Blue Peter Posted November 21, 2009 Author Share Posted November 21, 2009 Can anyone tell me,have i got here ?? Norm VEYRON---You have landed---ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevelner Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 hi.gents thanks for info issue 99.got on wednesday still no issue of 98. have got some bother with tender and bogie wheels now. have to send off to slaters for more axles .the wheelwobble is back. the main drivers seem ok now along with the slaters axles. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejgray52 Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 Picked up issue 100 (a milestone?) lots of instructions on correcting the footplate... I love the way they make it seem like this is what you were going to have to do all along... Certainly glad I decided to wait untill the new workshop is completed before I started the build. With all the advice/amendments, I have a half decent chance of producing the model! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted November 27, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 27, 2009 I'm a while off getting issue 100. Could give me a heads up on what I'll need to do to the footplate? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 Oh yes PLEASE! We are only up to issue 79 in Australia, and not knowing what the "experts" are saying is holding things up! Would be very nice to know if you are able to do so. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4472 Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 Picked up issue 100 (a milestone?) lots of instructions on correcting the footplate... I love the way they make it seem like this is what you were going to have to do all along... Certainly glad I decided to wait untill the new workshop is completed before I started the build. With all the advice/amendments, I have a half decent chance of producing the model! The 'fix it' info in 100 only goes to confirm everyone's suspicions of this being a crook kit from many months ago. Its disgusting how they assume the customer would happy to put things right that should never have been be wrong, and especially so when DJH have been building this item in advance of customers! Its laughable to now have to be be filing and chopping bits out at this late stage where there is a high risk of doing damage to other parts, I totally agree with you, in this instance its far better to have stored this kit and then tackle it with all parts to hand. Just good to see that a number have bypassed these fix's months ago, and making the best of a bad job that they can, keep it up guys! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted November 28, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 28, 2009 If someone could say what the bits that need filing and chopping actually are, that would be grand. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejgray52 Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 Basically, issue 100 tells you to remove the splashers (you didn't use epoxy now did you?) position them in the correct places, mark round them, file out the holes, fill the rear of the rear ones (which overhang)... Then, after screwing the chassis to the footplate, fit the replacement guard irons (from issue 99) and if your large footplate supports are no longer touching the valance (still in touch with reality?), remove them and fit the replacement ones from - you guessed it - issue 99! I love the way they say, 'you may have to trim...' - are they trying hard to make you think you messed up? Strikes me there was a miscalculation on their part, thinking modellers would never be interested in building this.... I have been modelling on and off for many years and always wanted to build a 7mm engine. The idea of spreading the cost was an attraction. I started the 'Build the Victory', given to me by a relative; their 'ship experts' tell you to paint it blue and yellow... the real thing is about 15 miles from where I live and it has always looked black and ochre to me... guess I need glasses? Don't complain too much about the FS; at least it isn't a cartoon of the real thing! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejgray52 Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 PS you also get the chimney and dome with issue 100 - with their sprues attached I though I had 2 metal mushrooms when I picked my copy up from the newsagents...lol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4472 Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 Basically, issue 100 tells you to remove the splashers (you didn't use epoxy now did you?) position them in the correct places, mark round them, file out the holes, fill the rear of the rear ones (which overhang)... Then, after screwing the chassis to the footplate, fit the replacement guard irons (from issue 99) and if your large footplate supports are no longer touching the valance (still in touch with reality?), remove them and fit the replacement ones from - you guessed it - issue 99! I love the way they say, 'you may have to trim...' - are they trying hard to make you think you messed up? Strikes me there was a miscalculation on their part, thinking modellers would never be interested in building this.... I have been modelling on and off for many years and always wanted to build a 7mm engine. The idea of spreading the cost was an attraction. I started the 'Build the Victory', given to me by a relative; their 'ship experts' tell you to paint it blue and yellow... the real thing is about 15 miles from where I live and it has always looked black and ochre to me... guess I need glasses? Don't complain too much about the FS; at least it isn't a cartoon of the real thing! Bearing in mind that all this filing and chopping of the splasher holes to refit the splashers (so they align centrally with the drive wheels), is on a footplate with the boiler glued/secured to the footplate, that's if you followed their loopy sequence of build, looks to me like someone has dropped a right gooley in its design or manufacture. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted November 28, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 28, 2009 Basically, issue 100 tells you to remove the splashers (you didn't use epoxy now did you?) Ah, that's OK than. I stuck mine on after I'd moved the footplate back so they line up already. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted November 29, 2009 Author Share Posted November 29, 2009 Ah, that's OK than. I stuck mine on after I'd moved the footplate back so they line up already. Me to also! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted November 30, 2009 Author Share Posted November 30, 2009 Hi all,Has anyone put on thier "Motion Bracket"-yet? The instructions say's to super glue them ,but I don't think that will be practicle,I think I will solder them,after all there must be some kind of pressure on them. After all they are connected to "Whitemetal parts"-------ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
h2ogasnz Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Hi All, We're up to part 30 here in NZ now, come with the replacement back head as per the series in the UK. So far all the parts are 100% the same, would have figured that nearly 2 years after release in the UK the NZ release would have had some of the "issues" fixed.... Anyway, is it possible that some one out there has a list of all the modifications/fixes for the A1 or do I have to go though all 94 pages of the old forum? I haven't started to build yet, figured I may wait till the series is finished in the UK before I start so I can find out ALL the problems first! Jeffrey Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted December 5, 2009 Author Share Posted December 5, 2009 Hi jeffrey, Here in the UK we're up to part 101 and I'm afraid even I can't remember all the "fixes". I'm sure if you use the old website all the fixes will come to light.----ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
h2ogasnz Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Hi, I was hopping that I didn't have to re-read all 94 pages of the old site, but looks like I'll have too.... never mind it's life! should keep me out of trouble for a week or two! so what comes in part 101? Any body got up to date photos of their build to share with us? Jeffrey Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted December 5, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 5, 2009 I did a blog of mine Up to date is debatable, but that's how far I've got. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejgray52 Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 In this weeks exciting instalment of the FS (issue 101), you get: smokebox door (in white metal) snifting valve " safety valves x2 " small handrail knobs x6 (in brass, 2 needed for the smokebox door) They don't look too bad... but I haven't checked any photos yet..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejgray52 Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 Time for issue 102... This time you get: *atomiser *mechanical lubricator hand wheel *lamp brackets x2 *regulator lever drain cock washout plugs x4 (* these are to be stored for later) The draisn cock is interesting; it looks like a part from another kit - once glued in position you have to cut some of the pipework off of it to make 2 seperate drain-cocks. Just the l/h cylinder this week, another draincock next week maybe? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted December 12, 2009 Author Share Posted December 12, 2009 Don't understand some of the instructions:- Part 86--I'm putting on the "Motion Gear,links etc,"apart from connectin them all up and (DON'T GLUE/SOLDER)Fitting them all together,"YOU SHOULD HAVE A SMOOTH ROLLING CHASSIS?(DOH!)Have I missed an Instruction somewhere???? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hudsonrobert49 Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Hi all, I thought i would do some testing with the deck supports and the plastic tender side plastic, two part epoxy (Araldite)you can just peal off the Araldite off the deck support once set, to me that sucks BIG time, if the train goes off the rails it will fall apart. it will be the same sticking the tender sides to the to the brass plate :icon_e_sad: any ideas any one :icon_confused: Merry Christmas to you ALL. :icon_wave: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted December 15, 2009 Author Share Posted December 15, 2009 Maybe make it in brass ----ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hudsonrobert49 Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Maybe make it in brass ----ROB Hi Blue Peter afraid im not that good only Wish I was :icon_wave: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
djgriff Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Hi all, I thought i would do some testing with the deck supports and the plastic tender side plastic, two part epoxy (Araldite)you can just peal off the Araldite off the deck support once set, to me that sucks BIG time, if the train goes off the rails it will fall apart. it will be the same sticking the tender sides to the to the brass plate any ideas any one Merry Christmas to you ALL. Hi not my idea but i think it should work ,mark where the side supports go on the base plate then solder the side supports to the base plate this will give more area to glue the sides to. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hudsonrobert49 Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Hi not my idea but i think it should work ,mark where the side supports go on the base plate then solder the side supports to the base plate this will give more area to glue the sides to. Dave Thanks Dave, I'll look in to that , OOPS just had a thought it will have to be VERY LOW melting point though Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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