RMweb Gold Rannoch Moor Posted March 11, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 11, 2014 Will, Just discovered this - great work on bashing these locos. can't wait to see how your Glen will turn out. Sure it will be a smasher. Must get my K2 (Loch Treig) painted now it's finished. Gus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 Cheers Gus. I can't wait so see how the K2 turns out as I been watching your build with interest. Will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 Grabbed some time tonight & fitted splashers (soldered) & Chimney, Dome & safety valves (glued with epoxy). Almost every casting I've used so far has needed quite a bit of 'adjustment' to get it anything like correct & I regret not replacing the cab roof with a brass one, as I think the over high roof affects the visual balance of the thing. I think I'll be trying the PDK D34 next time. DSC02025 by will5210, on Flickr DSC02024 by will5210, on Flickr Cheers 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 A few more details added. Hand rails always seem to be a big step forward. I decided to replace to moulded smokebox door handle with a bit of wire & long handrail knobs. DSC02028 by will5210, on Flickr DSC02029 by will5210, on Flickr cheers 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 Hi all. I've indulged myself with a little cheque book modelling this week in the form of a Nucast K2 'Loch Rannoch'. It wasn't dirt cheap, but considering the price unbuilt kits have been going for recently it was decent value. It's been put together pretty nicely, though I will need to change the cab to a side window version for my 1939 based layout ('Loch Rannoch' went north in 1924 but only received its side window cab in 1934). Its arrival has, however, allowed me a first glimpse at the classic West Highland combination of K2 leading D34. DSC02032 by will5210, on Flickr Cheers 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 Further detailing progress. New bufferbeam & cylinder cover from brass. Pipework from 1mm brass rod. Cab handrails bent up from .45 brass. DSC02033 by will5210, on Flickr DSC02036 by will5210, on Flickr I've decided to adapt the Hornby T9 bogie as it's a lot nicer than the Triang one, but this does mean shortening it. NEM pocket will be removed when I find a decent prototype picture. DSC02038 by will5210, on Flickr Cheers 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 New frames cut from 5 thou brass & soldered on. Rivet heads were formed by lightly tapping with a screw from the back. Modded bogie (see above) is sat underneath to see the effect & I think it's much better. (Often a weak area in RTR models in my opinion) The clearances are all a bit tight even after I shaved a little from the Hornby bogie wheel rims, so I'll take a little more off the brass & order Gibson bogie wheels tomorrow when I order tender wheels. DSC02042 by will5210, on Flickr DSC02041 by will5210, on Flickr Cheers 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted March 26, 2014 Author Share Posted March 26, 2014 More detailing. Scratchbuilt Lamp irons & fuse wire bits from the smokebox (not sure what they're for!) Argh!!!-Cruel close-ups!!! Will PS (Thanks to Yahoo for ruining Flickr) 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted March 27, 2014 Author Share Posted March 27, 2014 Gibson bogie & tender wheels arrived & make quite a difference I think. I'll make a start on the tender tomorrow & this weekend. Cheers 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted March 29, 2014 Author Share Posted March 29, 2014 (edited) Hi all. It was tender time today & I got most of it done today with just a few details remaining. Firstly though I scratchbuilt a basic chassis last night from 12 thou brass with homemade L shaped spacers (forgot to take a picture of this though). It runs ok but I think it'll benefit from having bearings fitted so I'll order some next week. Then this afternoon it was on with the body, and as with the rest of the kit quite a bit of fettling was needed to get a decent fit of the parts. I'm quite happy with the outcome, though I may live to regret not replacing the coal rails as the cast ones are minging. Please note it's sat a little low, as its on the old bogie wheels at the moment to save the new Gibsons from nasty flux. Handrails, Buffers, coupling & pick ups still to do. Cheers Edited March 29, 2014 by will5210 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingfisher24 Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Hi all. It was tender time today & I got most of it done today with just a few details remaining. Firstly though I scratchbuilt a basic chassis last night from 12 thou brass with homemade L shaped spacers (forgot to take a picture of this though). It runs ok but I think it'll benefit from having bearings fitted so I'll order some next week. Then this afternoon it was on with the body, and as with the rest of the kit quite a bit of fettling was needed to get a decent fit of the parts. I'm quite happy with the outcome, though I may live to regret not replacing the coal rails as the cast ones are minging. Please