jimbo Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Hi All, Can anyone tell me where I can obtain a capped screw/nut for the front bogie of my Bulleid Pacific. Here are a couple of pics to show the type I need. Thanks Chaps. Jim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Jimbo I'm not at all sure what you need. The tubular "top hat" in the upper photo appears to be the bogie pivot If it is threaded internally, I'd suggest it would screw onto the bolt that appears to be in the right place in the lower photo, but I guess it isn't as you are asking... If you took off the nut that is visible in the lower photo, would the tubular "top hat" thing fit on the bolt and be secured by the nut? Is the bogie weight carrying or does it just toddle along for the ride? Can you establish the size of the bolt - it looks 8BA but that's little more than a wild guess? HTH Simon Jimbo I'm not at all sure what you need. The tubular "top hat" in the upper photo appears to be the bogie pivot If it is threaded internally, I'd suggest it would screw onto the bolt that appears to be in the right place in the lower photo, but I guess it isn't as you are asking... If you took off the nut that is visible in the lower photo, would the tubular "top hat" thing fit on the bolt and be secured by the nut? Is the bogie weight carrying or does it just toddle along for the ride? Can you establish the size of the bolt - it looks 8BA but that's little more than a wild guess? HTH Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo Posted August 15, 2015 Author Share Posted August 15, 2015 Jimbo I'm not at all sure what you need. The tubular "top hat" in the upper photo appears to be the bogie pivot If it is threaded internally, I'd suggest it would screw onto the bolt that appears to be in the right place in the lower photo, but I guess it isn't as you are asking... If you took off the nut that is visible in the lower photo, would the tubular "top hat" thing fit on the bolt and be secured by the nut? Is the bogie weight carrying or does it just toddle along for the ride? Can you establish the size of the bolt - it looks 8BA but that's little more than a wild guess? HTH Simon Jimbo I'm not at all sure what you need. The tubular "top hat" in the upper photo appears to be the bogie pivot If it is threaded internally, I'd suggest it would screw onto the bolt that appears to be in the right place in the lower photo, but I guess it isn't as you are asking... If you took off the nut that is visible in the lower photo, would the tubular "top hat" thing fit on the bolt and be secured by the nut? Is the bogie weight carrying or does it just toddle along for the ride? Can you establish the size of the bolt - it looks 8BA but that's little more than a wild guess? HTH Simon Hi Simon, I need another one because although it fits,like a fool I shortened it too much to adjust the ride height but now it is too short !! thanks. Jim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 Could you not add a washer or a short piece of tube underneath it to restore the length? Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 Ok, now I understand! You'll not buy one (unless you are so lucky as to habitually win the lottery...) , so suggestions as follows: Do you know anyone with a lathe? Local model engineering club or a friend of a friend? It's a five minute job to turn, drill & tap. Worth a couple of pints to any aspiring turner! This is really the only way to go. Of course, your friend will need to know the length it needs to be. If not, you could solder one or several washers onto the thin end, and then carefully file them down to match the diameter of the shank. A slice of plastruct tube would possibly do the same job. Or one or more loose washers that you somehow insert with your third hand as you assemble the bogie. I'd add you location to your profile, and change the title of your post to "Help, I need a top hat bush turned!" or something similar, and you might well find a kind soul on here who is local to you and can make the part. Good luck! HTH Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 hi Jim Not sure were you are but if near North London you're more than welcome to pop over and I'll turn one up for you, better still bring the bogie and loco with you and I can machine it to give you the ride height that you desire, I'm in Harrow. Cheers Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 Ok, now I understand! You'll not buy one (unless you are so lucky as to habitually win the lottery...) , so suggestions as follows: Do you know anyone with a lathe? Local model engineering club or a friend of a friend? It's a five minute job to turn, drill & tap. Worth a couple of pints to any aspiring turner! This is really the only way to go. Of course, your friend will need to know the length it needs to be. If not, you could solder one or several washers onto the thin end, and then carefully file them down to match the diameter of the shank. A slice of plastruct tube would possibly do the same job. Or one or more loose washers that you somehow insert with your third hand as you assemble the bogie. I'd add you location to your profile, and change the title of your post to "Help, I need a top hat bush turned!" or something similar, and you might well find a kind soul on here who is local to you and can make the part. Good luck! Hi Simon, Thanks for