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nick_bastable

Whats on your 2mm Work bench

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People will remember the GW 43XX posted on here recently by John Birkett-Smith. I was kindly given one of these excellent printed bodies by Jerry Clifford, so here is the start that I've made. I decided to use a Dapol Grange rolling chassis from DCC Supplies as a base and merge it with one of the Association's Chris Higgs etched 61XX chassis. The wheels will have 2FS rims fitted, that's the next job to do.

KeithIMG_1802.JPG.e5625624ea63041f12e9240770852d9c.JPGIMG_1793.JPG.2b8f23f242569f6379759f340cb57fdd.JPGIMG_1792.JPG.9f1fb643e9b2e58f761086c79e10851e.JPG

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2 hours ago, keitharmes said:

People will remember the GW 43XX posted on here recently by John Birkett-Smith. I was kindly given one of these excellent printed bodies by Jerry Clifford, so here is the start that I've made. I decided to use a Dapol Grange rolling chassis from DCC Supplies as a base and merge it with one of the Association's Chris Higgs etched 61XX chassis. The wheels will have 2FS rims fitted, that's the next job to do.

KeithIMG_1802.JPG.e5625624ea63041f12e9240770852d9c.JPGIMG_1793.JPG.2b8f23f242569f6379759f340cb57fdd.JPGIMG_1792.JPG.9f1fb643e9b2e58f761086c79e10851e.JPG

 

A lovely start there! :D

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A quick update on my 3D printed Dia 248D third coach. I've painted up the bogies and underframe gubbings and lined out the coach body.

 

20200317_184504-1.jpg.65c281afcd4fbd44707fc134a0566e28.jpg

 

20200317_184747-1.jpg.e09d778eaf6e8d6890c91b1b0971eb66.jpg

 

20200317_184759-1.jpg.b32ff8e685e42dc4f5d349b538effcd4.jpg

 

Still some work to do but I'm enjoying how this one is coming together.

 

I've also test printed a 58'6" buffet car body. The originals were converted by the LNER from ex-GN open thirds and this one will run with the third as part of the five coach Cambridge Buffet Express.

 

20200317_184906-1.jpg.e43f8a46dcd562f37b6d6150d9c91d8b.jpg

 

20200317_184914-1.jpg.8c0524681748dd169f942e3fe411fa73.jpg

 

 

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Not a very good picture but I have strengthened the rail at the top of the cab with some wire as they are very fragile 

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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, keitharmes said:

People will remember the GW 43XX posted on here recently by John Birkett-Smith. I was kindly given one of these excellent printed bodies by Jerry Clifford, so here is the start that I've made. I decided to use a Dapol Grange rolling chassis from DCC Supplies as a base and merge it with one of the Association's Chris Higgs etched 61XX chassis. The wheels will have 2FS rims fitted, that's the next job to do.

KeithIMG_1802.JPG.e5625624ea63041f12e9240770852d9c.JPGIMG_1793.JPG.2b8f23f242569f6379759f340cb57fdd.JPGIMG_1792.JPG.9f1fb643e9b2e58f761086c79e10851e.JPG

 

Well that's an interesting approach!

 

You didn't try to reuse the Grange cylinders then?

 

Chris

Edited by Chris Higgs
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Not 2mm, but has used my modelling skills.

 

The wet winter has not been kind to the sill of my wife's VW Golf. First thoughts were to fibreglass it, but I was not sure how to form a smooth profile. So I hopped down the local model store and picked up some 10 thou brass sheet which I formed and angle in in a wood vise, and then curved the rest using my rolling mill. Fits nice and snug. And I discovered you can indeed cut 10 thou brass with scissors and get a pretty nice cut!

 

But just in case you are wondering why I am posting this I am looking for some ideas of how to fix the brass to the sill, which has a coat of what seems to be some sort of plasticised paint. Impact adhesive?

 

502549789_brassinsert.jpg.42b18cc53d4b022d40d3af572ffeaca2.jpg255944281_rustingsill.jpg.1f5044f4c762a6c072f16319d6e4fb7b.jpg837799924_insertinplace.jpg.932fea806cf951c6ddcaaddcfab2f8b3.jpg

Chris

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Posted (edited)

Could you overfill the hole with filler and generously coat the area around it and then press the metal into place over that allowing the excess filler to squeeze out and fill the gap between the brass and the sill?

