How to keep your soldering iron tip clean ?

[georgeT]

How can l get my tips clean. l wipe them with a damp sponge everytime but they soon go back to being dirty..any tips guys ?.....

[Raised On Steam]

I use a little can of tip tinner from Maplins and just give it a dip whilst it's still warm.

[Kenton]

I never use a sponge as I always think it makes matters worse. I use a tin of brass shavings and run the tip through that when finished with use and always tin the tip. Even so if left for any extended period it still seems to get dirty - convinced some oxidation goes on when left out on the bench to mature. Before powering up again I also run a piece of wet-n-dry (the cloth variety) round the tip before dipping in solder paint too re-tin. I think some fluxes are worse than others at leaving an oily residue on the tip which goes cruddy as the iron cools down. (that includes the solder paint). It is the worst nightmare as a dirty tip will be poor at transferring heat as well as unable to manipulate solder.

 

[brigo]

Acid fluxes are the real problem. Most new bits come with a thin coating of iron on the tip. Any flux with acid in will slowly dissolve the iron and then you are left with the base metal of the bit, probably copper. Copper will tend to burn away particularly if the soldering iron is not temperature controlled. Anyone remember Savbit solder which had some copper in it to try and prevent the problem.

 

Best to have at least 2 bits, one for electrical work and only ever use it with resin cored solder, and the second for use with acid fluxes.

 

Actually for use in model railways I never understand why people use acid fluxes. For electrical connections, brass, nickel silver and even stainless steel I only ever use resin cored solder. The trick is to make sure the parts to be soldered are clean. Use fine wire wool, one of those glass fibre pencil thingies (I like to replace the glass fibre with a brass or steel refill) or even a swiss file for rail etc, to lightly abraid the surface. If you think the surface may have finger grease on it give it a squirt of lighter fluid.

Works for me every time.

 

Brian

[georgeT]

Thanks for all the tips lads very helpful....

[Jintyman]

Hi George,

 

I use the same 'Ashtray' holder as Kenton does, screwed down onto the WB, but I use stainless steel pan scourers from Home Bargains (4 for £1.50 ish), and I use it regularly during most soldering operations.

 

Jinty

[meil]

A brass suede brush is also good.

[Quarryscapes]

I never use a sponge as I always think it makes matters worse. I use a tin of brass shavings and run the tip through that when finished with use and always tin the tip. Even so if left for any extended period it still seems to get dirty - convinced some oxidation goes on when left out on the bench to mature. Before powering up again I also run a piece of wet-n-dry (the cloth variety) round the tip before dipping in solder paint too re-tin. I think some fluxes are worse than others at leaving an oily residue on the tip which goes cruddy as the iron cools down. (that includes the solder paint). It is the worst nightmare as a dirty tip will be poor at transferring heat as well as unable to manipulate solder.

 

 

My soldering station came with a pot like this and a sponge - I don't even know where the sponge has gone as I only use the brass pot. 

 

If you're using lead free solder the problem could actually be the solder going 'stale' for want of a better word on the end of the bit, which doesn't take all that long.