cromptonnut Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 I've got some of the Peco LK-62 platform edging but am struggling to figure out a way to build a 'framework' to support the platform surface. Wondered if anyone had any ideas of good ways to achieve this. Accurately cutting lots of strips isn't really much of an option for me at the moment although I'd have no issue buying some pre-made Slaters or equivalent. It's rather a long platform so attempting to cut lots of accurate strips does not appeal significant. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 you could use some machined strip wood, from such as Richard Burbidge...... Like the stuff that you get from Homebase, B&Q or similar? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 Hadn't thought of that. I'll get the ruler out then have a noseabout on the site... Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theakerr Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 I used precut balsa trimmed to width. I used the pre-cut side for the front (facing the front of my baseboard) and my trimmed side on the back. IMHO, balsa after it has been washed with dry-wall compound it paints up to look like a pretty good representation of tarmac (black-top. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 I hadn't got as far as the top surface yet but that sounds a good idea - I was wanting a framework to support "whatever" so it doesn't go all saggy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamperman36 Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 You could always use a metcalf or superquick card kit and use the peco to put the detailed platform front on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 You could always use a metcalf or superquick card kit and use the peco to put the detailed platform front on. Best idea yet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium BR60103 Posted May 15, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 15, 2015 I saw some done that had zigzag supports underneath -- removes the necessity for dead accurate cutting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted May 15, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 15, 2015 For the straight ones on Lulworth I used '2x1' planed wood from b&q which is about 1mm less than the height of the edging and then just glued an gauge ballast on as a surface. From memory the edging is 20mm and the wood 18.5-19mm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 'Nut, if it's any use, similar to Paul (above), I sometimes use planed softwood which is readily available. If you need a gentle curve, go for a width wider than you need but 1" deep. It won't actually be 1" deep, as some is lost during planing. Using a jigsaw, cut to just under the required width (it doesn't have to be a perfect cut) and allow for the edging. Fit the edging direct to the baseboard and any gaps between edging and the the softwood can be filled with decorator's caulk or grab adhesive. Once everything's dry, I seal the wood/caulk with a thin smear of PVA and then using the top of the platform edging as a guide, use a dead flat straight edge to spread a thin smear of household filler for the platform top. When dry, this can be lightly sanded and once painted, is a good representation of tarmac. It certainly saves fiddling about with card or plastic strips trying to get a rigid structure. The household filler surface may not be suitable if you wanted to represent flagstones. If building a platform on a curve, Letraset in white is dead handy for "MIND THE STEP/GAP" lettering! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theakerr Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 I cannot remember the combination but I found a couple of the evergreen strips, one on its side and one flat on top of the former to make a T, were the exact height so that the top surface, whatever you use, fitted right into the recess on the peco sides. This was so simple because all I had to do was cut multiples to length and glue. I will have a look over the weekend and see if i can find the sizes i used. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 My platform is on a fairly tight curve of around 38" radius (long story...) so it needs to be something flexible. Inch thick timber doesn't have a reputation for flexibility although some of the DIY chain lengths of wood do look rather like bananas at times. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theakerr Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Finally getting my act together after the kitchen "refresh" (Note I have been told this is different to re-modeling and doing up the kitchen). The evergreen sizes are #393 (3.2 x 12.7mm) for the upright and 2 pieces of #392 (3.2 x 11.1mm) for the T piece. Total height is then 12.7 +3.2 + 3.2 = 19.1mm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 you could use some machined strip wood, from such as Richard Burbidge......It's what I use, can be gently curved as well. I drill vertical holes, every 4 to 6 inches and tap in panel pins which hold the curve, you can PVA first along the base of the strip wood, but I use a glue gun on the inside. works well, works first time and stays put. Manages 36" curves np, and even used it to 24" on a loading bay. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.