Jump to content

Jamiel

Ellerby - 4mm, buildings, rolling stock, scratch & kit building.

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, Jamiel said:

A few finishing touches to the tankers before they receive a coat of varnish from the airbrush to seal everything.
 

I used a cocktail stick to pop off some of the top paint where the talc was thick, then added drop of Mek to break up the surface in fine detail. A little black and dark grey washed on as well. A little dry brushing streaks on the edges and tiny drops of Mek as well.  I know these are small changes and probably don’t look that different in the photos, but they are worth doing to give the fine detail.

Tanker40.jpg

 

Tanker41.jpg

 

The same for the Class B tanker where I have the corroded/heavy spilled end. I also added a few drops of Mek around the top hatches on a few of the tankers.

Tanker42.jpg

 

I have also returned to the LMS Inspection saloon. Due to the BR Maroon going a little purple as I used grey undercoat, I mixed a little signal red and with it and gave another coat. Trust me this has made it look at little richer, but this is a quite dreadful photo, the sun went in just before I clicked.

Saloon20.jpg

 

I also did some tidying on the underframe, with having built the DMUs since I am better with brass bodies and frames and have corrected some mistakes I made. I put the end cross pieces flush with the bottom of the sides and so the floor I have made holds the body clear of the frame. To compensate I have removed the back bracing from the comet frames, and I have drilled holes in the floor to allow the bogie screw heads to sit through the floor. When held together it looks much better than before. Not as good as the DMUs but this was my first full brass build. I have also painted the bogies and done some repairs to bit of underframe detailing that were not straight.

Saloon21.jpg

 

I now need to do more painting inside the body and the transfers outside, then varnish it all together and glaze the coach. I also need to attached the body to the underframe and may have lost the screws I need. They are the same size as the shouldered screw pictured below, I presume on size below a set I have from B&Q which are 3/16” wide. Any help what to order would be appreciated, I presume Eileen Emporium or Ebay are the place as I am pretty sure the above are the smallest B&Q do.

Saloon22.jpg

 

Good be polishing off some nearly finished projects, the Class 120 DMU is in line as is more of the Arcade shops. I may also have a go at the extra layout board this summer and turn the layout through 180 degrees in the shed to make the scenic section more accessible.

 

On a different subject out family of sparrows in the hedge have just fledged four babies, here is one being fed the boiled rice we have been putting out for them, by its mother. Cheapest rice from Aldi, boiled without salt as advised by the RSPB, it has made the bird table very popular the last few weeks.

Fledg1.jpg

 

More soon I hope, both brids and trains.

Jamie

Do you know, I spend hours trying to avoid that sort of look when I'm painting coaches and wagons - and there you are doing it deliberately!

 

Nice work.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

St Enodoc, thanks for the comment. I did fall foul of a drop of Mek on an almost finished model, the Class 129 DMU, so I appreciate it can hapen. It did annoy me at the time, but I fixed it and it was accidental research into painting techniques.
 

Class129_62.jpg

 

 

A bit more on the Comet LMS Inspection Saloon. Better photos of the colour, maybe a bit too rich now, but you get the idea.
 

I have added the waist lining, number and BR crests, plus some tiny lettering at the ends, which is not actually correct, but too small to really question unless you get out a magnifying glass. All from the HMRS* pessfix sets. The number is for a Leeds allocated saloon.
 

I have also painted the interior and added some bits of paper, wall charts and diagrams as the walls looked very bare. The chassis has also had the missing bits painted.
 

Saloon23.jpg

 

Saloon24.jpg

 

Saloon25.jpg

 

The BR lining sets I have, do not have the single thin straw/yellow line that I have seen on some photos of the saloons, or on the Bachmann version. I have seen some models without the top line. I suspect I may have to get the LMS lining set to get the thin line. Any thoughts, just leave it, get that set, or are there other lining sets that would match?
 

Next step is to spray this and the oil tankers I have been working on with matt varnish, and then weathering, but not the latter before I decide on the top line or not. I also need to get some 8BA nuts and bolts I think, then when all that is done a little roof edge filling and the remaining waterpipes to be added and the side low hand rails. The glazing also has to be done.
 

Feels like I might be actually finishing off a project for once.

 

In addition to passing 100,000 views I see there are 120 people following the thread. Many thanks to everyone who has taken an interest in my modelling and also a big ‘thank you’ for the feedback and advice everyone has given, I have learned so much from this forum as well as from my days with the Leeds MRS.