note it's sat a little low, as its on the old bogie wheels at the moment to save the new Gibsons from nasty flux. Handrails, Buffers, coupling & pick ups still to do. Cheers Very nice indeed, I find that you get an even better look if you remove the rear section of the tender rail and replace with n/silver or brass wire. You noted that the clearances are very tight at the front end, i had to do a little cheat and fit 26mm drivers to give a little extra height, and slighly smaller bogie wheels. did you make it work with the correct 24mm drivers. the larger drivers aren't to apparent but I know that they are the wrong size. I am now working on a second and third Glen. was going to get the new gem chassis but, a friend did this and the chassis is dire so the trusty triang chassis works just as well. its just a shame that the cab gets filled by the X04. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 Hi Kingfisher, your Glen looks great & I couldn't tell your driving wheels are slightly oversize. Since my last post I did in fact decide to fit brass tender rails and have ordered the bits from Mainly trains which should be here today when I get home - Your pictures have re-enforced my opinon that I've made the correct decision! Only time will tell if there is enough clearance at the front end. I plan to have reasonable generous curves on my layout so it's fingers crossed for now. That's also interesting to hear about the Gem chassis being a dud as I planned on trying one for my next D34. I'm in two minds to try a PDK version next, or fit the motor from the latest Hornby B12 to another Triang 4-4-0 chassis which might give me a clearer cab space. Can you tell me how you fitted the loco brakes? (Another job on the to-do list!) They make a difference to the overall look I think. Cheers Will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45568 Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Kingfisher, Which Gem chassis did your friend use? Was it an original Gem whitemetal effort, which was indeed dire!, or the etched chassis now sold by the people who market Gem loco. kits and other products? I have been following this build as I have a 'new' Gem body kit for the Glen. cheers, Peter C. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOCJACOB Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Long time ago when did some 4mm made one of these chaps. 100% agree the white metal chassis was dire but as I recall sweated 2 pieces of brass together and used the white metal chassis as template for frame shape and axle holes etc Lots of shaping and sawing and then un-sweated two sides with relevant holes in appropriate places. Used the original white metal blobs included in the kit to space the frames. Clearly not museum quality but quite acceptable at the time One other issue from memory is the shape of cab side lining varied between locomotives. Some rectangular, some following coupling rod slasher. Currently half asleep so can't remember which was Cowlairs and which Inverurie. Otherwise a very nice build Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted April 3, 2014 Author Share Posted April 3, 2014 More tender work Cast Tender rails replaced with 0.7mm wire for the rails & 5 thou for the vertical bits. A lot of solder still to clean up! Cheers 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 ....was going to get the new gem chassis but, a friend did this and the chassis is dire ..... .....also interesting to hear about the Gem chassis being a dud as I planned on trying one for my next D34.... Kingfisher, Which Gem chassis did your friend use? Was it an original Gem whitemetal effort, which was indeed dire!, or the etched chassis now sold by the people who market Gem loco. kits and other products? .... There is a more up-to-date D34 chassis option, if you need it.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted April 4, 2014 Author Share Posted April 4, 2014 There is a more up-to-date D34 chassis option, if you need it.... The problem with that will be the Gem body is designed around the Triang chassis which is a few mil too long in the coupled wheelbase for a scale Glen. Neat looking bit of kit though. I intend to copy the brake arrangement (where I can) on the chassis I'm using. I also have a new style Hornby D49 chassis which I intended to rewheel & use originally for this Glen, but I may use for the next one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingfisher24 Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Glen Chassis The chassis a fellow modeller used is the new etched brass chassis from GEM, he showed me the chassis and told me he had to do a large amount of hacking at both the body and chassis to make the two fit together - on top of that the loco sits too high (at least the thickness of the running plate) also the tender wheelbase of the new chassis kit has the wrong wheel base for the glen tender and he ended up using a spare djh tender chassis. I have not built the new kit for the chassis - I personally prefer using a rtr chassis where possible - but after my friend showed me and told me what he had to do to make it work, I think I will stich with the Triang/Hornby chassis as at least this sits at the correct height. A quick question while I am on about Glens - did the glens have grab handles above the running plate steps - I see in the loco that I am building that there are holes in the frames above the running plate but am not sure if there were handles immediately above the steps? Keep the kitbuilding snaps coming. