Lacathedrale

Having struggled with the 2mm Association finetrax pegged turnout construction I was a little apprehensive about the trio of british finescale turnouts I bought in N - but my first has gone together like an absolute dream. Like many I decided to solder the wing rails and the vee, but otherwise is constructed as rote: My second will be the two turnouts above sharing a straight stock rail which I believe should be fairly straightforward.

There may be no other way around it given the underlying application, but it seems there are so many sub-menus and steps between having a plan on the trackpad and then having the timbers and chairs printed it feels so far away for from being simple or usable to me, someone who has used Templot for years - let alone a beginner who doesn't know their slide from their snake.

Feels like 3D printing is such a game-changer for S-Scale!

I've used standard white/red/grey primer and then painted over with both enamels and acrylics with no problem. I believe the 'plastic primer' is more flexible and less likely to crack. I was specifically referring to the 'car aerosol' range in my original question which seems to have been answered. I guess we'll find out when I slather enamel thinners over the thing and it explodes in my hands :)

Thank you all - I've realised I haven't yet got transfers on the model so that needs to happen before weathering, but seems like it should be a relatively straightforward job. Cheers! William

I thought I replied @micklner - the paint doesn't specify enamel or acrylic anywhere on the can but googling 'halfords car spray aerosol' leads me to believe it may be acrylic. Ideally i'd like to slather the thing in dirty brown oil washes after transfers (with which I'll coat with future floor polish @sulzer27jd for sure) Thank you both @Izzy and @97406 - I'll try some oil/enamel on a test piece first, last thing I want to do is ruin the finish after it's taken me this long to put together!

Halfords Rover Brooklands Green aerosol

Good morning all, I've just broken out my long stored Rover Brooklands Green to paint up a Class 08 - but due to the chunky detail and high gloss finish it's looking a bit more like a Tonka truck than a model (NB: the body components are resting in place, rather than fixed - like the roof): I am reassured that with some light weathering and washes over it, it should bed down nicely. Before I ruin the paintjob on a model with such a lengthy gestation though, I thought I'd double check: once it's cured (not dried) then I'm fine to go over it with acrylic washes, paints and transfers - but if I want to use enamels or oils then I'll need to give it a coat of varnish first, to stop them reacting? That last step is a bit annoying because I want a gloss finish so the washes pool correctly anyway!

I think it a crying shame that you're no longer interested in 3D printing - something about the physical models is so satisfying.

How common was it for 08's repainted into green to retain their 13xxx numbers? I see Graham Farish offer one such, but not sure if that's a singleton...

I bought two wagons (NE flat, NE 5-plank) and the BR shunter, but then found a carrier bag full of track including a pair of points, so went back and picked up four teak 4w coaches (brake-comp-comp-brake) and a tender variant of the loco in LNER apple green. Unfortunately the track is really a bit knackered. The 1' diameter curves put the willies up both locos so I'll need an alternative solution to what I got, though - ideally something that doesn't give everyone tetanus...

I came back from the Sussex vintage train convention with this, “for Daughter” ;)

I mean two bi-colour LEDs, - I already updated to say that switching the resistors to the cathode side of each split feed resulted in success. the red/white colours in my diagram were just illustrative.

@Dagworth they are currently in parallel: Although, I wonder if I need to move the LEDs to be on the cathode side of the wire join? I can't see how that would matter though! EDIT: I moved the resistors to the supply-side of the join and it seems to work fine now - my brain hurts.

@Edwin_m yes - reverse current changes the colour. If I switch BOTH wires around then I get a white LED which can be toggled by direction, @Mol_PMB - so not sure it can be that. The only permutation I can't get is one red and one white!