Real Coal "Coaling" Gone Wrong ?

[70021 Morning Star]

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If that real coaling dried out looking like plastic, here's how to fix it
 
The great thing about replacing the plastic coal in a ready-to-run (RTR) steam locomotive with real coal is that it instantly makes your locomotive look 50% more realistic. It's probably the most important detailing and weathering task, and it's very easy to do.
 
The "How to" of replacing that horrible plastic coal with the real stuff is described in many places on RMWEB. Just use the search box, top right of your screen, to find detailed instructions.
 
The only potential problem is using the correct amount of diluted PVA adhesive. Get the dilution wrong - not enough water - or add one too many PVA washes, to ensure the coal doesn't drop out, and the coal loses its natural look. Instead of having a sharp mineral look, it will dry to a plastic look. Not surprising, as PVA is a plastic, and it's like you've applied a plastic varnish over the top of the real coal you wanted to see.
 
I've had this problem many times. Should I get a better look by using fewer PVA washes and run the risk of bits of the coal coming lose? Or, should I thoroughly glue the coal with a generous amount of PVA? Well, the answer is to use as many applications of diluted PVA as are needed to ensure the coal is thoroughly bonded inside the tender. ...That isn't to say you should plaster the coal in PVA - it's important you let the dilute PVA flow upwards, so it goes on the underside of the coal by introducing it from the edges, but that you shouldn't be concerned if some parts of the coal get waterlogged in dilute PVA, resulting in clumps of unsightly plasticy coal.
 
Correctly applied, the diluted PVA will settle into the gaps between the pieces of coal. But, in places, you will always get PVA causing the coal to clump and not look good. That's inevitable, as it's a liquid whose flow is difficult to control. Don't worry, here's how to fix it.
 

[ Any side cutter will do, but I prefer the type with thin cutting blades, as they give finer control  ]

 

What you need is a pair of modellers' side cutters. After the coaling is thoroughly dried  - at least a couple of days - use the side cutters to snip around the edges of the coal pieces that don't look right. You can use the side cutters to separate the pieces of coal, or to cut up larger lumps, or (in extremis) totally remove areas that have gone wrong. After each snip, take a look at the result, and try wriggling the coal (it should move without coming adrift) to see how it looks. The interesting thing is what happens when you separate the lumps or cut into larger pieces of coal. Remember, the reason why real coal is so good is that it still looks good in whatever size pieces you break it into. The same applies when you cut into your coaling with side cutters. You're breaking the coal to expose additional clean, sharp edges. The coal will move about a bit, but the flexible PVA will still hold it. Where you make your snips, it reveals the mineral look that you'd lost.
 
Don't worry that cutting the PVA will make the coal drop out. In my experience, the thorough gluing will ensure there's enough PVA to hold the snipped coal in place. It's  a flexible glue. And where you cut the coal, it really does get back to that real coal look you were after.
 
In those surprisingly rare cases where side cutters don't rescue the coaling by themselves, you can just snip away the offending lumps of coal and replace with new coal.
 
 
Enjoy your modelling,
Rick