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The "underneath" is simply 1" polystyrene sheet PVA'd as necessary then melted to shape with an old soldering iron (lots of fumes, do with window open, fan on and wife out).  On top of that is plaster bandage.

 

Once that's dry I give a good covering of brown poster paint and some PVA mixed in.  On to that I sprinkle Woodland Scenics fine ground foam blend, tap down with finger and allow to dry.  When dry, turn board upside down over some newspaper to gather anything that didn't stick.

 

Next is dribbled on a layer of diluted PVA (as used for ballast) and then a static grass blend/mix is shaken on via the static grass device.  It's nominally 3-4mm length, with a few 6mm bits sprinkled in to give a little depth.

 

The longest part of the job is waiting for the glue to dry hence half an hour on the board then I go off and do something else before doing the next bit. 

 

Once I've 'grassed' I'll then start adding the detailed bits like hedges, brambles, flowers etc.

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Here's the results from tonight's testing.

 

On the :-

left WWS 6mm straw and 4mm Autumn

middle was 4mm War World Scenics 4mm Autumn

right was Busch 4mm Dark Green,

 

post-3744-0-55481300-1407529725_thumb.jpg

 

Same as above but with camera flash.

 

post-3744-0-98386400-1407529729_thumb.jpg

 

The Grass'O'Matic in person!

 

post-3744-0-77096400-1407529733_thumb.jpg

 

Dave

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I think the first one - the 50/50 mix - looks best for fields.  If everything is too uniform you risk everything looking like cricket pitches.

 

Great if you're modelling a cricket pitch of course, but not so great if you're trying to do slightly unkempt embankments.

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It's good for days when you keep getting given other jobs to do...

 

I have no-one to give me other jobs. Being single does have some advantages lol.

 

Here's the results from tonight's testing.

 

On the :-

left WWS 6mm straw and 4mm Autumn

middle was 4mm War World Scenics 4mm Autumn

right was Busch 4mm Dark Green,

 

attachicon.gifDSC05635_s.JPG

 

Same as above but with camera flash.

 

attachicon.gifDSC05637_s.JPG

 

The Grass'O'Matic in person!

 

attachicon.gifDSC05641_s.JPG

 

Dave

 

I agree with 'nut about the 50/50 mix.

 

You are both making want to get on with scenic work now and I don't even have any track laid!

 

Gary

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Slightly ahead of you then. Got the track laid and was going to start scenics, but the modular project has side tracked me!

 

My current project "Little Dunmow" on RMWeb.

 

That's the reason I just bought the static applicator. Next step, learn how to use it!

 

Dave

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The lack of track is entirely my fault though as I have got a little caught up in modifying R-T-R locos and coaches into more interesting things (I couldn't have a Hornby Caley Pug running round there are too many of those) and I keep making changes to my track plan. This means I have had a baseboard sitting around waiting for track for 6 Months!. However I have now finalised the plan and finished ordering track so it won't be long. But I think once track is laid I will start working on the modular project straight away and get that finished before I even ballast my layout.

 

Gary

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I'm the same, been working on my O gauge layout for at least 18 months - and I bought my first Slaters wagon kit in 2010 (I still haven't finished it).

 

Half the track is down and wired but being 14ft long it's a big project - and thus sometimes I can go weeks without touching it as it seems all a bit overwhelming.

 

I actually enjoy the scenic work; on this board once the grass is down and the river finished then it's technically "useable" although I plan to do a lot of detailing such as hedges, brambles etc.

 

I guess it's a bit like a 'micro layout' or a 'shunting plank' - as the end is never far away you feel spurred on to complete it whereas when you've wired up your 30th point motor and you're only half way there, you tire easily.

 

But that's enough about my modules, this is your thread. 

 

PS - you might want to look at what happens if you mix all three of those colours above for static grass... it may give an interesting mix.

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But that's enough about my modules, this is your thread.

 

I don't mind a bit of "Threadjacking" lol its still kind of on topic and reminds me that I'm not the only one taking forever lol.

 

But back on topic.