 

Jim (who knows nothing about these things)

Edited by Caley Jim
Spelling correction

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5 hours ago, keitharmes said:

The wheels will have 2FS rims fitted, that's the next job to do.

 

I'm especially interested in how the work is held to prepare the wheels for fitting replacement tyres since I've planned to try and achieve the same thing with a Farish Castle. I have seen the article on WD in MRJ but it's not quite clear to me still. 

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Hi Chris,

 

I only bought a basic chassis from DCC Supplies, just the metal chassis with wheels and gears. I wanted to use as much of your etched chassis as possible, in fact, I originally only intended to use the Dapol chassis as a gearbox and drive unit but then thought 'Why not use the whole of the Dapol frame'.

Keith

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1 hour ago, richbrummitt said:

 

I'm especially interested in how the work is held to prepare the wheels for fitting replacement tyres since I've planned to try and achieve the same thing with a Farish Castle. I have seen the article on WD in MRJ but it's not quite clear to me still. 

 

Keith already did precisely that conversion, I think.

 

I too am intrigued at exactly how to turn the terrible metal these RTR loco wheels are made from.

 

Chris

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18 minutes ago, Chris Higgs said:

 

Keith already did precisely that conversion, I think.

 

I too am intrigued at exactly how to turn the terrible metal these RTR loco wheels are made from.

 

Chris

 

He did and we got some details, for which I am grateful. I think he replaced the wheels with association ones in using a Nigel Ashton chassis block designed for the Manor, modifiable for the Hall (and by extension if you're Keith the Castle). 

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9 hours ago, keitharmes said:

Hi Chris,

 

I only bought a basic chassis from DCC Supplies, just the metal chassis with wheels and gears. I wanted to use as much of your etched chassis as possible, in fact, I originally only intended to use the Dapol chassis as a gearbox and drive unit but then thought 'Why not use the whole of the Dapol frame'.

Keith

 

Keith - you know that we are all going to want one of these 43xx's when you have finished  - haha!!

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8 hours ago, Chris Higgs said:

 

I too am intrigued at exactly how to turn the terrible metal these RTR loco wheels are made from.

 

Chris


As far as I can determine they are nickel plated Mazak castings. So nice sharp tools and very fine cuts at slower speeds to prevent snagging and distortion/breaking of the spokes/rims, especially when cutting them edge-on rather than the front/back faces.

 

Izzy

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4 hours ago, Izzy said:


As far as I can determine they are nickel plated Mazak castings. So nice sharp tools and very fine cuts at slower speeds to prevent snagging and distortion/breaking of the spokes/rims, especially when cutting them edge-on rather than the front/back faces.

 

Izzy

I've done about a dozen conversions using the rim replacement method and none of them have had a problem with the metal of the wheels That's Dapol and Farish. As Izzy says, sharp tools and gentle cuts. Don't try to solder to them though. They don't take solder, and somebody wrote that it can cause the Mazak to crumble.

Keith

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How to support the wheel or axle assembly in the lathe? 

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48 minutes ago, keitharmes said:

I've done about a dozen conversions using the rim replacement method and none of them have had a problem with the metal of the wheels That's Dapol and Farish. As Izzy says, sharp tools and gentle cuts. Don't try to solder to them though. They don't take solder, and somebody wrote that it can cause the Mazak to crumble.

Keith

 

An article on Keith's Castle conversion for 2mmKiwi using the Nigel Ashton chassis block is in the next MRJ but this uses Association wheels. Ive asked, and Keith has kindly agreed, to convert another using the replacement rim method and write it up for a future MRJ so if there are particular questions you have you can post them here and we can make sure they are covered in the article. To accompany it I am doing a Castle using the original Farish chassis with Association conversion etch and Association wheels so we will then have three different ways to skin a Castle.

Keith's will also use the Farish tender wheels turned down but mine will have a replacement tender chassis (and tender) weighted off the rear of the loco so all bases will be covered.

 

Jerry

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“three different ways to skin a Castle.“
Maybe ‘storm a Castle’ or if your rate of progress is slow, then ‘lay siege to a Castle’.

 

Maybe too much time on my hands...

Tim

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1 hour ago, CF MRC said:

“three different ways to skin a Castle.“
Maybe ‘storm a Castle’ or if your rate of progress is slow, then ‘lay siege to a Castle’.

 

Maybe too much time on my hands...

