Branwell Posted January 31, 2016 Author Share Posted January 31, 2016 As a newby to 2mm kit building it's great to see these walk throughs,they're invaluable for someone hoping to do an etch loco kit in the future Great work Brian Thanks Brian, This is only the third 2mm loco kit that I've started - one I made a real mess of the chassis and put away again, one's part built and waiting on some bits and then there's this one. It took me a long while to pluck up the courage to have a go, but I'm enjoying putting this one together and if my experiences help somebody else then so much the better. Regards, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 Hi David, the tool boxes look a bit on the large side and the coal door surround should match the profile of the door on the inside of the rear spectacle plate. The attached photo of the 4mm version shows this. Jol 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branwell Posted January 31, 2016 Author Share Posted January 31, 2016 Thanks Jol, I appreciate your input, and you're right on both counts, but I would stress that this is very much a test build, both for me and for others who've ordered the etches to learn from. I'll be making refinements when I do further builds - the N Brass toolboxes will either have to be further reduced in size or replacements built from scratch and the coal door surround shaped using the inner door as a profile. Regards, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 I've always preferred building the body before the chassis - as you say it becomes easier to fettle plus if you start making modifications to the chassis before trial fitting the body, how do you know you're not making a monumental cock up? I always prefer to build the chassis first and then build the body round it. Clearances are so tight in 2mm scale. On the occasions where I've built a new chassis for an existing body I've always had a h**l of a problem figuring out either why the body won't sit down properly on the chassis, or what is causing a short. i always check for shorts at each stage of building the body so that I can identify what is causing it and make the necessary adjustment(s). Each to his own!! Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branwell Posted January 31, 2016 Author Share Posted January 31, 2016 I always prefer to build the chassis first and then build the body round it. Clearances are so tight in 2mm scale. On the occasions where I've built a new chassis for an existing body I've always had a h**l of a problem figuring out either why the body won't sit down properly on the chassis, or what is causing a short. i always check for shorts at each stage of building the body so that I can identify what is causing it and make the necessary adjustment(s). Each to his own!! Jim I think I just find it easier to modify the body rather than the chassis - the one 2mm kit I got near to finishing I tried to modify the chassis and made a real mess of it so reverted to how I used to build 4mm kits - body first and then chassis. Also find it spurs me on to get the chassis built. Anyway, I've made some more progress today and have now got the cab sides and front spectacle plate assembled and added to the rest of the body. Need to put some strengthening in the cab corners and along the top of the sides and then it's time for a clean up. Wondering about doing a backhead and some cab detail as well - should drop in and sit on the cab floor easily enough and have just been looking at the one Tim Watson's doing and it's inspirational stuff! There's a casting in the 4mm kit to use as a guide and there are some drawings and photos in Bashers. Gadgers and Mourners as well. Cab sides were a bit of a pain to solder to the front spectacle plate - ended up hot taping them together and then wedging them up against a block of wood whilst I applied the iron. Putting the tops on the side tanks was also a little bit fiddly - ended up soldering the front and rear handrails in place first, leaving them long and then dropping the tops onto them, tinning the top of the tanks and then seaming and sweating the tops on and cutting the handrails down to size. Final bit on the bunker as well in that the tank filler has now been added. Regards, David 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 I think I just find it easier to modify the body rather than the chassis - the one 2mm kit I got near to finishing I tried to modify the chassis and made a real mess of it so reverted to how I used to build 4mm kits - body first and then chassis. Also find it spurs me on to get the chassis built. I try not to modify the chassis, but to adjust the body part I've just added to clear the interference/shorting. Usually it's just a matter of moving it a wee bit to provide more clearance. Cab sides were a bit of a pain to solder to the front spectacle plate - ended up hot taping them together and then wedging them up against a block of wood whilst I applied the iron. When attaching these sort of items (including joining coach/van ends to sides) I simply tack one top corner with a quick touch of the iron, then the other one and then adjust theses joints until I'm happy with the positioning before sealing the whole joint. That way, if you not happy with the positioning you only have the tack joints to un-solder rather than the whole seam. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelb Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 I am also following this build with great interest having got an order in for 2 sets of etches Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branwell Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 Getting to the stage now where I'm going to need to switch attention to the boiler - splashers for the front wheels and sandboxes added today. Still in two minds about the boiler but beginning to lean to do it using 9mm tube and the N Brass castings - tried both one of the Mike Bryant castings and a piece of tube cut to length. Regards, David 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branwell Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 Caught up with 1054 at the KWVR Winter Gala today and got some useful elevated shots. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Caught up with 1054 at the KWVR Winter Gala today and got some useful elevated shots. I think I see now why the smokebox saddle is not that important to model - it is pretty much concealed by those sandboxes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branwell Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 I think I see now why the smokebox saddle is not that important to model - it is pretty much concealed by those sandboxes. I think you could get away without it, Chris. How goes the chassis? Regards, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 I think you could get away without it, Chris. How goes the chassis? Regards, David The shape of the lower part of the smokebox "wrapper" is quite a sharp concave curve as it turns back and out above the cylinders. It is visible from the front so worth modelling to get the "face" of the engine looking right. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 The shape of the lower part of the smokebox "wrapper" is quite a sharp concave curve as it turns back and out above the cylinders. It is visible from the front so worth modelling to get the "face" of the engine looking right. I am not suggesting omitting the shape of the smokebox front for which there is an etched part. Only that what goes back from there will be near-invisible. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Are the etches for this still available? I wasn't paying attention when the email went around... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branwell Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 Are the etches for this still available? I wasn't paying attention when the email went around... Have sent you a PM. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelb Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 (edited) I think I see now why the smokebox saddle is not that important to model - it is pretty much concealed by those sandboxes. i thought the Bunker toolboxes were modified at some point to open inwards so as not to exceed the loading gauge ?? derrrr they were modified TOO open outwaard Edited February 28, 2016 by nigelb Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted February 29, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 29, 2016 The shape of the lower part of the smokebox "wrapper" is quite a sharp concave curve as it turns back and out above the cylinders. It is visible from the front so worth modelling to get the "face" of the engine looking right. Does this pic help? Nig H 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branwell Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 i thought the Bunker toolboxes were modified at some point to open inwards so as not to exceed the loading gauge ?? derrrr they were modified TOO open outwaard And then further modified to open at one end through a door in the cab. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelb Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 How are things progressing chap all gone quiet on the coal tank front Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branwell Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 How are things progressing chap all gone quiet on the coal tank front Not had much time for modelling the last few weeks for one reason and another. Will hopefully be able to pick it up again soon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelb Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Managed to get hold of a copy of 'Bashers, Gadgets and Mourners' got my brass tube all ready with a selection on other brass wire, sheet , bar new bit for my soldering iron will be ordering the wheels from 2mm anoraks club and other bits from others TBC all I need now are the etches and a chassis lol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branwell Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 Managed to get hold of a copy of 'Bashers, Gadgets and Mourners' got my brass tube all ready with a selection on other brass wire, sheet , bar new bit for my soldering iron will be ordering the wheels from 2mm anoraks club and other bits from others TBC all I need now are the etches and a chassis lol I'm hoping to pick up the remaining etches from LRM at York this weekend, subject to the etchers having got the etches to them in time. Failing that they'll hopefully be ready shortly after Easter. Chris Higgs is till working on his chassis etch I think, but I'm now having a go at building the LRM chassis. Am doing some serious head scratching at the moment though as to how to isolate the rear pony truck. I think I should be able to isolate it from the frames ok by using cigarette paper but I'm struggling when it comes to isolating it from the wheels - the truck's one piece and sits inside the frames but the wheels are going to come into contact with it and it seems to me that's going to bridge any gap between the frames. Would be grateful for any suggestions as to how to go about resolving this - thought about using cigarette paper on the stub axles but can't see that working in terms of free running plus the clearances are very tight and I can't really open up the axle holes in the pony truck any further. is it a case of cutting the pony truck in half and narrowing it slightly and then attaching it to some thin PCB? All suggestions welcome ... Regards, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Would be grateful for any suggestions as to how to go about resolving this - thought about using cigarette paper on the stub axles but can't see that working in terms of free running plus the clearances are very tight and I can't really open up the axle holes in the pony truck any further. is it a case of cutting the pony truck in half and narrowing it slightly and then attaching it to some thin PCB? All suggestions welcome ... I have no knowledge of the design of the chassis, but, assuming you are using split frame pick-up and the frames are isolated from each other, I would suggest that you solder a piece of PCB across the top part of the pony truck (underneath it if there is room) and then cut through the pony truck top and the copper cladding on the pcb. That way the two sides of the pony truck will be isolated from one another and there will be no issues if it touches the frames, providing there is enough room for it to swing on your minimum radius. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branwell Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 (edited) I have no knowledge of the design of the chassis, but, assuming you are using split frame pick-up and the frames are isolated from each other, I would suggest that you solder a piece of PCB across the top part of the pony truck (underneath it if there is room) and then cut through the pony truck top and the copper cladding on the pcb. That way the two sides of the pony truck will be isolated from one another and there will be no issues if it touches the frames, providing there is enough room for it to swing on your minimum radius. Jim Thanks Jim - Your assumptions re split frames are correct, but I think the PCB will need to be on top as it would probably foul the axles if it went underneath. Will have a go and see how it works out. Regards, David Edited March 21, 2016 by Branwell Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted March 21, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 21, 2016 I'm hoping to pick up the remaining etches from LRM at York this weekend, subject to the etchers having got the etches to them in time. Failing that they'll hopefully be ready shortly after Easter. Chris Higgs is till working on his chassis etch I think, but I'm now having a go at building the LRM chassis. Am doing some serious head scratching at the moment though as to how to isolate the rear pony truck. I think I should be able to isolate it from the frames ok by using cigarette paper but I'm struggling when it comes to isolating it from the wheels - the truck's one piece and sits inside the frames but the wheels are going to come into contact with it and it seems to me that's going to bridge any gap between the frames. Would be grateful for any suggestions as to how to go about resolving this - thought about using cigarette paper on the stub axles but can't see that working in terms of free running plus the clearances are very tight and I can't really open up the axle holes in the pony truck any further. is it a case of cutting the pony truck in half and narrowing it slightly and then attaching it to some thin PCB? All suggestions welcome ... Regards, David Hello David, Here are two pics of a pony truck for a WD 2-8-0. I use something very similar for the pony trucks for the Dapol Ivatt. Something like this would isolate the wheels but I'm not sure about clearance of wheels and the frames in the LRM kit. It will depend on what width spacers you use. What is the distance between the wheel and pivot centrelines of the LRM pony truck? The width over the WD pony truck is 7.5mm, so that may not fit inside the LRM frames. (The bits at the top of the first pic are double sided 0.25mm pcb.) Nig H 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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