 

Jamie
 

* 4mm model rail seems transfers like an odd sideline for Her Majesties Revenue Service.

Edited by Jamiel
  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A little more on the Comet LMS Inspection Saloon. The fine lining for above the windows arrived, it was really fiddly to do, fairly good, I am sure I will get better at this.

 

People added inside. There was a gap between the end top and the curved roof which I had solved with araldite on the Class 120 DMU, but here I had made the floor join the sides, so I have had to botch this a bit. I added plasticard behind the to, hoping that would work, but it was obvious that it sat back, so I pasted in a little Araldite and let it set, before filing it back. It has been painted by brush, it looks OK but not as good as if I had made the sides and roof together. This is part of it being my first build in brass and learning how to deal with some issues. I think some weathering around this join may help and the pipes that go over this should also mask things a little.

Saloon26.jpg

 

Saloon27.jpg

 

Saloon28.jpg

 

Saloon29.jpg

 

 

I now need to do a tiny bit more touching up of the painting inside, clean it, there is a lot of Araldite dust and then varnish the transfers on. Then it should be the home stretch, glazing, add the pipes and a little weathering.

 

There are some quite horrendous backs to the door detail soldering that on future builds I will file off, I did that on the Class 120 before painting it.

 

The finished coach will be OK for the layout but will be an obvious first build to me. It will be a nice coach to have though, and there are things about it I like more than the Bachmann one, especially that I built it, and also bits of detail that I added to make it a personal model.

 

Jamie

 

Edited by Jamiel
  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice work Jamie.

Just a thought. The thin yellow line..should it have a black line as well? This was more usual for BR Maroon coaches.

Baz

  • Like 1
  • Agree 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Barry

 

I had a look at a few photos. I think you are right, but I am going to leave it.

I thought the dark line on the protype photo was JPEG sharpening, the kind of contrast line you get around bright points, and it looks like the Bachmann one has such a thin black line it is barely visible.

 

The BR lining sheet I have does have black lines on the single lines, but they are thicker than in the photos below. I ordered some LMS lining to get to get this thin line.

Some models I have seen haven’t bothered with the top line. I don’t have many photos to work from so I am not sure if there was some variation in this.

 

Saloon30.jpg

 

Hopefully I will have time to do the varnish coat this afternoon, then glazing and finishing off.

 

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
  • Like 1
  • Friendly/supportive 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Still on the LMS Inspection Saloon, sprayed with matt varnish and glazed. Looking at the closeup I may have overdone the varnish, but the transfers are safe. I have done some hand weathering, but it will also have a little more done and then a very fine spray with track dirt. I need to get a couple 8BA nuts and bolts to hold the body to the chassis and then do the piping and handrail and it will be there.

 

Interesting comparing it to a blue Bachmann version. I haven’t done the windscreen wipers as the photo I was working from didn’t have them, but then I haven’t added the cross bar you can see in the above photo. It may need a bit of tidying on the buffers looking at the images, and the roof will need a light spray to tone down the dark weathering patches.
 

Looking at the wipers on the Bachmann model I think those will be replaced with Extreme Etches ones, they are way too heavy.
 

Saloon31.jpg

 

Saloon32.jpg

 

Saloon33.jpg

 

Saloon34.jpg

 

Nearly there though. I am pleased with it as a first full brass kit build, but the DMUs I have done are already have better workmanship, so I am going in the right direction.


Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good Jamie.

Regards Lez.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Apologies for the lack of updates, but I have been just too busy with university work, PGCE course and preparing new lectures. I have a music video and a TV pilot show to do visual effects on coming up in the next two months as well.

 

I have done a little tinkering, but no proper modelling since August. My suspicion is that the work load will stay the same for a while and modelling may have to wait until things ease up a bit.

 

When I do modelling, I do like to really concentrate on it, so grabbing the few minutes here and there isn’t my way of working. Work will progress again, I have not lost interest, but updates may be a bit sparse.

 

Lovely to keep seeing other people’s work progressing on the forum, and a great deal of inspiration for when I do get time to concentrate on trains again.

 

Jamie

  • Like 3
  • Friendly/supportive 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

At last a little modelling. Working on the Class 120.

Adding the lighting. For the front Digitrains 2mm LEDs, filed down flat at the tip, the one at the bottom for reference.