info. Jim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 hi Jim Not sure were you are but if near North London you're more than welcome to pop over and I'll turn one up for you, better still bring the bogie and loco with you and I can machine it to give you the ride height that you desire, I'm in Harrow. Cheers Pete Hi Pete, Many thanks for suggestion. I am in Wallington near darkest Croydon. I may take you up on your generous offer. Ciao. Jim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 Jimbo I'm not at all sure what you need. The tubular "top hat" in the upper photo appears to be the bogie pivot If it is threaded internally, I'd suggest it would screw onto the bolt that appears to be in the right place in the lower photo, but I guess it isn't as you are asking... If you took off the nut that is visible in the lower photo, would the tubular "top hat" thing fit on the bolt and be secured by the nut? Is the bogie weight carrying or does it just toddle along for the ride? Can you establish the size of the bolt - it looks 8BA but that's little more than a wild guess? HTH Simon Jimbo I'm not at all sure what you need. The tubular "top hat" in the upper photo appears to be the bogie pivot If it is threaded internally, I'd suggest it would screw onto the bolt that appears to be in the right place in the lower photo, but I guess it isn't as you are asking... If you took off the nut that is visible in the lower photo, would the tubular "top hat" thing fit on the bolt and be secured by the nut? Is the bogie weight carrying or does it just toddle along for the ride? Can you establish the size of the bolt - it looks 8BA but that's little more than a wild guess? HTH Simon Hi Simon, Yes the top hat is internally threaded and screws into the bolt fitted into top of chassis, as a pivot with a spring to hold the bogie in tension. Like a fool I cut the bolt a little too much to alter the ride height. thanks. Jim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 You would be most welcome Jim....PM me if you decide to pop over and i'll give you my details...I'm in most days, well except tomorrow I'm at my club track for a memorial to an ex LNER man...I've been asked to take my part built Gresley pacific along for static display so will do my best to attend... It shouldn't take long to machine your part...FOC of course..... cheers Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 "Help, I need a top hat bush turned!" This item is a 'reach nut', I believe. I have made them before for several 0 gauge modellers who have wandered into similar problems: See: www.davidlosmith.co.uk/Model-Parts.htm#ReachNuts OK. it's not identical but it's the same idea. I would offer to machine one up for you but, apart from already having had a generous offer of help from somebody close to you, my workshop is not yet properly 'up and running' for such jobs after moving house. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo Posted August 23, 2015 Author Share Posted August 23, 2015 "Help, I need a top hat bush turned!" This item is a 'reach nut', I believe. I have made them before for several 0 gauge modellers who have wandered into similar problems: See: www.davidlosmith.co.uk/Model-Parts.htm#ReachNuts OK. it's not identical but it's the same idea. I would offer to machine one up for you but, apart from already having had a generous offer of help from somebody close to you, my workshop is not yet properly 'up and running' for such jobs after moving house. David Hi All, Thanks for all the info chaps,much appreciated. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 Hi Chaps, Could any kind soul help to make o make a top hat fitting (preferably in brass) so I can at last finish the Bulleid Pacific. I will of course pay for the privilege plus post/packing. I have posted the spec here. Thanks. Jim. Sorry for less than ideal photo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Jim, This seems straight forward enough and I could have a go for you - but I am sure that there are many here who could do so! However, we are short of quite a few dimensions, eg: diameter of the crown, diameter and thickness of the brim. You specify a piece of threaded rod (studding) at 2.5mm diameter; to me, this would imply a metric thread M2.5 or 7BA, but would 8BA (2.2mm diam) or 6BA (2.8mm) be acceptable? I assume that the internal thread of the top hat bush is the same as that of the studding? Although it is not necessary to know in order to make the two components, it would be helpful to see them in a general arrangement drawing (GA) so that we know how they will fit together and in context of their neighbouring components. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Not sure what happened to the reply I penned over my cornies this morning, but essentially the same as David's Do check the diameter of the plain portion of the top hat - this is pretty fundamental! Will repost when I get home Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 This is the note I penned on Friday morning - so apologies if it's rather out of time - it appears to be a digital problem, as in my digit did not hit the "post" button. Jim, You'll need to specify the outside diameter of the internally threaded bit, and the diameter and thickness of the flange. it would also help to know the diameter of the hole through which the threaded rod needs to fit. 2.5mm would be an unusual (but by no means impossible) size - it's possibly 7BA whereas 8 would be more common (at about 2.2mm diameter) easiest way to get a good idea of diameter if you don't have a caliper or other means of measurement is to see what's the biggest drill that will go in the hole (and by default what's the smallest that won't). Ditto of course for the bogie slot. And does it really need to be a top-hat and a threaded rod, or can it be a top-had with thread sticking out of the crown, with one nut to secure, or are you coverering the bases to allow reduction of length if required? And returning to the sizes bit, K&S brass tube may be a good way of checking the diameter to go through the bogie (take the bogie to the shop?) best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 This is the note I penned on Friday morning - so apologies if it's rather out of time - it appears to be a digital problem, as in my digit did not hit the "post" button. Jim, You'll need to specify the outside diameter of the internally threaded bit, and the diameter and thickness of the flange. it would also help to know the diameter of the hole through which the threaded rod needs to fit. 2.5mm would be an unusual (but by no means impossible) size - it's possibly 7BA whereas 8 would be more common (at about 2.2mm diameter) easiest way to get a good idea of diameter if you don't have a caliper or other means of measurement is to see what's the biggest drill that will go in the hole (and by default what's the smallest that won't). Ditto of course for the bogie slot. And does it really need to be a top-hat and a threaded rod, or can it be a top-had with thread sticking out of the crown, with one nut to secure, or are you coverering the bases to allow reduction of length if required? And returning to the sizes bit, K&S brass tube may be a good way of checking the diameter to go through the bogie (take the bogie to the shop?) best Simon Thanks chaps for all the offers and info. I will go back and check dimensions. ciao. Jim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 Thanks chaps for all the offers and info. I will go back and check dimensions. ciao. Jim. Hi Chaps, Sorry for not getting back sooner but work/life keep getting in the way. I have re-measured dimensions for the Bulleid front bogie. I have measued in millimetres but any equivalent will suffice basically it just needs a brass top tap internally threaded with accompanying stud and two nuts and the stud to go through 2.5 mm opening. I can always open out the opening if it is a little tight. thanks to all. Jim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo Posted November 23, 2015 Author Share Posted November 23, 2015 Hi All, Is any kind gent willing to make the fittings for me ? I will pay well for your trouble ! Thanks anyway. Jim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Jim I thought you were boxed off with a local modeller. I'll do it for you, but probably not before Christmas If someone else can do it sooner, please go with their offer. If not, shout up, and I'll have a go. Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Thank you for posting you additional sketch, Jim. That made it a bit clearer for me but, I am sorry, I am still not certain that I understand it sufficiently confidently to make your top hat nut. I had not responded before now, hoping that somebody else would step in and save me from exposing my ignorance! Anyway, below are my freehand sketches, 3rd angle and isometric [ikea drawing, if you like!], of what I understand that you are after: Is this it? David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 That's about right David although iirc 2.5 mm would be 7BA...Jim I might be able to fit these in over the next week if no one else has picked up the gauntlet before... cheers Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 "2.5 mm would be 7BA"Indeed it would but 7BA is an odd size; as Simon said "2.5mm would be an unusual ... size" and " 8 would be more common", and that's what most people would use. I do have 7BA screwing tackle, and odd sizes were advocated by 'LBSC' (of Model Engineer fame, and classic model steam locomotive engineering books) because they could be used directly on imperial stock sizes, but I've very rarely used them.David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 I have used 7BA a fair amount on my present build..a lot easier than tapping hundreds of the smaller sizes available... I've had to drill/tap a lot more 8BA and 10BA in recent weeks, there are literally hundreds of 10BA along my A1 running boards most of which are csk, not much fun into steel some of which is 1/8th thick..... Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 Hi Jim could you give an idea on tolerances please...i know it may seem a little OTT but it's important to understand what's required and how it fits into existing parts...for example 4.5mm dia...that's fine but what clearance does it have in where it fits..reason i ask is the cold weather is upon us and a part that I machine in a cold workshop will be larger once in a warmer room, not by much but enough to bind if too close a fit..This is one of the reasons that it's better to machine a part to fit that you can check in the same environment. kind regards Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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