garethashenden Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 Thanks Nick, I’ll try that. I think I’ll put the screws between the bogies, otherwise they would fowl on the bogie sideframes. Should be able to keep them out of sight. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post Alex Duckworth Posted January 21, 2020 RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted January 21, 2020 The first of my Harton engines, No 10. Alex. 17 1 16 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 2 hours ago, Alex Duckworth said: The first of my Harton engines, No 10. Alex. That's amazing Alex. How are you planning on motorising it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Alex Duckworth Posted January 22, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 22, 2020 11 hours ago, -missy- said: That's amazing Alex. How are you planning on motorising it? Hello Julia, thanks. I've got an idea for a chassis that has a 6mm motor driving one axle with a gear train driving the other. I think that it should all fit in and leave enough room for a DCC chip, and I intend to use the same chassis with a little lengthening and a larger motor for the other two engines (nos. 13 and 15). 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisveitch Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 On 21/01/2020 at 18:45, Alex Duckworth said: The first of my Harton engines, No 10. Alex. You do like your North-Eastern electrics, don't you, Alex? Lovely work as usual (I presume it's a shot-down Judith Edge etch) and looking forward to the rest of them. Since my office is on the site of Harton Staithes I'll be interested to see what you're going to run it/them on... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Alex Duckworth Posted January 23, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 23, 2020 2 hours ago, chrisveitch said: You do like your North-Eastern electrics, don't you, Alex? Lovely work as usual (I presume it's a shot-down Judith Edge etch) and looking forward to the rest of them. Since my office is on the site of Harton Staithes I'll be interested to see what you're going to run it/them on... Hello Chris - I do like them, they are so wonderfully ugly and businesslike. It is one of Mike's 2mm etches, excellent as usual, hopefully nos. 13 and 15 will be as enjoyable to build. I'm currently working on a small layout that whilst not being an exact reproduction of the Harton system will (I hope) be representative of parts of it, including the curved incline up to the headshunt then to the staithes. I've got a baseboard and Keith Armes has built me some super turnouts (I don't like making track, hence I'm not very good at it) so I'm well on the way. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Hendreladis Posted January 23, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted January 23, 2020 I had a Terrier chassis that I had built a few years ago. After finding a Judith Edge J63 in the gloat box I attempted a quickie caricature. It'll suffice as a colliery shunter to back up the Peckett. Didn't like the miserable little boiler on the J63 so jacked things up to allow space for a bit more lead. Despite the diminutive size it is heavier than a Farish pannier running on an association underframe. While not strictly correct it would be possible to use the association Terrier kit, 7mm wheels and a 7mm motor as basis for a proper J63 as wb is correct. The motor sits very low in the body. If I can now locate the rest of the terrier chassis bits I'll finish off the brakegear . . . 21 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR18901910 Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 1 hour ago, Hendreladis said: I had a Terrier chassis that I had built a few years ago. After finding a Judith Edge J63 in the gloat box I attempted a quickie caricature. It'll suffice as a colliery shunter to back up the Peckett. Didn't like the miserable little boiler on the J63 so jacked things up to allow space for a bit more lead. Despite the diminutive size it is heavier than a Farish pannier running on an association underframe. While not strictly correct it would be possible to use the association Terrier kit, 7mm wheels and a 7mm motor as basis for a proper J63 as wb is correct. The motor sits very low in the body. If I can now locate the rest of the terrier chassis bits I'll finish off the brakegear . . . Interesting locomotives! How on earth did you make kits like these so small? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 3 hours ago, Hendreladis said: I had a Terrier chassis that I had built a few years ago. After finding a Judith Edge J63 in the gloat box I attempted a quickie caricature... Did you turn the buffers yourself or buy them? If the latter I would you divulge where from please: I need some similar part tapered buffers for a current project. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted January 24, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 24, 2020 Very nice work, I like the industrialised J63. The Hunslet buffers should be parallel though, not tapered. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John57sharp Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 That’s a really nice loco. well done. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Square Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 9 hours ago, richbrummitt said: Did you turn the buffers yourself or buy them? If the latter I would you divulge where from please: I need some similar part tapered buffers for a current project. Like these? 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendreladis Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 Exactly like those! Thirty minutes of gloat box rummaging confirms it. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Square Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 35 minutes ago, Hendreladis said: Thirty minutes of gloat box rummaging confirms it. They were near the top then? 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendreladis Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 12 hours ago, Yorkshire Square said: They were near the top then? The clue is in the name. My 'gloat' cabinet is all carefully sorted so I can see everything that is in there... Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendreladis Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 You've only got one gloat cabinet? And it is well organised? And you can actually find stuff? But that would make you productive. Wish I was able to work in a tidier way. Your approach sounds brilliant. Painted the J63 tonight. Another nightmare. Shame I can't re-run 'the horror, the horror' again. Now I remember why I never finish things . . . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBS Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 (edited) A (belated) Happy New Year to you all. This is technically what is on my 2mm Workbench, but that all depends on how the sentence is parsed. It is my version of Steve Dacosta's excellent 3D printed 43xx on the Dapol Grange chassis, with something else. Here is a bit more context And now the Full Monty - the Lego Technic Liebherr 9800 face shovel. This was a Christmas present to myself and was great fun to build. The original looks like a block of flats on caterpillar tracks, the model is also huge. It is powered by seven motors and controlled by Bluetooth from iPhone or Android devices. All very impressive and a change from 2mm stuff. Best wishes, John Edited January 25, 2020 by JohnBS Extra info 14 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 That is serious Lego, that is!! Two of my grandchildren (5 & 9) are into Lego in a big way, but not that big!! Jim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post -missy- Posted February 1, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted February 1, 2020 Getting there... 22 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Your work gave me confidence that I may be able to achieve something similar with my little engine although in a slightly bigger track gauge (5 mm). The rear two axles will drive the front two by coupling rods. I wonder if this is feasible. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Looks like a good start Valentin. I personally would just power a single set of wheels though. The coupling rods should easily do the rest. Julia 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Two observations. 1) That will only give you a reduction of 14:1 (14:1 worm x 17:20 x 20:17) if I am reading it correctly. It would be better if you swapped the 17t gear onto the worm shaft with the 20t as the idler. That would give you 14:1 x 20:17 X 1(20:20), c16.5:1. 2) There doesn't appear to be much clearance between the wormwheel and the idler gear shaft muff, especially if what you have drawn is the idler gear shaft. One way round that would be to put the 17t on the wormwheel shaft and use a slightly larger idler gear, though that then negates some of the reduction if 20t is the largest you can put on the axles as the extra reduction you would get here would be cancelled out by an increase in rotation speed between this larger idler and the 20t's on the axles. It would also push the worm slightly further back. Jim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 (edited) I forgot to mention that this is not a "split-chassis" design, so no muffs - the brass gears are soldered directly to the steel axles. All axles are 1.5 mm in diameter apart from the one supporting the worm gear which is 2 mm. The reduction is 16.5:1 and the wheels are 5 mm in diameter. I came up with another arrangement, which gives an overall reduction of just over 26:1. I'm not sure if this is a better design though. Another option to further increase the overall reduction would be to use pulleys. Edited February 3, 2020 by Valentin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 Certainly a better reduction, Valentin, but it looks as though there is an interference between the motor and the worm and not much room for the worm shaft bearings. Could you move the motor forward, putting the 16t and 30t gears on the other side of the worm, in between the two rear axles? This would also keep the cab clearer of gears. Just an arrangement that might be worth exploring. Jim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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