Class120_134.jpg



Glued in place (Araldite) and a LED strip into the roof mounted on some plasticard, Evostick for this. These will have clip connectors hopefully resembling the cables between the cars to connect them to the power unit in the middle car. Sorry for the camera shake softening.

Class120_135.jpg

 

I may need to use either resistors or possible some tracing paper to make the lights less bright. I am open to suggestions. I may ask the electrical section of the forum.

 

Interior details being worked on.

Class120_136.jpg

 

Hopefully some more soon.
 

Happy new year everyone.

Edited by Jamiel
  • Like 7
  • Friendly/supportive 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You've been busy Jamie. Happy new year mate.

Regards Lez.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Which lights do you want to make less bright?

 

Cab end lights best done with resistors, as long as you can keep the diode biased.

 

Saloon lights, try some clear tape shaded with an appropriate coloured marker pen for 'tungsten' lighting, though to get IMO a prototypical light level they will only be viewable with room lights dimmed/off; these things were never that bright :)

  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, leopardml2341 said:

Which lights do you want to make less bright?

 

Cab end lights best done with resistors, as long as you can keep the diode biased.

 

Saloon lights, try some clear tape shaded with an appropriate coloured marker pen for 'tungsten' lighting, though to get IMO a prototypical light level they will only be viewable with room lights dimmed/off; these things were never that bright :)


Thanks for that. The interior strip is off-white/yellowish, so hopefully tracing paper will do the job. I am happy with a slightly yellowish interior to keep the warm brick red feel to the whole layout.

I am not great at electronics, I know to out the resistor in the positive feed to the diode, but what does 'biased' mean? I did try holding two of the resistors supplied by Digitrains in series, but it made little difference.
 

I am wondering if painting the front of the diode might be a good way to achieve the same result, but if I can get it with resistors that would be ideal.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

LEDs need a minimum voltage to start to illuminate as it were, but they 'come on' suddenly; when the diode starts to conduct (that is the forward bias point). Brightness can be controlled to a certain level after that, but without knowing the exact type of LED you have it's difficult to know what value resistors to suggest you try to give a forward current that allows the LED to switch on, but not illuminate at full brightness.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Jamiel said:

off-white/yellowish

Baking paper?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Glazing underway.

Class120_137.jpg

 

Masking the back of the lights, black enamel and fitting the dashboard.
Class120_138.jpg

 

Class120_140.jpg

 

The back of the can and the driver.

Class120_141.jpg

 

Class120_142.jpg

 

Jamie

  • Like 8
  • Friendly/supportive 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The first bit of this post is a duplicate of a post I made in the ‘Painting, Transfers and Weathering’ section of the forum.

 

I did a test using the ‘Fox TRANSFERS’ logo from the bottom of the transfers sheet. I wrecked the ‘x’ in process, but discovered that the transfers seem to stick on both sides. I hope this is permanent as I then went ahead and did the ‘first class’ and ‘first class, no smoking’ windows in the DMU unit I am working on.

Class120_143.jpg

 

As seen here. I also discovered that Fox transfers do not have a surrounding area of film, which is really good for the window work.

Class120_144.jpg

 

For doing transfers as small as this I use a bottle top for the warm water, tweezers and a scalpel.

Class120_145.jpg

 

Work on the seats and interior detailing. I am also doing tiny bits to finish the LMS Inspection Saloon.

Class120_146.jpg

 

Class120_147.jpg

 

Class120_148.jpg

 

Class120_149.jpg

 

Jamie

  • Like 7
  • Informative/Useful 2
  • Friendly/supportive 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A quick update, I brushed some dust from the inside of the unit with a large soft brush and it moved one of the 'First Class' stickers, so I don't think they are adhesive on both sides. I suspect it is just that it fried in that place, and so hold to the window rather than being stuck to it. I forget what the word is for that type of loose, but not sealed bond is.

I am wondering if I could dab a tiny bit of something like washing up liquid on the transfer that has moved to make it stick, or perhaps some watered down PVA. I would use a cocktail stick to add the tiniest amount.

Any thoughts.

I am also posted this in the thread about transfers for windows. ‘https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/150917-transfers-inside-windows-reversed/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Humbrol do something that will work it's for sticking transparent cockpit canopies can't think what it's called though. Give me a couple of mins and I'll go upstairs and have a look for you as I have one in the railway room.