 

Hailsham module track plan V1

 

I have been sitting in front of the computer having a bit of a play in AnyRail, I haven't added any buildings yet but lets get some feedback on my initial design before I decide to just start again lol.

 

post-22762-0-54873700-1491924605_thumb.jpg

 

I have made some obvious changes to meet within the specification. The most glaring one being the right hand end.

 

The plan is 20' long and at its widest 30" wide.

 

The bridge will cross over the double track at the right hand end.

 

If anyone has AnyRail and wants a closer look you can download the plan from my website here: I have removed all the download links except the final plan

 

For anyone that doesn't have AnyRail you would be able to open the plan and have a look on the free version however you wouldn't be able to make any changes.

 

Gary

Edited by BlueLightning
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I've put the two plans side by side to help people compare.  I quite liked the original right hand end for some reason.

 

post-8328-0-88386400-1407583854_thumb.jpg

 

post-8328-0-20724600-1407583863_thumb.jpg

 

 

I don't know how easy angles are in Anyrail as I've never used it, but I wonder whether you might be able to angle the whole plan and add some curvature in on the ends which would enable you to end up with the tracks at the appropriate places but retaining the "feel" of the original?  Remember the "track at 90 degrees" part is only at the extreme ends - what happens inbetween is irrelevant.

 

I'm assuming that you are now planning on the module being one 20ft long (made up of several boards) units, rather than breaking it into "manageable chunks" per my earlier suggestion?

Edited by cromptonnut
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I will look at putting it on an angle as I also quite liked that bit and didn't really want to have to change it. Putting it on an angle just never occurred to me.

 

I still plan on "hacking it up" into manageable chunks I have done it this way with the idea that I can work out how big the chunks will be once the plan is finalised rather than feeling restricted to the size of the chunk.

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Remember you also don't have to have square boards.  Here's one I've come up with for my next board, it's a 4ft x 2ft top trimmed back, with the 18" on top and bottom sides cut as shown.  Ok so this is just a single track but it may be something you can use .

 

post-8328-0-71692900-1407584637_thumb.jpg

 

Another - possibly more practical option - may be one in Glorious NSE's post (2) in another discussion I started. 

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I wonder if your headshunt is a bit too long?  I don't know if the real thing was ever used to capacity but there was probably some sort of balance between the headshunt length and the longest siding length but without a scale plan it's hard to say.  I notice also the top siding had a gap - possibly a roadway between it and the next? - but you have drawn it adjacent.

 

Incidently, was the bottom left line curving off a junction or something else?  I'm not familiar with the prototype.

 

Rather than finding yourself restricted by "the standards", how about trying to redraw it with just the ends matching the right spot (I notice the original plan had a bit of a curve to it anyway) and then building the boards to suit the layout, rather than changingthe plan to fit the boards? 

 

Until you put your first saw to rail or wood ... everything's doable :)

 

I'll see if I can find some time inbetween scenery and other distractions to knock something up in XTrackCAD to see if I have any bright ideas.

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I did wonder about the headshunt lengh but as it was so long on the plan I thought it might be a good idea to try and replicat that but i think I could probably afford to lose a foot of it. I put the sideing adjacent to try and save some space to stop it getting to wide I was actually quite impressed that I had got it into 30" so may change that as wellUsing this OS map from 1899 it doesn't look like there was anything between them. THe road layout is still the same so I cant imagine anything was put between them although I don't have any photos of that part of the station.

1899map.gif

 

I am also unaware of what the bottom line was for. Using recent aerial photos I cant see any scaring on the land from it. The mainline on that side is the southern line to Polegate This was the only station that Hailsham connected to in that direction.

 

The only thing I can think of is that it may have been an industrial siding going to the industrial estate in that direction as I think I have read somewhere that it had a link to the railway but that could be completely wrong. If some does know then I would love to find out.

 

The only real restriction I have is that I would struggle to be able to put up any thing longer than 20' It would have to go in the garden if it was any bigger and that is on an incline of a lot more than most 00 locos are going to manage.

