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Finescaling a Farish Fairburn tank


Nig H
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Here are some pics showing how I started dismantling a Farish Fairburn tank to convert the chassis to 2mm finescale.

 

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This shows the loco dismantled. I needn't have removed the cab. The front sand pipes get in the way when removing the keeper plate and one of the pipes tried to escape. I think it will be possible to glue it back in place. The slide bars can be prised away from the back of the cylinders to help release the crosshead and piston. Wish I'd done that before bending the slide bars to release the crosshead. Anyway, with the slide bars removed it was easy enough the re-straighten them.

 

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The big lump under the keeper plate is the reversing lever rod and connecting lever. The pip on the inside holding the radius rod in place came away from the plastic moulding when I tried to separate the two parts. Fingers crossed I can insert a length of 0.3mm or so rod where the pip went, to re-attach the radius rod.

 

I've made sets of replacement valve gear, so now its just a question of mounting them on the chassis, fitting finescale wheels on Association replacement Farish bearings, soldering the return crank to the middle crankpin...........

 

I'll post more pics as I progress.

 

Nig H

Edited by Nig H
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I'm following this with interest.

 

Things haven't quite gone according to plan. I had hoped to join the connecting rod and the union link to the crosshead by crimping them under the respective stumps left on the crosshead after removing the GF motion parts. This didn't work because there wasn't enough stump left. So to Plan B. I drilled a 0.5mm hole through the crosshead connecting rod stump and attached the new connecting rod with a crankpin from the front of the crosshead, and retaining the GF disc with a crankpin washer. For the union link, I drilled a 0.35mm hole through the remnants of the union link securing stump. However, the hole in the etched union link was designed to fit over the GF stump, so was far too large for a length of 0.31mm nickel silver rod I intended to use. Luckily, I had a spare union link with small holes at either end, so I used this spare instead.

 

Anyway, after a bit of fiddling about with the separate sections of motion, I managed to assemble all the replacement bits back on the loco chassis, and they all seem to work OK. Of course the acid test will come when the driving wheels etc. are fitted to the chassis, and the return crank soldered in place on the middle driver crankpin. Fingers crossed it will work.

 

Nig H

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Some pics of the loco now fully assembled with wheels and motion painted. Next step is weathering those parts to try to blend in with the body. I very impressed with this GF model. The level and quality of detail is excellent, and the motor is so smooth and quiet.

 

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Nig H

 

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Its a lovely bit of work Nigel - I am so glad that Farish have standardized on split frame chassis now, they are such an improvement.   Could I ask whether you will be doing a replacement etch for the valve gear and pony trucks?

 

Thanks

 

Guy

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Its a lovely bit of work Nigel - I am so glad that Farish have standardized on split frame chassis now, they are such an improvement.   Could I ask whether you will be doing a replacement etch for the valve gear and pony trucks?

 

Thanks

 

Guy

Hello Guy,

 

Thanks for your comments. I will probably do an etch of parts later this year.

 

Nig H

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  • 1 month later...
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Here are some pics showing the loco basically now finished. I added N Brass Fairburn steps at the front. Plastic ones are not included in the GF model accessory pack. I'm not sure how much they restrict side play on curves.

 

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Nig H

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  • 4 months later...
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I have just finished writing instructions for a finescaling kit for this loco. Details are now available on my products page on the Association website.

 

 

Nig H

Edited by Nig H
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  • 2 years later...

Making progress with mine Nigel,fabulous etching and pleased with the results so far,even though I'm just at the tricky stage now!

I just hope it looks as good as yours by the time I'm finished!

I went for a different approach,I found it easier to disengage the motor and get the wheels set up and free running and test as much as possible that way,I think I might take the motor out again so I know the valve gear works ok ???

And I better blacken those wheels before I do anymore???

Really enjoying the learning curve of this scale,so fingers crossed I get all those tiny little bits of valve gear in the right place next......

Onwards and upwards

Best wishes

Michael

Edited by Wotan
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Making progress with mine Nigel,fabulous etching and pleased with the results so far,even though I'm just at the tricky stage now!

I just hope it looks as good as yours by the time I'm finished!

I went for a different approach,I found it easier to disengage the motor and get the wheels set up and free running and test as much as possible that way,I think I might take the motor out again so I know the valve gear works ok ???

And I better blacken those wheels before I do anymore???

Really enjoying the learning curve of this scale,so fingers crossed I get all those tiny little bits of valve gear in the right place next......

Onwards and upwards

Best wishes

Michael

Hi Michael,

 

Thanks for this. I can't think of anything wrong with your approach, probably correctly more cautious than how I did mine. Its certainly sensible to make sure one thing is right before going on to the next stage. In spite of how I did mine, the result was a really nice-running loco, one of my best. I must have been having a bit of luck when I built it!. I'd agree that painting the wheels is probably best, though you'll most likely have to spray the valve gear in situ, so you'll end up with some paint on the wheels anyway, but it should be easy enough to scrap it off the wheel treads.

 

I look forward to further progress reports.

 

Nig H

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