Tim

Too much time on our hands looks like being a feature of all our lives, Tim.

 

Richard, I'm planning on doing a few notes and a photo or two before any MRJ article.

 

Keith

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22 hours ago, keitharmes said:

Too much time on our hands looks like being a feature of all our lives, Tim.

 

Richard, I'm planning on doing a few notes and a photo or two before any MRJ article.

 

Keith

Just three pictures of Castle wheels preparation. The first pic shows 'After, Before and a Dapol wheel for comparison. The Farish wheel has spokes the same depth as FS, so machining away the thicker rim leaves it OK at the back, pic 2. Machining from the inside outwards leaves any burrs on the outside, easy to remove with a touch with a file. It is then chucked by the bearing spigot, 3mm dia, and the rim taken back by 0.2mm. If you are replacing the coupling rods, then the coupling rod boss can be machined back at the same time. Finally, the outside diameter is machined down to suit the 2FS rim. Remove any burrs, pic 3.

Keith

IMG_1813.JPG

IMG_1814.JPG

IMG_1815.JPG

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7 hours ago, keitharmes said:

Just three pictures of Castle wheels preparation. The first pic shows 'After, Before and a Dapol wheel for comparison. The Farish wheel has spokes the same depth as FS, so machining away the thicker rim leaves it OK at the back, pic 2. Machining from the inside outwards leaves any burrs on the outside, easy to remove with a touch with a file. It is then chucked by the bearing spigot, 3mm dia, and the rim taken back by 0.2mm. If you are replacing the coupling rods, then the coupling rod boss can be machined back at the same time. Finally, the outside diameter is machined down to suit the 2FS rim. Remove any burrs, pic 3.

Keith

 

 

If I'm not mistaken:

Step one looks like boring and basically removes the flange. 

Step two depends on the spigot being concentric to the axle - is it? This is where Nick got caught out with his WD if I recall correctly. 

 

I feel like I have the information to be comfortable having a go at this now. I can at least fall back on some association wheels if I go badly wrong and it will be worth the learning experience. Thank you so much for sharing.

 

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8 hours ago, richbrummitt said:

 

If I'm not mistaken:

Step one looks like boring and basically removes the flange. 

Step two depends on the spigot being concentric to the axle - is it? This is where Nick got caught out with his WD if I recall correctly. 

 

I feel like I have the information to be comfortable having a go at this now. I can at least fall back on some association wheels if I go badly wrong and it will be worth the learning experience. Thank you so much for sharing.

 

The spigot IS the bearing surface that the wheel runs on. So its important that that is the part used to hold the wheel when turning the outside diameter. The axle just holds the wheels apart, so to speak, and takes no part in the accuracy of running. The first step is turning the original flange off, not boring.

Keith

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12 hours ago, richbrummitt said:

Step two depends on the spigot being concentric to the axle - is it? This is where Nick got caught out with his WD if I recall correctly. 

 

They were concentric, but some of them had a slight taper.

 

The concentricity problem I had was to do with the plastic tubes that hold and insulate the axles in the spigots.

When I put the wheels back onto their axles, the pairs of wheels were no longer concentric with each other, and I needed to make new plastic inserts.

 

Nick.

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21 hours ago, keitharmes said:

Just three pictures of Castle wheels preparation. The first pic shows 'After, Before and a Dapol wheel for comparison. The Farish wheel has spokes the same depth as FS, so machining away the thicker rim leaves it OK at the back, pic 2. Machining from the inside outwards leaves any burrs on the outside, easy to remove with a touch with a file. It is then chucked by the bearing spigot, 3mm dia, and the rim taken back by 0.2mm. If you are replacing the coupling rods, then the coupling rod boss can be machined back at the same time. Finally, the outside diameter is machined down to suit the 2FS rim. Remove any burrs, pic 3.

Keith

IMG_1813.JPG

IMG_1814.JPG

IMG_1815.JPG

 

So it looks like a slightly different approach will be needed for a Dapol wheel as the spokes are the full thickness of the wheel?

 

Chris

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My Pannier is just about done - the model is an whitemetal casting. I added some detail (such as bars over the rear windows and the toolbox on the footplate) - but there really wasn't much detail to work with!

 

aBf9DRE.png

 

My focus was on finishing, rather than improving too much - next time I would add more pipework around the cab, a new smokebox handle and some vacuum pipes. Maybe they're still to come? :)

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