Andrew09 Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 Instructions for fitting a decoder [and which one?] to the following loco: Horby R156 - 13012 Class 08 0-6-0 Diesel Shunter - 1977-79 Regards Andrew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoingUnderground Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 Andrew, Welcome to RMweb. I take it that you want fitting instructions. They are on the old RMWeb, we've just moved servers, but here's a link. http://www.rmweb.co....hp?f=49&t=16178 I believe these refer to your model, and it includes recommendations on the decoder as well. I was looking at you posts on New Railway Modellers Forum yesterday and saw that you were having one or two problems. We have a huge wealth of knowledge, including DCC, from a bunch of very experienced railway modellers, so I hope that we can help you sort them out, and that you become a regular visitor to RMWeb. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted October 22, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 22, 2009 Andrew, Welcome to RMweb. I take it that you want fitting instructions.? ? They are on the old RMWeb, we've just moved servers,? ? but here's a link. http://www.rmweb.co....hp?f=49&t=16178 I believe these refer to your model, and it includes recommendations on the decoder as well. I was looking at you posts on New Railway Modellers Forum yesterday and saw that you were having one or two problems.? ? We have a huge wealth of knowledge, including DCC, from a bunch of very experienced railway modellers, so I hope that we can help you sort them out, and that you become a regular visitor to RMWeb. It's not quite that easy, the loco he has has an X03 motor I think rather than the later type 7. Principle should be the same though, only change is to take the insulating sleeve off the brush spring, cut it in half and put one bit on each arm of the spring, insulating BOTH brushes from the chassis. You can then solder the grey wire to the newly insulated brush, orange to the brush that originally had the wire from the pickup. Pickup wire to the red decoder wire and the black decoder wire to the chassis ..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoingUnderground Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 It's not quite that easy, the loco he has has an X03 motor I think rather than the later type 7. Principle should be the same though, only change is to take the insulating sleeve off the brush spring, cut it in half and put one bit on each arm of the spring, insulating BOTH brushes from the chassis. You can then solder the grey wire to the newly insulated brush, orange to the brush that originally had the wire from the pickup. Pickup wire to the red decoder wire and the black decoder wire to the chassis ..... Sorry to disagree Redgate, but if Andrew's dates of 77-79 is right then he has the later version and the instructions are right. According to Pat Hammond's Story of Rovex, the body was retooled in 76 to take a can motor instead. So the instructions that I gave you Andrew should be the right ones. R152 had the XO4 motor, I've got three. R156 had the can motor and Andrew says he has an R156. However, Andrew, if when you take the top off the loco you find that the motor looks different to the one in the pictures on the link, and has a large brass worm wheel and the rest of the motor chassis is steel/silver, like this http://www.tri-ang.c...chassis060B.htm, then you do have one with the Triang XO4 motor and you will need to follow Redgate's instructions above instead. But if you do, then be very careful when you solder the grey and orange wires to the motor brushes as the black carbon bits at the end are also soldered on and can get dislodged if you let the brass brush arm get too hot. EDIT: to avoid that, unsolder the copper coloured piece of metal from the brown wire coming up from the pickup. If you have a spare piece of phosphor bronze strip like the bit that you have just unsoldered from the brown wire then cut up a piece of strip so it is the same size as the bit of metal that you have just unsoldered, and bend it so that it matches the corrugated original. Now solder the orange wire to one of the bits of corrigated pieces and the grey wire to the other. You can now tuck one bit of the corrugated metal attached to the orange wire betwen the brush arm and the spring but make sure that the insulation sleeve is between the spring and the brush/corrugated piece - The metal spring MUST NOT touch the end of the orange wire or anything connected to it. Now do the same thing with the corrugated piece of metal that you soldered to the grey wire. Again make sure that the insulation sleeve is between the other spring and the brush/corrugated piece - The metal spring MUST NOT touch the end of the grey wire or anything connected to it. Now solder the brown wire from the pickups to the red wire from the decoder, and insulate the join. Solder the black wire to the tag eyelet that is screwed onto the chassis. You do not need the white TV interference suppressor that was soldered to that tag. Let us know how you get on. Any doubts come back to us. Edit End. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew09 Posted October 22, 2009 Author Share Posted October 22, 2009 Thanks guys, it looks more like the 'Early Jinty' model, I'll get back to you asap. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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