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Jamiel

Ellerby - 4mm, buildings, rolling stock, scratch & kit building.

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Just spent last night and this morning reading through the thread.

Some excellent work and can't wait to see more on the layout!
 

The Class 21 looks great - I have a layout set in Scotland, just south of Glasgow, and I need 37 class 21s!

My skills aren't anywhere near as good as yours though, so I won't try and do a Hornby 29 into one, I'm just going to wait for the Dapol ones.

The 9F looks absolutely marvelous!!!

 

Keep up the good work!

 

Peter

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Thanks for the encouragement 60012.

 

I had the parts to make the Class 21 before Dapol announced their plans, and I waited for a while, but in the end thought I would get on with the conversion as they were taking so long. I have had a look for a Dapol Class 22, as I think cutting the cab fronts/windows from those would be far better than what I have been able to do, but I haven't seen any spare bodies, or spare and repair models for sale, the new ones are far too expensive to consider using them as a donor.

I have the most of the parts for another conversion, but lack a few A1 etches, which would be necessary. Not sure if I will do that, or will wait and see what the Dapol one is like (when they get around to it).

It is nice to have my own version though. I hope to get the lining done around the windows this weekend, and maybe some weathering, but I will probaly have to work at least one day, maybe two, so it could be a week or two before I get more done.

Jamie

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One other thing I should have said to anyone reading this thread, or the many others where people show the models they have worked on, is please do not be put off by seeing other's skills, these are only learned by reading other threads and books and having a go.

Picking up an old Hornby, or Lima model on Ebay, and detailing up the grills, or windows is a great way to start, and if your first attempt doesn't work out, it is all good experience, and when models do start to come together you have something that is your own special loco, or carriage.

I would also add that I have found George Dent's books a superb reference for how to approach customising/detailing  models, as I have with Geoff Taylor's book on making Buildings.

Anyway, all that said, I think a couple of hours cutting little pieces of general purpose white coach lining (Presfix) to edge the cab front windows has improved the face of the Class 21 no end (no pun intended). They have also had a tiny coat of matt varnish to set them in place, and then the corners will be touched up with a 00 brush and white paint, and green where I have chipped the edges, before dry brushing, to weather it back.

Class2951.jpg

Class2952.jpg

I also daubed on a mixture of Hurmrol filler, black and grey paint on the buffers, and quickly pressed it flat to get that build up of grease they have. I couldn't find my talc to mix so used the Humbrol filler to thicken the paint. It works OK I think.

My main regret with this conversion is that I used the A1 etched front doors as they were and added an extension at the bottom, rather than using them as a template and making my own more accurate ones. Nothing against A1, without who's etches I could not have done most of this work.

I just looked at my stock of bits, and the only single blade wipers I have are Craftsman etches, which don't look very good, so I will have a glance at the Shawplan website, and others to see if I can get something better. I also need to rebuild one of the cab vents, or eyebrows as they are often called, but it is getting very close to being finished.

Starting to look at my 10202 (with extended cab door as in its final days as my next project).

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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I still need to do weathering and get some single blade wipers for the Class 21, but I have made a start on my next loco conversion so that I can do finishing on the Class 21 while the new one has glue setting and the like.

I have a Silver Fox resin chassis for a Bullied Prototype diesel. The pattern of the radiator grills on the side matches the first two, and I would like to add the later style connecting door, which was only on those two locos as well, so this will be 10202 (almost certainly, 96% ish).

 

I did have a modern Bachmann peak chassis as a possible donor, until I realised that they are built far too strongly to be cut up as I needed for the shorter Bullied diesels. So I have an extra peak to detail at some point in the future.

I bought a Hornby TTS sound class 40 as a donor chassis, and here are my first photos of the new conversion. This is a very lightweight chassis, and is easy to cut, so a much better donor, it also has a single bogie motor, not as good for running, but certainly easier to deal with when hacking things about. It does mean this will also have sound, admittedly the sound of a class 40, but on another thread a couple of people said that was pretty close, same engine, different supercharger though.  Pluses and minuses.

 

After some measuring of the two bodies, and how they fit on the chassis, I cut out 21mm from the centre of the Hornby chassis. Just as I was cutting out the section from one side of the chassis I remembered some advice from John at the Leeds Model Railway Club, cut a horizontal slit before splitting the chassis to use as a basis for keeping it all in line. I tried my best on the side I had already done - a bit of padding was needed it make this work, but I did do it first on the other side, and it worked brilliantly. Thank you John (Barry please pass that on for me.) A square piece of 2mm plasticard can be seen waiting to form the join between the two sections. I also razor sawed off the little bits that extend at the ends.

