shaft rotation in either direction will pump small quantities of the brasso in and out of the bearing, and you will see it go black from metal fines. Repeat several times cleaning away all the old brasso every time, and then use a very little thin oil to wash out the bearing several times, finally test to assess success. It could be that the problem is internal to the motor; if so a replacement motor can be purchased (this is also the fall back if the motor bearing repair is unsuccessful. It is possible to fiddle about with can motor interiors but success is not guaranteed... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrighty Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 Presumably this model was out of warranty when it first went for unsuccessful repair? If not I would simply return it for a refund on 'not of merchantable quality' grounds: it is supposed to run and will not, simple as that. If you want to tackle this yourself, strip it down, and assess the drive lines for tightness, and while you have the motor out give it a bench test. The reported symptoms are typical of a bearing which is tight, heating and thereby binding on a shaft, so if there is no problem with the drive lines don't be surprised if the trouble is on the motor. You will be able to feel if a bearing gets hot. If sparing lubrication is insufficient to rectify, a DIY repair can be effected by treating the bearing with an abrasive metal polish like brasso. The shaft rotation in either direction will pump small quantities of the brasso in and out of the bearing, and you will see it go black from metal fines. Repeat several times cleaning away all the old brasso every time, and then use a very little thin oil to wash out the bearing several times, finally test to assess success. It could be that the problem is internal to the motor; if so a replacement motor can be purchased (this is also the fall back if the motor bearing repair is unsuccessful. It is possible to fiddle about with can motor interiors but success is not guaranteed... Thank you very much for your help and advice. I am going to see if there is a problem with the DCC chip first, failing this it will be going back to the model shop for them to fix. Kind regards Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
50033 Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Afternoon If your using DCC make sure you use a decent chip that can handle the motor. I had all sorts of problems with Heljans untill I put Lenz silvers in them. I'm sure there was a thread around about the motors drawing alot of juice and decoders like Bachmann and Hornby not being able to cope. mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted September 1, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 1, 2011 Yup. You need big boy decs in Heljans because of the motor current draw. P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Horrible noises coming from the loco generally suggest mechanical issues not DCC (unless its a Bachmann class 20 sound chip which sounds flippin awful :?) . Ideally it needs running on DC and the components testing as described earlier. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NERBOB Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 Interestingly I have just got a replacement for my "Banana" and "Elongated" chassis - (grateful thanks to Howes for the replacement). However, one of the rear bogie drive axles doesn't turn unless the whole weight, and a bit more from my finger(!) is applied; there's a squealing coming from within, and I suspect either a worn or misaligned cog in the bogie housing. When I get a chance it'll be stripped down to have a look (I need to change the filament lamps for LEDs and fit a decoder as well, so it'll be in for "major overhaul"). Also the current draw from the motor is immense - nearly half an Ampere. Accelleration (analogue) is also very laboured, so something's not quite right. I did send only the Chassis for replacement so have plenty of spares of everything else to refit the old runner to the new chassis - that's most probably what I'll do. Will try to remember to report back - unless you've fallen asleep by now................... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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