bigdiesel Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Hi, I have had a Premi air G35 dual action airbrush sitting in my cupboard for a couple of years, I think it was a freebie when I subscribed to BRM a few years back. I bought a Iwata silverjet compressor and I gave it a go on an old bit of card with some acrylic paint which didnt really work out. It was either to thick or too thin. I tried a model car with it and ended up ruining it. I cleaned everything thouroughly and put it away. A few weeks ago I saw the weathering Video by George Dent, he made it look so easy, so I decided to have a go with some enamel.WOW what a difference, I had a go on some paper and did all the stuff he showed on the video for beginners. Anyway I digress Right my question and it might be a stupid one: On the airbrush, can you alter the amount of paint that flows through by loosening the needle chucking nut?. I am thinking that the chucking nut needs to be finger tight and the maximum amount of paint is governed simply by pulling the trigger right back. The air is put through the brush by depressing the trigger, however with the Silverjet compressor I can alter the psi by just turning it up and keeping my eye on the pressure gauge. I am thinking that for best weathering results I should be no more than 10 to 15 psi. Am I correct please? Many thanks John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoovernut Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Evening big diesel Loosening the chucking nut will not increase the amount of paint, this is determined by how far you pull the trigger back. The needle should be as far forward in the brush and yes the nut need only be finger tight. With regard to the pressure from the compressed this needs to be set whilst you have the trigger depressed. A good starting point would be between 15 - 18 psi. I will Also add that the paint consistency should be like semi skimmed milk. Finally on your travels get some old worn out models and practise and when the model is covered in paint strip it back or give it a coat on undrcoat from a rattle can. You may want to also get a book for reference , George has a book called airbrushing for railway modellers which I use all the time for reference. Have fun with your airbrush and with time you will get better. Regards Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mick Bonwick Posted July 7, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 7, 2015 Hi, I have had a Premi air G35 dual action airbrush sitting in my cupboard for a couple of years, I think it was a freebie when I subscribed to BRM a few years back. I bought a Iwata silverjet compressor and I gave it a go on an old bit of card with some acrylic paint which didnt really work out. It was either to thick or too thin. I tried a model car with it and ended up ruining it. I cleaned everything thouroughly and put it away. A few weeks ago I saw the weathering Video by George Dent, he made it look so easy, so I decided to have a go with some enamel.WOW what a difference, I had a go on some paper and did all the stuff he showed on the video for beginners. Anyway I digress Right my question and it might be a stupid one: On the airbrush, can you alter the amount of paint that flows through by loosening the needle chucking nut?. I am thinking that the chucking nut needs to be finger tight and the maximum amount of paint is governed simply by pulling the trigger right back. The air is put through the brush by depressing the trigger, however with the Silverjet compressor I can alter the psi by just turning it up and keeping my eye on the pressure gauge. I am thinking that for best weathering results I should be no more than 10 to 15 psi. Am I correct please? Many thanks John No question is stupid. Just watch out for the answers, though! The G35 is a good airbrush and you're right in thinking that components should be finger tight, especially with the higher quality devices such as this. Your combination of airbrush and compressor should benefit from a working presuure of 15-18psi for acrylics (as mentioned by hoovernut), and 20-25psi for enamels. If you're at the beginning stage then try spraying at plain white paper from different distances with varying trigger positions to determine how your airbrush works for you. Remember that it is easier to add more paint than to try and remove excess. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdiesel Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 Thanks guys, thats very helpful advice. I'm going to try with just enamels for a while, but not on my best loco's just yet. I have tried the spraying onto white paper and with lines and circles on them as well, it's not as easy as it looks!! Practice makes perfect though. Cheers John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoovernut Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 Can I also add big diesel and I'm bit trying to tell you how to #### eggs but remember when spraying to guard yourself against paint fumes. ,spray in a well ventilated area, get a mask of some kind , wear gloves etc etc. Regards Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold nickwood Posted July 10, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 10, 2015 Can I also add big diesel and I'm bit trying to tell you how to #### eggs but remember when spraying to guard yourself against paint fumes. ,spray in a well ventilated area, get a mask of some kind , wear gloves etc etc. Regards Mick and don't skimp on the cleaning after each session. Withdraw the needle through the front of the airbrush, never the rear. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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