Bullied01.jpg

 

The basic join glued and clipped together to dry. I cut it slightly too wide, so it would make a good fit, and then used the Dremmel to sand down the excess.

Bullied02.jpg

Two cross bars added at the top to hold the sound block of the TTS clear of the now much nearer bogies, holes cut to allow short nails to hold it centrally (I couldn't find the right length of bolt).

Bullied03.jpg

 

The electronics and sound block sitting in position. As with the Crosti 9F, I found that the soldering on the wires for Hornby railroad models is not great, and one of the wires came off in the making of the chassis.

Bullied04.jpg

If anyone is looking for a Hornby Railroad Class 40 body shell, please drop me a message. Much as I love Class 40's, I don't think I will be doing anything with this body, the new Bachmann ones are far too good by comparison.

Hopefully I might get a little bit more done on this later this evening, but maybe not, I am pretty tired after the last few weeks of work.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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Thanks Barry, John's advice really helped to hold the chassis together and keep it straight. I have checked it and it runs OK, and great to have sound on this one.

 

Quick and late update.

Here is the fuel tank, maybe water tank, well underneath assembly, the resin molded edges, and much improvisation from me to create a little detail to go behind that. I can't find detailed photos of what is going on there, but it looks too bare if I don't do anything, so mostly fiction, but  hopefully convincing fiction.

Bullied05.jpg

Bullied06.jpg

Bullied07.jpg

Tidying the buffer beams, the Bullied diesels were much plainer up front than the Class 40s, more to be done on this, and then add back the correct details.

Bullied08.jpg

Here are the SilverFox resin molds. I am removing the hand rails, headcode discs, and some of the other detail, and will add that back with etched parts. The waist bands are too prominent and I am using a knife and file to rub them back a bit. Top the side I haven't started, bottom the side I have made a start on. It is wet as I had just washed off the scrapings, which warnings seem to say are harmful. I used a mask when doing this as well.

Bullied09.jpg

I have also started one of the cabs, but it got too late to carry on.

Bullied10.jpg

I am also going to have a go at making replacements for the slats on the large grills at either side from plasticard. I can't find an etch close enough to use that. I will also add a class 47 roof etched grill (Shawpaln) and some other details.

I am also planing to go to bed now, I didn't realise I had been tinkering in the shed for so long.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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Another late update. Although it doesn't look bad in this photo, the large radiator grills are perhaps one of the weaker parts of the SilverFox body. No criticism, I like it a lot, but since etched grills are so common I wanted to see what I could do.

First idea, make new grills to fit in out of strips of plasticard.

Bullied11.jpg

Not precise enough, dug out my stock of etched grills, A1 assorted grills mostly - does anyone know if A1 are still going, I have been greatly indebted to them (him) of late. I cut down a couple with a Stanley knife, just losing one edge to allow the thin middle to remain.

Bullied12.jpg

 

Another before, but with working off the oversized and other details I wanted to remove.  It is the side I haven't done yet. Again after a wash down.

Bullied13.jpg

After much time with the Dremmel sander, 3mm drill bits in it as well, and files.

Bullied14.jpg

Much hollowing out of the inside to make a shallow recess for the etches to fit into. Mostly the Dremmel sander, but also usin a 3mm drill as a sander as well to get up into the top corner in particular.

Bullied15.jpg

Holding the etches roughly in place by hand.

Bullied16.jpg

I am quite pleased with the results of this. It took ages, and I have worn a face mask for much of the evening. One thing I learned when doing the Class 21 is not to fit teh grills before hollowing out the other side, as all that happens is you catch them with a file, and bend them. I have one bent, and difficult to replace Class 21 grill, thankfully I had two others to use, but the second Class 21 will need two new grills if I can find them.

Other good news, I remembered that I have a 40 year old Jouef Class 40, a pretty dreadful model, way over the 4mm loading gauge. Imagine a Class 40 that had eaten way too many pies! Anyway, the bogies are not too bad, even if the wheels look like discuses, and the chassis can be hacked back, so I will detail up the Hornby Railroad Class 40 body, and have it as a dummy loco. The Juoef motor is huge, and I suspect long dead, so it wouldn't fit into the correct sized body anyway. SO double headed Class 40s at some point I hope.

Tomorrow night hollowing out the other side's radiator grill.

