MGR Hooper! Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 Aye, was just wondering if anyone else has received prints and could comment. I'm hoping they refine the process as I would still like to be able to release loco bodies in it providing they can get it right. Seems the best of both FUD and WSF when done right. Indeed, I am actually waiting to see myself. Ideally I would've given it a shot, but I'm working on my first batch of models so I don't want a mess of it. I'd rather have a proper batch of prints so that my customers nor I end up paying so much. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vonzack Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 I've had some of my Biomass Hopper Doors on order for about 6 weeks now in HDA, they keep flipping from Pre-Production to Production then back again. They were unable to print some bogie frames because I'd used a sprue to keep them together. Not impressed so far with HDA, seems to have too many constraints compared to the other materials they print in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 Indeed. Not being able to sprue much and then charging us for separate unsprued items is to my mind a bit of a joke to be honest. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelly Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 It seems rather disapointing after the promises made at launch about it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talltim Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Got my first HDA print, wish I'd seen this thread! Detail and finish is great, warping is not I'm assuming that it's something to do with the way twin walls cool, it seems to have happened at the most unsupported corners and pretty much equally. Both walls are 1mm thick, but the outer ones have the mortar courses Is it worth heating it to try and bend it in? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 I haven't tried heating for a re-bend on my examples but it is worth a shot. Complain to them and you may get a retry or refund, especially with the pic proof. Failing that you will have nothing to lose trying to heat bend. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 Luckily that's just a building and not a loco body. Personally I could live with a slightly warped building, but not a loco body. As suggested already, contact them, they may refund or re-print. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talltim Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 (edited) Yeah, as it's a building extreme straightness isn't a requirement, although the little tabs are supposed to fit in slots in a larger wall, not printed yet. If they don't fit I can always cut them off and align by eye. Gonna try a little heat and I'll report back If I was to print again, I'd put a bar between the two corners that have warped to prevent them spreading. Edited May 3, 2017 by Talltim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rue_d_etropal Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 (edited) For fine detail, using these plastics is OK, but is it worth it for most building items, which are not exactly smooth, and WSF is actually FAR FAR BETTER. Window bars can be thinned down easily if necessary.I have done a lot of buildings now and plan to do more. Personally I would suggest trying to do all buildings in WSF. I have even done them in N gauge, where you do have to adapt designs, size of brick etc. You might want to do windows, possibly doors as separate items. Also my HO scale buildings even have the drainpipes as part of the same print design. One of my designs Usng the right material for the right job is important. Edited May 3, 2017 by rue_d_etropal Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talltim Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 I don't know where you based those houses on but that roof style is very reminiscent of Barnsley. I've printed some bridge and track components in WSF (well actually BSF), but I wouldn't be happy with the finish for more finely detailed things, they look rough compared the plasticard scratchbuilt buildings on the rest of the layout. Plus I wanted to try HDA, I'm not keen on the post-processing required for FUD/FED Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talltim Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 Got the wife's hairdryer on it (got no hair myself!) and it softened up nicely so I've got it straight enough for my purposes. Wouldn't work for a loco body tho Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rue_d_etropal Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 (edited) they are typical East Lancs(the sloping roof following hill is only found round here and South Wales), although they might have similar on other side of Pennines. Looking at many real buildings, I wonder if the problem is with other plastic buildings not looking like the WSF ones. I see a lot of errors in plastic buildings, and brick and stone are rarely smooth or shiny. I have not come across BSF, but I do know WSF has got better over the years, and if I can get separate drainpipes, only connected to wall at supports then it must be OK. Edited May 3, 2017 by rue_d_etropal Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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