Regards Lez. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Humbrol Clearfix is the chappy you want but I think a spot of decalfix will work as well.

Regards Lez.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Apologies for not posting in a while, work was busy, and now working from home is even harder, things you could do just asking someone to look at something for a second opinion take several emails and an upload.

Anyway, odd bits of work have been done on the Class 120 DMUs.

I must look up what I sealed the windows with, I think it is Pledge Clear, but it worked.

I have been adding curtains and interiors, and need to photograph some of things I have done, but here are a few images showing that a little work has been done. I also left the camera on manual after doing TV shoot, so some needed boosting a bit. If the weather warms up I will take some better photos outside.

Class120_150.jpg

 

Class120_151.jpg

 

Class120_152.jpg

 

Class120_153.jpg

 

Class120_154.jpg

 

Class120_155.jpg



Mores soon, I hope.

Jamie

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good Jamie.

Regards Lez.

  • Agree 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Getting nearer to finishing the Class 120 DMU. Sorry about the photos, the light was too dim to get them sharper.

Wiring and connectors masquerading as brake pipes between the units. Here the centre unit has the connectors glued in place with epoxy resin.

Class120_156.jpg

 

Class120_157.jpg

 

Holes have been drilled and, on the right, filed out so that the smaller connectors will fit through.

Class120_158.jpg

 

The connectors inside the body. You can also see some of the curtains cut from grey paper and glued in place in the windows.

Class120_159.jpg

 

My first attempt at corridor connectors. A template made in Photoshop and a test version on printer paper. I thought it was too thin so cut one from black car extending out the bellows a bit.

Class120_160.jpg

 

It was too wide.

Class120_161.jpg

 

I went back to the original measurements, but made it a bit taller.

Class120_162.jpg

 

More interior detailing. St Endoc’s suggestion of baking paper is an excellent idea. It will be heat resistant, but gives a lovely diffuse yellowish light. Thank you.

Class120_163.jpg

 

Finally, a photo of how the front is looking. Not really enough light to take decent photos, so I will try and get some natural light shots of it soon.

Class120_164.jpg

 

This weekend is always my main show visit to York, which I don’t think I have ever missed since I got back into the hobby. I hoped to see the Wizard Models stand for the last time before they go fully mail order and say ‘thank you’ for all the advice and lovely things I have bought over the years. I will still do so, but no longer face to face.

 

I hope everyone is keeping safe and well, and I suspect that as a group being cooped up is something that railway modellers can cope with better than many others, apart from missing the shows.

 

Jamie

 

 

 

  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some views of the two driving cars as they currently are. The light is much darker than I expected so the photos are not great sorry. I should have used a tripod.

 

The driving motor brake is nearly there apart from needing transfers and weathering. The Driving motor second is the same but still needs the interior seats adding.

 

You can see the wires which hopefully will look like brake cables sitting out.

Class120_165.jpg

 

Class120_166.jpg

 

Class120_167.jpg

 

Class120_168.jpg

 

Here is the trailer second still waiting to eb glazed and detailed.

Class120_169.jpg

 

I have made connector bellows, but as I have read elsewhere, they need to be cut down a bit. Roughly connected with a couple of Kadees. What do people think about using the end pieces on what will be a permanently coupled set of coaches?

Class120_170.jpg

 

Class120_171.jpg

 

Think I might use the tripod next time and get better photos.

Jamie

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you go with a tripod Jamie, get a remote shutter switch as well. It's well worth the extra expense. I use mine all the time for astrophotography you'll see why if you get one.  

Regards Lez. 

  • Informative/Useful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I added an extra nut to the front of one of the driving units to keep the chassis tight.

Class120_173.jpg

 

Class120_174.jpg

 

Class120_175.jpg

 

Glazing and lighting the centre car. I had to use a hacksaw to cut down the very ends of the Replica Railways chassis as the connectors were further in than I expected.

Class120_176.jpg

 

‘No Smoking’ signs added to the windows and sealed with Pledge Clear floor gloss which is apparently the current version of ‘Klear’ as recommended on Tony Wright’s thread.

Class120_177.jpg

 

Class120_178.jpg

 

As the drive unit sits up the interior doors and other details will just be the upper half, I hope the lights don’t show this up too much.

Class120_179.jpg

 

On with a TV show this next week as well as uni marking so modelling will take a back seat to work.

 

Jamie

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.