MikeH_83 Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 I am soon going to be starting on my new large ish layout and I am planning to make it using Handbuilt track. With it being a large ish layout I am wondering if it would be better (for keeping track clean) to use DCC Concepts Stainless steel track rather than the HiNi stuff you can get from c&l? Has anyone used it? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LooseHead Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 How much experience have you had soldering SS? While it is far from impossible, it's a lot more demanding than n/s, both in cleaning/preparing before applying the solder and in the need for (immediate) after-solder flux clear-up - and FWIW the first few joints I 'made' had near to zero structural strength (but maybe I'm just ham-fisted?). SS is also harder to cut and file, but providing you have good equipment that should not matter too much. Personally I just prefer working with n/s, but it will be interesting to see what others think. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brigo Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 I have not used the DCC Concepts stainless rail but many years ago when I modeled in N gauge I used Minitrix track in my fiddle yards. At that time it was made with stainless steel rail and I found no real problem soldering to it. Clean the rail immediately before soldering preferably with a fine file or wire wool to lightly abrade the surface. Use a phosphoric acid flux (Carrs brown I think, although I got some from the chem lab where I worked). I used normal tin/lead rosin cored solder and cleaned the joint well afterwards. There is some information here about soldering stainless steel http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=150 Brian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanley Melrose Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 You could always ask DCC Concepts or even read <http://www.dccconcepts.com/track-trackmaking-parts/dccconcepts-track-and-trackmaking-parts/rail-bullhead-4mm-scale-stainless-steel-l-960mm-10-pack> There's also <http://www.dccconcepts.com/vamr/brm-magazine-dccconcepts-legacy-point-kit> I've never used any of this but it's probably a good idea to see what the supplier has to say about his propduct . . . HTH, Stan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeH_83 Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 How much experience have you had soldering SS? While it is far from impossible, it's a lot more demanding than n/s, both in cleaning/preparing before applying the solder and in the need for (immediate) after-solder flux clear-up - and FWIW the first few joints I 'made' had near to zero structural strength (but maybe I'm just ham-fisted?). SS is also harder to cut and file, but providing you have good equipment that should not matter too much. Personally I just prefer working with n/s, but it will be interesting to see what others think. Iv'e had no experience in soldering SS, n/s would be easier due to being able to get common crossings and blades ready made if need be, with ss I would have to file for the vee and the blades, Maybe I might pick up a few bits and test it out. I have not used the DCC Concepts stainless rail but many years ago when I modeled in N gauge I used Minitrix track in my fiddle yards. At that time it was made with stainless steel rail and I found no real problem soldering to it. Clean the rail immediately before soldering preferably with a fine file or wire wool to lightly abrade the surface. Use a phosphoric acid flux (Carrs brown I think, although I got some from the chem lab where I worked). I used normal tin/lead rosin cored solder and cleaned the joint well afterwards. There is some information here about soldering stainless steel http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=150 Brian Thanks for that info! I am mainly thinking about it due to the "extra grip" that the manufacturer claims over n/s and also the fact that it doesn't get as dirty as quick which should promote better running.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grovenor Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 I am mainly thinking about it due to the "extra grip" that the manufacturer claims over n/s and also the fact that it doesn't get as dirty as quick Claims which apply equally to the normal steel rail readily available from C&L. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Graff Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Nickel silver oxidation conducts electricity, stainless steel oxidation doesn't. The pure difficulty of soldering SS would be discouraging enough by itself. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Lamb Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Dearer than normal steel or nickel silver and harder to work. Why make life more difficult? Bernard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grovenor Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Nickel silver oxidation conducts electricity, Not mine! Hence the need for so much cleaning. and why most of my track is now steel. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeH_83 Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 Not mine! Hence the need for so much cleaning. and why most of my track is now steel. Regards Steel would be nice but I will be a little concerned about rusting over the years.. or me missing abit when cleaning after soldering.. Much to think about! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeH_83 Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 Here is some steel rail that I have found that has been left where the new layout has been for about 20 years! My only issue with steel track would be risk of rust especially where I solder joiners to it (although I would get a neutralizing agent for the flux) and just general effects over being in the loft. However if it won't be much of an issue then maybe steel is the better choice? But there must be a reason most use n/s I guess Cheers Edit: I actually found one bit of steel track fully rusted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.