RMweb Premium RichardT Posted April 7, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 7, 2012 This topic has finally nudged me into subscribing to RMWeb, following a reference on the 2mm VAG. Quite superb and inspiring Alex, and I feel suitably chastened contemplating those unmade 2mm Judith Edge NER electrics in my stock box. Especially as I was one of those who committed to buy some upfront so that it was worth Michael Edge's while shooting down the etches. Apologies if this has been covered before but a) where did you source the pantograph? and B) are you going to write up the chassis construction for the 2mm magazine? Congratulations again. Richard Taylor Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Alex Duckworth Posted April 7, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 7, 2012 Mophead - Thank you, I hope that your first essay into 2mm is successful. I can recommend joining the 2mm Association and going down the Easitrac and Farish diesil (the 24 is nice) with drop-in wheelsets route initially as getting something running fairly quickly is a good motivator. Also Richard, thank you too. You will find that the etches build very easily. The pantograph is a bit fiddley to make. All the readily available pans that I could find were too big, so I made four tiny B braclets from thin brass L section (drill holes first then cut to shape around them). I took apart one of the Kato pans that I used in my EM2 thread, clipped the lugs off the two metal bottom sections and soldered thin wire across them to form new pivots. I then cut the top metal sections to the same length as the bottom ones, bending new pivots at the top. Solder two of the brackets to the pan. pickup contact bar from the etch, spaced by the new pivots on the top metal section. Clip all of the parts together and slide the remaining two brackets over the wire pivots on the bottom metal sections, then solder the brackets to the kit's roof planks. Bend a right angle into a length of fine wire and feed it through the kit's roof using the etched hole then bend it to meet the bottom of the contact bar, this wire can be bent slightly and will provide enough resistance to keep the pan. raised if you pass it through a short length of microtube soldered to the roof inside the cab. I've just sent the start of an article to Mick at the magazine, so yes, I'll put in some detail about the bogies. This week I'll change the numbers and, if I get brave enough, fit a DCC chip. Alex. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tin Turtle Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Just seen this - fantastic! I was lucky enough to 'cab' the ES1 at Shildon today, my favourite locomotive, and it's really inspirational to see such a wonderful little model of it. If anyone wants my interior photographs (didn't get as many as I wanted as there were other people in the cab, and by the time I came back to see if it had quietened down it was closed for the rest of the day!), then PM me and i'll be happy to e-mail them over Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium RichardT Posted April 14, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 14, 2012 Richard, thank you too. You will find that the etches build very easily. The pantograph is a bit fiddley to make... Appreciate the detailed reply Alex, even if it's a bit scary! I'll look forward to the article in the 2mm Magazine. Actually, I think you should try to get this into MRJ as well. Cheers, Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Alex Duckworth Posted April 29, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 29, 2012 This week, with brave head firmly fixed on shoulders, I fitted a DCC chip to the loco and now have working directional lights. Still a lot too bright, but as soon as I read the decoder instructions I'll turn them down a bit. Alex. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan76 Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Looking good as usual Alex.... what's the secret of the headlights? Surface mount LEDs? If you've used a Lenz chip setting the intensity of the headlamps is easy - but in my experience you need to turn them down a long, long way to make them believable. Try 15 or 20 as the new CV value... Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 The problem with turning lights down a long way with CV values is that the PWM becomes visible as flicker. There are two fairly simple ways out of this flicker. One is to not turn down the CV, but instead use a higher value current resistor with the LED. So, on full power the LED is much dimmer. The other is to fit a small capacitor (little surface mount thing will do) to smooth the power supplied to the LED. - Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tin Turtle Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 I don't know if they're of use to anyone but I took a large number of interior images in the ES1 this week - if anyone's interested, let me know Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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