Frappington Jct Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 As I'm moving out soon for uni and life in general, I'm concocting a plan for a small boxfile 'inglenook' style layout. I've got the wiring fairly well planned out, the only problem is how to connect one of my Hornby controllers (one is one of the current silver ones used in trainsets, whilst the other is one of the slightly older black ones which also came from a trainsets, just before the silver controllers were introduced)to it. Until now my layouts have utilised power tracks etc, but I want to build this layout properly, and in the long run buy a decent, probably Gaugemaster, controller (though I don't have the budget for this currently) thus the need for proper wiring. In addition, whichever controller I use has to be able to be reconnected to the my main layout whilst I'm still at home. As such, the connection needs to be temporary, whilst also being compatible with other controllers. Any advice as to how to proceed would be much appreciated. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 Ok. So proper wiring usually includes bus wired along the underside. All you need is a terminal block such as this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZ6Y3?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 And connect that to the buses. Then just screw the leads of the transformer to it. Should work fine. Or, go a step further and install something like a microphone jack to transfer power. Also, have you considered how you will do the baseboards and trackplan? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frappington Jct Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share Posted March 5, 2016 Ok. So proper wiring usually includes bus wired along the underside. All you need is a terminal block such as this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZ6Y3?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 And connect that to the buses. Then just screw the leads of the transformer to it. Should work fine. Or, go a step further and install something like a microphone jack to transfer power. Also, have you considered how you will do the baseboards and trackplan? Thanks, that looks perfect! I've sorted a track plan - a simple 3 sidings and head shunt affair. As far as baseboards are concerned, it's going to be set within a trio of boxfile - reinforced if necessary. As such, the bus will most likely run along the back of the files rather than the bottom, wired into the metal bolts (or whatever I end up using) to carry the current between the files Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpman46 Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 Alternatively you could use one of these suitably cut down to the number of ways required. http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-power/3atrans/terminal-block-transparent-3a/dp/CB1764287?ost=CB1764287&selectedCategoryId=&categoryName=All+Categories&categoryNameResp=All%2BCategories Wires screw in to the block as per the Amazon offering. Might be somewhat cheaper as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 If the controller has those brass pegs which slip into the back of the power rail the easy option is small diameter brass tube a nice tight fit on the pegs pushed through the connector blocks as described and wires soldered to the tubes and the tracks. Unless you have a "Kick back" siding in your inglenook just two wires to the toe of the first point should suffice on DC. If you clamp the wire ends in a connector block you will squash them and they wont fit the power rail any more. I would not use a Hornby train set controller on a shunting layout, the control just is not fine enough, however I would quite happily use a Minic Motorway hand throttle, like Scalextric but with reverse. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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