Advice needed on next loco kit

[Tony1984]

Hi all, I hope this is the right place to post this!

 

I have made ground in O gauge so far by building a Connoisseur starter kit and a G6 0-6-0.  I have also built a brass goods van and brake van.  There's no going back to a smaller scale for me now!

 

I've made some silly mistakes on all of the models, but only one real 'big' mistake on the goods wagon, as I rushed it and it's not 100% square..

 

Anyway, I really want a G.W.R. Collett Goods loco and I've seen Tower Models sell a Javelin kit.  I wanted to ask an experienced audience if this may be a bit of a big task based on what I've built so far?   or manageable with time and common sense?  Looking at it I think I can see how the parts would be formed and constructed, but I don't want buy a box of frustration and bad language!

 

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated!

 

T

 

[Jintyman]

Hi there,

 

Welcome to O gauge.

 

You have built a couple of brass kits and as you say, rushed one and made a couple of mistakes. I would concentrate on a couple more etched wagon kits before going down the road of a more complicated tender loco. How has your Starter kit and the G6 turned out? Jim McGowan's kits are excellent starter kits as they are effortless to go together.

 

As for the Javellin kit of the 2251 Class, I don't know the kit, but I have the JLTRT version of the kit and that comes with the firebox, boiler and smokebox as a one piece resin casting. This may simplify and assist in construction for you. I built the JLTRT 4F last year which was my first etched kit, and I found it quite straight forward.

 

Good luck in whatever you try, I'm sure with practice and perseverance, you'll enjoy each kit more as you go. 

 

Jinty  

[The Nth Degree]

If you don't mind me stepping outside of the immediate question for a bit, you have an LNER-ish loco, a Southern loco and you're about to get a GWR loco. If you have a layout and era in mind it may be worth rationalising a bit to see what you need, and then who makes it?

 

Aside from that, I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun in 0!

[Tony1984]

Thanks for the replies, I appreciate the advice.

 

@jinty man

 

the locos run really well, it took me a while to get the starter kit running right, but it was just a learning curve, I feel my paint work is a little flat on both models, but in the end the models make me smile and run sweetly so im happy.

 

its funny you mentioned the 4F as ive looked at that too - i seem to have a fetish for 0-6-0 tender locos and Connoissuer 4f is also a temptation, yeah Jims kits are really well designed!

 

I actually thought I should build a few more wagons before a bigger loco and this leads me to The Nth Degree's point..

 

@Nth Degree

 

I dont have any real preference for region except I know I like steam locomotives in O gauge, however I did see myself modelling LMS/BR as it operated trains through my home town etc.. In a strange way I just like building the models, its really satisfying seeing the progress, however i take your point, better to have some sort of rational end scenario and i would like to have a small layout one day.

 

ive been eyeing some gwr wagons from connoissuer for a while so i may build some for a branch before getting the loco to haul them.

 

Thanks again

[Tony1984]

I should just add ive only ran my locos on a few yards of straight track in my spare room, so i can only say they run well forwards and backwards! im thinking i should join a club so i can have the benefit of testing through points and curves etc..

 

T

[Simond]

Tony

 

It seems to me that you're pretty much through the "apprenticeship" stage and you can have a go at anything. Some things, of course, will be easier than others. Unsurprisingly, perhaps, the top-end kits are better than others in this respect, so don't avoid them "because you're not ready" - if you can make a decent job of a couple of locos, you can certainly build any of the good kits on the market. Take your time, ask lots of questions, you'll be able to do a fine job.

 

Your "not square" wagon will remain an irritation. You might not want to, but dunking it in boiling water will unsolder any whitemetal (and probably unstick any Araldite/superglue. You can then take the hot air gun to the brass bits, and with a bit of luck, you'll have a kit again... This is one of the beauties of brass & whitemetal. It might be good practice, to get this one rebuilt & square, and it'll look and run better! Of course, if it's painted & transferred, it will need to be done again.

 

HTH

Simon

[Tony1984]

Hi Simon, thanks for the comments.

 

You hit the nail on the head, the wobbly wagon is certainly annoying me now. At first i thought id keep it as a reminder of not what to do, and let it be a rusty old wagon in a siding one day.

 

But ive had the same thoughts about starting it again, and I think I will re do it. it will be worth it in the end, and I seem to be developing lots of patience while working in O gauge!

 

now where's my blow torch...

 

T

[Simond]

Tony

 

Good call, IMO.

 

Post photos. We'll like them, and you'll have a record of what you achieved!

 

But before you do, just check what needs to be fixed. Is the body ok, but it rocks? Then either fix the W irons, or fit compensation. Don't dismantle the whole thing if the problem is fairly minor. Try to sort out what needs to be fixed, and take it a step at a time.