Here is a link to how I want to finish the Bullied diesel, it is 10201 with the final style of front connecting door, rom Wikipedia.

Tring_with_Bulleid_English-Electric_1020

More soon, and a drink as I feel dusty despite the mask.

Jamie



 

Edited by Jamiel
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A quick shot (and badly exposed) of the Hornby Railroad Class 40 sitting on the Jouef chassis, and I mean 'sitting on' as the chassis sticks out both sides. Still a future project to look forward to.

Bullied17.jpg

Back to the Bullied Diesel, cutting out roof details. There are a few not very good shots of the diesels roof, and also a side shot with some of the panels open, so from those I am deducting, and guessing what detail should be there. As model's roofs are very visible, I felt there was not enough detail compared to my other rolling stock on the resin body, so I am happy to make a few guesses rather than have an obviously bare roof on the loco.

One of the roof panels on the body is the wrong way round from what I can see, but I am not too worried. I can see where exhaust ports are, but not what shape, so I am copying the Class 40 for those.  I have also scored where the panels appear to join in the centre, and drilled small indents to represent some of the rivets, but I think the Archers Rivets will be used as well.

Bullied18.jpg

The Shawplan Class 47 roof grills are an (almost?) exact fit for the loco, and have a very close mesh as well. Here is a mount made for the fan. I am worried about how much is jammed below, so have sacrificed making an invisible mount in favour of it not fouling what is below.

Bullied19.jpg

Vents, fan, and hinges added. I have thought better of what I did to the panel as seen on the right, so am filling it back in. I think rivets will be enough detail for that.

Bullied20.jpg

I feel the front windows on the body are too small, and don't capture the face of the loco, as a comparison here is the first window being extended.

Bullied21.jpg

Both front windows done, roughly, as I will cut the windows to go in next, and make sure that they all match by fitting trail them and then doing any final filing to allow then to go in.

Bullied22.jpg

Lots of detail to fit to the front, as you can see I have hacked it all back in favour of a complete addition of etched rails, discs, etc.  I might get chance to do a bit more later.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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I quickly painted the fan and then glued the Shawplan Class 47 grill and holding ring on. They are so easy to use, and I can really see why they have such a great reputation, I think they look great. I can't wait to add them to my Heljan Kestrel when I get around to the little detailing and weathering I have planned for it.

You can also see how well the Class 47's grill matches the Bullied Diesel's roof grill.

Bullied23.jpg

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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really good thread this especially the diesel detailing

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A few little bits of detailing. I sat the body on the chassis to see how it looked and saw that it needed a bit more detail around the battery box (or whatever it is that hangs own between the bogies).

Bullied24.jpg

I raided my Dapol Standard Class 4 kit that I use for donating odd bits, and cut one of the under cab pipe assemblies in half, and also added some of other Evergreen strip/tube bits, some formed into shape over a candle, to either side.

Bullied25.jpg

Bullied26.jpg

Etched headcode discs with wire soldered on the back, and the back plates for the end doors ready to add. I will do some painting and lining before adding these details, otherwise it would be too fiddly.

Bullied27.jpg

Small access flaps. May be sanded down a little to make them more flush.

Bullied28.jpg

Small side body details.

Bullied29.jpg

Hope to get a little more done later tonight.

Jamie

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I fitted the radiator grills this evening.

From my stock of A1 packs of various panels (I knew they would come in useful at some point), I took the top pair, cut off one edge with a Stanley knife, separated them, and then soldered then with the thin edge together. I tried soldering on a supporting strip, on one pair it worked, on the other pair they just soldered together at the top and bottom edges.

Bullied30.jpg

Glued in place with cyano (Rocket), front and back lit. I think they look OK.

Bullied31.jpg

Bullied32.jpg

Next to tackle the front windows, make sure the clear plastic pieces I make will fit in all four windows, then I think it will be time to prime the body. I have Archers rivet transfers to add in various places, but considering I will wash it down with Cif (Jif as those older forum members will remember it), I think the rivet transfers are better done after the priming.

Hopefully get some time this weekend to get on with this.

Jamie

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Those grills look great. Thanks for posting so much information on this build it's really helpful.

 

I'm currently working on an Ayjay models class 70 in original condition and the changes you are making to the resin original are inspiring me to make similar mods to that.

 

Thanks

 

Nik

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Thanks Nik.

Was the Ayjay class 70 the covered in the Hornby magazine recently? It looks like an interesting project, I really like Bullied's designs.

