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Dapol n guage Class 22 help


jonas

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Hi, I've just got hold of one of the great weathered blue versions of the n gauge Dapol class 22s, but I'm having trouble adding a dcc decoder. I've given it a good run in, and it behaves faultlessly on DC.

 

I've tried a Gaugemaster (dcc23 6 pin) as there didn't look like much room; running is erratic in that it either won't react to the controller, or it disappears up the test track at speed but won't stop! There is nothing from the lights.

 

Next I thought I'd try a Bachmann 6 pin as I had one In stock, but it won't fit.

 

The 2 screws holding the 6pin interface on the loco were very proud and covered in a piece of insulating tape, so I have removed these in case they were causing the decoder to not sit properly or something, but it hasn't helped.

 

Does anybody have any advice as to what might be wring, decider choice etc? Thanks!

 

Edit to add I only have a Bachmann EZ command DCC controller.

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CT Elektronik DCX75N Mini 6 pin direct decoder from DCC Supplies should do the trick.

Very good decoder, though the newer DCX76 or DCX77 might be better.

 

However, Jonas might do better in spending money on a more capable DCC system. The EZ is very basic and inadequate if expecting quality control; it only puts out 28 speed steps, the track voltage is silly high, and there is no ability to fine tune any CV settings in a decoder. I'd expect the Gaugemaster decoder to work reasonably well with some adjustment of CV values, though won't be in the league of CT Elektronik.

 

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While perhaps neither the decoder or EZ are considered the best, as the lights don't work on DCC I'd suggest double-checking the pin connection in the socket first. As pin sizes and shapes seem to vary a bit, thin/thick, square/round etc I often find I need to 'kink' the pins vertically a little bit to ensure there is a positive contact in the socket. Could be worth trying first just to make sure it's not an issue with the loco circuit board somehow as Dapol wiring looms always seem to me to resemble home grown solutions as compared to Farish circuit designs. Might be also worth fitting the Bachmann spare one without the body, again to eliminate issues with the socket and EZ.

 

Izzy

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Thanks Izzy - some good pointers to look out for. I've ordered a new decoder (I'd robbed the Guagemaster from another loco anyway!) and will check all of those when I pop it in. I'm not sure why I wrote in my post the lights didn't work - they were working fine, and controllable using the function button - I must have meant there is nothing wrong with the lights?!

I agree with you about the wiring inside - it's nowhere near as neat as in my Farish locos. Still, its a great looking loco and I suppose if the worst comes to the worst I could always remove the circuit board and hard wire the loco.

Thanks again to all who have replied!

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