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If you "lost" that mystery siding to the bottom left and cut the headshunt and other siding (which seems to serve no other purpose than to serve the mystery siding?) back, could you get it into 16ft (4 x 4ft boards)?

 

I've had a dig around on http://www.old-maps.co.uk/maps.html around the area and can't see any obvious reference with various dated maps to that siding - where did you get your original track plan from?

 

I did notice an extra siding on one map above the tracks in the angled space that served a brick works.  Possible addition?

Edited by cromptonnut
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I got the original plan from HERE While to me it doesn't seem like the most reliable looking site it was the only place I could find at the time for something to copy from.

 

On the 1928 Map provided by Dave Alongside the brickworks on the siding it also says engine shed could this be an original use??

 

Also looking at the 1952 map and the placement of the houses I can say the the Brickworks area is what is now the Industrial estate I referred to earlier

 

 

Gary

Edited by BlueLightning
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I don't mind a bit of "Threadjacking" lol its still kind of on topic and reminds me that I'm not the only one taking forever lol.

 

But back on topic.

 

Hailsham module track plan V1

 

I have been sitting in front of the computer having a bit of a play in AnyRail, I haven't added any buildings yet but lets get some feedback on my initial design before I decide to just start again lol.

 

hailshamV1.jpg

 

I have made some obvious changes to meet within the specification. The most glaring one being the right hand end.

 

The plan is 20' long and at its widest 30" wide.

 

The bridge will cross over the double track at the right hand end.

 

If anyone has AnyRail and wants a closer look you can download the plan from my website here: http://www.ramblingsofageek.co.uk/railway/hailshamV1.any

 

For anyone that doesn't have AnyRail you would be able to open the plan and have a look on the free version however you wouldn't be able to make any changes.

 

Gary

 

I would move the facing crossover a bit to the left. Then you can use a simple track-only replacement left-hand sub-module when you want to link to double-track. It would need some sort of curve on it to get the double track centred at the module end.

Edited by Joseph_Pestell
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Remember you also don't have to have square boards.  Here's one I've come up with for my next board, it's a 4ft x 2ft top trimmed back, with the 18" on top and bottom sides cut as shown.  Ok so this is just a single track but it may be something you can use .

 

attachicon.gifs-bend.jpg

 

Another - possibly more practical option - may be one in Glorious NSE's post (2) in another discussion I started. 

 

That sort of arrangement will be very useful for a board where a single track becomes a double track.

 

On a conventional rectangular board, the only easy way would be to use a Y point and they are not actually that common in reality as the entrance to a loop.

Edited by Joseph_Pestell
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Few points from another local;

 

The mystery siding did indeed serve a brickworks. The AC Elliott Book 'The Cuckoo Line' is excellent and well worth buying.

 

It is the perfect prototype for 'big engine, small layout' prototypical trains. Bullied Pacifics were often used on one and two coach 'filling in' turns, on the Eastbourne-Hailsham only trains. There's a picture in aformentioned book of one with a WC in charge of a rather easy run!

 

As for what is left, the pub shown on the OS map above is still open, though it is a bit of a dive (or was last time I went in!). The Terminus/Railway Hotel on the opposite corner to the station is now a bathroom showroom unfortunatley, it was my local, played for the pool team and had some great nights there. Unfortunatley the last landlord was a cantankerous and annoyed his regulars, including me, to the point that none of us wanted to go there any more. You can certainly blame supermarkets et al for many pub closures, but not that one. The retaining wall which runs along Station Road originally held the railway up, and the Station Masters House is still standing too. The overbridge changed about 25 years ago from the original to a new construction (I'm 30, and just about remember it).

 

If it had lasted into the 80's, it would have been nothing more than a single line IMHO - in fact, if had been singled, it might still be open now! - Closing the Polegate-Hailsham stretch was a very silly idea, and even British Railways admitted it in the end. The trackbed wasn't built on until approx 1985 either.

 

I can often be found shouting in the general vicinity of the station, at least when Hailsham Town are playing. COYS!

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