After doing a couple of small conversions, I have become bolder about hacking into RTR loco and kit parts, and most of the time if you make a mistake you can go back, although when doing the radiator grills above, I knew when I drilled them out they were gone, so my plans had to work for those. I have found that searching through this forum, and a few other modelling websites that there is lots of information, and similar work being done that you can take inspiration and ideas from.

I would love to see how your model develops.

Jamie

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Yes the class 70 is the model covered in Hornby magazine, it was that article that convinced me I may be able to build a kit.

I've only just found a railroad class 40 at a reasonable price but following you're posts I'm now looking for suitable etched grilles etc before starting assembly.

 

Thanks for your reply

 

Nik

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Hi Nik

I found the article, sorry it was BRM, I forgot. My gut feeling is that the additions they made are very good. Looking at the molding, I wouldn't hold out for etched grills, unless there are some I haven't seen around. I have only used brass etches on the large side and top grills for my diesel, but the Class 70 doesn't have those.

A couple of things I would do differently are to make the front windows from clear plastic, so you get a flush fit, rather than the pushed out moldings supplied, and I think panting with an airbrush well could give a better result than the one in the article, which I thought let down a nicely built model.

I can send you photos of the spare etches I have though if there are any you feel would help though.

Jamie

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The front windows holes have all been enlarged and matched. I cut a piece of 0.4mm Plasticard to fit the window opening I had done best, which was the biggest, and then used that to match the others. I tried to fit it into the other openings, and sanded and cut the edges until it fitted very snugly.

I also looked back at the small panels I had added to the ends and decided that the 10 thou (0.1mm) Plasticard was too thick, so I sanded them right back with some Wet & Dry. I left off the hinges and lock for the moment, as when Plasticard is that thin any glue, especially Mec will just dissolve it.

Bullied33.jpg

Thanks to Nik, I re-read the article in BRM about the Ayajy resin Class 70 kit, and following the advice from that (and also from elsewhere on the forum) washed the body in tepid water with washing up liquid. I then rinsed it in cold water, and then used a cloth to give it all a rub with Cif. 15 minutes outside in the wind and it was dry. I used Halfords primer, I have some Phoenix primer, but the instructions scared me off using it, and I have had fine results with the Halfords in the past.

The paint both picks out details in the molding, and any errors I have made. I also blasted one end at the top too much, so dabbed it back leaving a lumpy surface which I will sand with Wet & Dry.

The coat of primer does lose that awful yellow resin colour, and immediately makes it look much more like loco and not just a lump of resin.
Bullied34.jpg

Bullied35.jpg

Bullied36.jpg

Some areas will need more sanding and work, but I feel it is starting to look OK. I think I will have to dab a little something into the rivet holes I drilled in the roof as they are a bit too prominent, and it will be intersting to see how the Archers rivet transfers look on the roof and ends.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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That grey certainly shows more of the detail up.

 

Thanks for the offer of the etches, but having had another look at the body of the 70 there not as many vents and those that there are, are much smaller than the ones you have replaced.

 

Thank's for the advice on windows and painting, I was thinking of using glue and glaze for the windows but the body will have to be sprayed with rattle cans as I don't have an airbrush. Just need to find a suitable match for the southern green that was originally applied.

 

Thanks

 

Nik

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I really didn't like the drilled rivet holes when primed, far too big. I tried painting in Humbrol filler, but that made little difference. 10thou Plasticard was too thick to patch with, so I have tried a strip of paper glued on with PVA. I also sanded back the rough bits with Wet & Dry.

I think one thing I have found doing this model is to not be afraid of throwing away work that has taken a couple of hours, if it detracts from the model.

Bullied37.jpg

I filled some bits that look rough when primed, the edge of the panel I filed off has again been replaced with paper. Front step added with off cuts from the Extreme Etchings headcode discs etch, and little plasticard edges. Archers rivets added. There are more that could be done right next to the windows, but I suspect they would damaged when adding the windows, and don't want to over-do it with the rivets anyway.

Bullied38.jpg

First coats of green paint. Phoenix Precision Dull BR Green. I will see if my new mixer makes it matt this time. At first inspection it does appear to do so, but it did also make it very hard to airbrush as I suspect the suspension created by mixing up the particles that make it matt, also tend to clog the airbrush. I will see how it dries, the ends look like they may need another coat before I can do more work. Although the colour is a good match for BR colours, I do find Phoenix Precision paints much harder to work with than Humbrol.