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingfisher24 Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Will For the brakes I simply hacked some brakes from a spare N2 chassis bottom I had lying around. I then attached some small-thin strips of black plastikard to the chassis and then attached the bakes to the plastikard strips (both using a 2 part resin mixture (as I find all super-glues can me to brittle to withstand accidental knocks etc). I have some spare etched brakes acquired from a swapmeet for use on the Glen I am currently making but, it will be fun mounting these - I will put a snap up on this thread when I manage to do this. Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted April 4, 2014 Author Share Posted April 4, 2014 Glen Chassis The chassis a fellow modeller used is the new etched brass chassis from GEM, he showed me the chassis and told me he had to do a large amount of hacking at both the body and chassis to make the two fit together - on top of that the loco sits too high (at least the thickness of the running plate) also the tender wheelbase of the new chassis kit has the wrong wheel base for the glen tender and he ended up using a spare djh tender chassis. I have not built the new kit for the chassis - I personally prefer using a rtr chassis where possible - but after my friend showed me and told me what he had to do to make it work, I think I will stich with the Triang/Hornby chassis as at least this sits at the correct height. A quick question while I am on about Glens - did the glens have grab handles above the running plate steps - I see in the loco that I am building that there are holes in the frames above the running plate but am not sure if there were handles immediately above the steps? Keep the kitbuilding snaps coming. Yes it seems so - see below The Gem chassis doesn't sound too promising from what you say. As I said above, I have a new D49 chassis which is the correct 40mm coupled wheelbase & DCC ready so that may be the way to go. It'll still need all new wheels & a decent bogie though. Cheers for the info regarding the brakes. I've seen an idea on Adam's workbench which may work too so I'll decide which way to go over the weekend. Will. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pH Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 A quick question while I am on about Glens - did the glens have grab handles above the running plate steps - I see in the loco that I am building that there are holes in the frames above the running plate but am not sure if there were handles immediately above the steps? From illustrations in Locomotives Illustrated 96 "Reid North British 4-4-0s" (though none of them are pure 'broadside' shots), there were grab handles above the footplate steps on both sides. However, they don't look to have been centred on the steps - they look as if one end was in line with either the back edge of the steps, or with the centre of the steps, and they extended forward from there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pH Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 From illustrations in Locomotives Illustrated 96 "Reid North British 4-4-0s" (though none of them are pure 'broadside' shots), there were grab handles above the footplate steps on both sides. However, they don't look to have been centred on the steps - they look as if one end was in line with either the back edge of the steps, or with the centre of the steps, and they extended forward from there. Forget all that! It's a perspective thing, I think. There are a couple of true broadside shots of other classes, and the grab handles are centred on the steps, so I presume the Glens were the same. Sorry about that! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 This weekend's achievements were small & few: Glen tender chassis had bushes fitted & was sprayed in Railmatch weathered black Glen Tender now has handrails & buffers LOTI got its reversing lever fitted Loch Long had nameplates & worksplates fitted. 24/7 worksplates seem a bit on the big side to me K4 tender #3 got a coat of Halford's filler primer to see any imperfections, of which there were many! Cheers 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 Hi all, well the weather has been too nice & the cricket too plentiful recently to get much modelling done, but here it where I'm at with the Glen. Railmatch 'Weathered Black' has been used for the smokebox, wheels, roof & tender top with satin black for the rest. Lining is next when I get time. DSC02081 by will5210, on Flickr DSC02080 by will5210, on Flickr DSC02076 by will5210, on Flickr Cheers 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Very nice. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now