 

Did I mention that we like photos?

 

Best

Simon

[The Nth Degree]

I too am looking forward to seeing pictures - don't be shy!

 

You're going way faster than I am. I have a workbench on here that I update periodically, where I started three similar locos last year, but my wagons (still unfinished) hold the record of about 4 years and counting!

[Tony1984]

Hi again,

 

I persevered with the wobbly wagon and improved it, although it's not as sweet as my break van.

 

Anyway having considered the comments written here I found a bit of direction.  I have been building a Standard Class 2.  Some things have gone together great, some things have tested my level of skill, particularly pipework!

 

I am trying to take great care now in building this chassis to the point I think I'm becoming a bit paranoid!

 

What I have noticed is the middle driving wheels, which the motor will be joined to, seem to be fractionally higher than the two other axles...  so sometimes when I push the chassis or roll it, they don't turn with the other wheels, they kind of free float?

 

I have not seen this in the 0-4-0 and 0-6-0 I built.  As the instructions indicated the bearings for the axles where slightly different for the middle driving wheels.

 

Is this by design (something I don't know about) or have I messed up somewhere?

 

I'd rather rectify this at this stage!

 

That wobbly wagon is in the background and that's as close as I'd want anyone to see them!

 

Thank you for any advice.

 

 

[Simond]

Looking good.

 

Don't worry if the wheels on the middle axle don't touch the ground. It is likely this way by design, and the rods will be similarly slightly distorted to suit - the intent is to prevent it derailing by rocking, see-saw-style on the middle wheels. Of course, until you fit the rods, it won't go!

 

Best

Simon

[Tony1984]

Hi Simond, thanks for that! Yes I see what you mean now.. Well that's reassuring. I was going to paint the chassis before getting the rods on but I think I'll wait until I've tested with everything on etc..

 

I'll post up some updates for what it's worth. I was hoping to get it running by October to test at the Keighley O Gauge show.

 

Thanks!

[Tony1984]

Hi folks,

 

Lack of experience is slowing me down now.  I'm trying to think a few steps ahead to avoid issues.  However the fit of the motor isn't great so that's on hold until I can get some one to look at it.

 

My newest headache is all about the brake gear.  Now I think if I attach the brakes as instructed they will trap the wheels in place.  Is this a good idea?  I wanted to paint the chassis without the wheels then add wheels, motor and pickups etc  It seems odd to trap the wheels on...

 

Anyone worked around this before?

 

Thanks

 

[Simond]

It's not that uncommon. You might be able to use 12 or 14 BA screws to fit the brake gear, or make it so that it "springs" into place.

 

I presume you'll have valve gear too. Not my forte, being a GW modeller, but most solutions seem to require an unscrew able return crank, so you can get it off, and put it back on again. Not that you'll have to do that often, hopefully!

 

Ian Rice did a very good book on loco chassis building in the Wild Swan range - it's written for 4mm, but applicable to 7. Recommended, usual disclaimers.

 

Hth

Simon

[Tony1984]

Morning,

 

I'll definitely have look for that book, thanks.  I have a dvd also which is great, but doesn't feature my issues!

 

I have found two contrasting pictures of the completed model online.  In one the finished loco has all the coupling rods and wheels sprayed black, so I'm assuming the builder sprayed the whole chassis once assembled..  The other picture of a finished model has wheels which are unpainted and silver coupling rods more like the manufacturers picture of the model online, suggesting the model was sprayed in parts etc..

 

The motion bracket and cylinders are screwed on, so I don't see any harm in painting them before assembly..  

 

The only way I could get around the brakes and pull rods is to paint them separately and then glue them in place, can anyone foresee any issues with that?  I'm not a fan of gluing but I am also not a fan of taking everything apart to paint once it's actually running nicely!

 

Thanks

[Grasshopper John]

Tony,

 

The brakes should not be resting on the wheels that would cause a short. Insert the rod through the frames ( allow at least 5mm extra length both sides ) then add a brake hanger, one at a time, I use the little bit of green paper out of a packet of Rizla papers to ensure there is a gap between brake hanger and wheel, when in place just drop a bit of solder on the rod/hanger and its in place.

 

HTH.

Grasshopper J.

[Tony1984]

Hi again,

 

Thanks for the heads up Grasshopper John, I hadn't thought of that, wiring seems a long way off!

 

Well I think I am slowly starting to tackle the chassis.  It seems like I've just stared at the instructions for most of today, but I managed to get the first set of coupling rods on for testing and assemble the slidebars ready to be attached to the cylinders.

 

As for the cylinders, I'm not sure whether to glue them together with araldite or wm solder yet...

 

The chassis seems to run good with the rods on, just a slight occasional tough spot when rolling/pushing backwards, may need some tinkering with but all in all I'm happy so far..