 

Bullied39.jpg

Bullied40.jpg

Bullied41.jpg

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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I was worried about lining, thought it a dark art, but after my first attempt on a loco I am pleased with how it has turned out. The exposure on the photo makes it look to contrasty, and it will be weathered in a bit. The top picture does pick out the Archers rivet transfers well.

Bullied42.jpg

Bullied43.jpg

I have now coated it with some matt varnish. I must also say that the finish on the Phoenix Precision paints when used with the Badger motor stirrer is great. I have done the painting and lining before adding the front details, as they would be far too hard to get transfers past once in place. Here are some of the parts being painted ready to be added.

Bullied44.jpg

One thing I was undecided on was the central large side windows. I was tempted to paint them black and then gloss varnish to look like glass, but now I think I will drill them out as well and make glass pieces to fit, and probably a back piece to hide the insides. I also have to build two cab interiors.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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Archers rivets applied to the roof, and made ready for painting.....

Bullied45.jpg

 

... then I realised that I had pushed the masking tape on to the lining. It had been varnished, but it took off the top line on the sides!!!! Thinking about one thing, instead of the whole, stupid mistake. Fortunately this is the easiest part of the lining to re-do. More transfers ordered to do this bit.

Bullied46.jpg

The top painted.

Bullied47.jpg

The damaged lining removed (finger nail, cocktail stick and T-cut), and a few little marks repainted. One small bit of lining re-done as well.

Bullied48.jpg

Meanwhile I have made a couple of cab inserts, copied loosely from the old Hornby Class 29 cab. I didn't think about the connecting doors being higher with no centre window, but I think they will be fine once inside. I couldn't find any photos of the cab interior at all, and I do have the Modern Locomotives Illustrated Prototypes issue, and the Southern Way Bullied Diesel special.

Bullied49.jpg

Although I couldn't find cab interior, when I was painting the driver, I did think 'What colour jacket did 1950's BR engine drivers wear?'. It is usually hard to tell as steam engine drivers were liberally coated with soot and coal dust. I am happy to hear any suggestions, or correction to the blue jacket I have given him.

Bullied50.jpg

Lastly, a not very well exposed photo of the battery box below the chassis with its first coat of paint.

Bullied51.jpg

I have a week off next week and hope to get lots of modelling done.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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Relining and glazing. I have given the redone lining a dry brush with the BR green to blend it back a little. I tried the vacuum molded side windows, one was OK, but the others had too much space around the edges, so I cut and filed more from my clear plastic sheet. Now I have fitted them I remembered that a good idea is o paint the edges bacl to stop the prism look, but too late now. A bit of mucky window weathering at the edges may help though.

Bullied52.jpg

More glazing and detailing. Very tight to get the lamp iron on there, and I had to glue one back together, no sure if it will last. Also a fine string of glue on the roof.more painting should deal with that. it won't come off with my finger nail and I don't want to be too brutal trying to remove it.

Bullied53.jpg

Jamie

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End doors, Shawplan headcode discs, cut brass, RT lamp irons and a little plasticard.

Bullied54.jpg

Painted and in place using epoxy (Araldite), now waiting to dry for finer paitning.

Bullied55.jpg

Bullied56.jpg

The slightly revised cab inserts, I could see the middle sections rising up, so cut them out and put in a little detail to cover that area.

Bullied57.jpg

Jamie

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Working on the chassis now. Hornby detail packs and parts from Peterspares for the pipes and couplings. 2p just sat in place to judge the weighting, but I will have to measure that they don't foul the cab space on the body.

Bullied58.jpg

Side steps cut from a sheet of brass with a razor saw, then drilled, scored, bent and filed to shape. Wire to hold them onto the bogies soldered on, and the bogies drilled to make secure mounting points.

Bullied59.jpg

Holes filled in bogies and the step in place, the middle step added with plasticard. Not quite perfect, but they look OK.

Bullied60.jpg

More steps added further back, and the big boxed being the firs driving wheels.

Bullied61.jpg

Bullied62.jpg

Bullied63.jpg

I need to let the steps set in place, and tehn add the middle step to the two sets that don't yet have it. I may file back the sand pipes, or if that doesn't work, cut them off and replace with wire. A few other details, but mostly there for the chassis.

More transfers, hand rails around the cab and sides, transfers, horns, windscreen wipers, more painting for the roof. I may try running some paint into the edges of the windows to try and knock back the prism look a bit, and then weathering.

Looking forward to seeing it run, with the sound as well. This has been an enjoyable project, resin is not as hard to work with as I first suspected.

More soon.

Jamie

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