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Eastbrook - 4mm BR/Southern layout


Doolish
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That MK1 looks rather good, but.....

 

Sorry to be a killjoy, the toilet windows still have the etch for the ventilator grille in the window space. I think they should be attached to the part of the etch between the two upper panes of the toilet windows.

Edited by leopardml2341
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...

 

If anyone has a new Hornby H Class (a wonderfully detailed loco) a word of warning about DCC. I found out the hard way that there is only one chip that will fit and that is a TCS one. The Gaugemaster and Zen products that both claim to be the smallest chip available do not allow the body to fit.

 

I fitted a Hatton's mini direct decoder in my H. It was tight, but it did fit. I do like TCS decoders, but they seem to have become more difficult to obtain at reasonable prices in recent times.

Edited by SRman
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  • 1 month later...

Now that I am taking new pills my back is not causing as many problems so I have little excuse not to press on. Got board one indoors now so I also don't freeze to death!

 

Have been working on the gap between the track work and the sloping roadway. Used some foam from Wickes which worked after a fashion but covers everywhere in foam particles. Will use a the blue compressed foam in future.

 

Have cut the base for the wall to be at the station end and will do an 0.8ply brickwork sheet to cover it.

 

Next step was to play with the Static Grass machine (Peco) that my wife gave me two Christmases ago!

 

Watched several demo's on the web and it all looks so easy. Trouble is that when something looks easy it probably isn't. There is a definite learning curve but I think I have ended up with something to be proud of.

 

I bought my grasses from WWS who, it transpires, make the machine for Peco. They are very helpful and have good videos on their web page.

 

One issue I did realise the hard way is that it only works well when putting grass on a reasonably flat surface. I had to turn the baseboard on its side to get coverage on the front of the slope. Also don't be frugal with the glue as it dries quite quickly. Also do little bits at a time gives a much better result. One thing I would do diffently is that despite everyone saying its OK to lay the grass on a white surface any future work I do I will paint the surface green before I start.

 

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The slightly white part on the bank is the spray glue and will disappear when dry.

 

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When it fully dry I will paint the road tarmac coloured and if I am brave may try and put the odd tuftf of grass on the centre line.

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One thing about all this snow is that you have no excuse for not staying in.

 

Done the tarmac on the road - not entirely happy I think it is too dark.

 

Wired in all the MERG Hector boards giving me two detectors on each of the fiddle yard sidings - one almost at the end and the other a loco's length back. Need to be wired to the control panel yet but all are working.

 

Installed three of the Gaugemaster platform lamps. There are a loose fit to brass tubes going through the baseboard. Changing the resistors around to trry and get the right brightness. Need to get a tighter fit to the tube somehow.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Have now completed the wall - just need capping stones from plasticard.

 

Road was initially a disaster. Was using a 'Tarmac' paint I got from Squires. It is a solid back and the texture part is overdone. Tried to work out an alternative but first decided to sand off the paint I had done and hey presto a perfect worn tarmac road!

 

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Have now done a complete redraw of the station building and will start cutting it out as soon as the snow goes

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Have been putting off dealing with the hidden fiddle yard. I wanted to try and set it up so that if the layout was ever to be exhibited that access to the fiddle yard sidings would be easy to get to stock etc. Have tried to set it up on a cantilever basis so that there is no fixings at the back. Decided to make the structure from Acrylic as it is much stronger than wood. The acrylic parts have been cut and assembled with a 5mm square brass tube that passes through the baseboard and is held straight with a bracket underneath.

 

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The first section of the structure has been assembled and fitted. Whilst quite strong I think I may have to resort to a support every two sections.

 

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Before working further along I have to work out the final dimensions of the platform. I have now cut the platform out to the station buildings final dimensions. The final station building is being built and will show photos when finished.

 

Also been distracted by MERG who eventually created a kit for their turntable project. Have now built the board and all seems to check out so far. Building a box for it to all fit in and wire it all up. Again photos when I get a bit nearer the finished item.

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Today has been one of those good days. As mentioned before I had build the MERG turntable system board so today was putting everything together.

 

The turntable is a standard PECO one although I have build extra stansions between the deck and the frame - as per most real ones. Fixing the Step motor was not too bad as I had already built a housing for a larger stepper motor and all I needed was to cut a new top. The motor and gearbox I had from an O gauge turntable although it is a 500:1 rather than a 250:1 recomended by MERG. An email to the designer of the board resulted in a new programe file which I took to the MERG meating in Saouthampton and they kindly uploarded it for me.

 

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The Control board is now in a box and all the other components have been fitted and wired up. The rotary switch is to be shortened when I have a final set up. This control looks like a standard wafer switch but is actually a HEX switch so it sends a different code to the board,

 

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Completed a 7ft 6 wire cable and attached it all together. System has its own 12v supply. Moment of truth when IO switched it on and the LEDs went through the correct sequence. Pressed to button and low and behold the turntable moved! It is a little slow due to the different gearbox but I now have a new HEX file that will solve this - will take to the next MERG meeting in Southampton.

 

All in all a lot of work but have achieved exactly what I wanted. Install in the basboard next and then programe in all the various roads.

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Had a bit of a problem with the turntable as everything seemed to work OK but when I went to program in the exact route settings it accepted them all but when I switched the system to run NOTHING.

quick email to Brian at MERG gave me some issues to look far and after testing voltage on various bits of the PCB found an incorect voltage. Closer look revieled what may have been a dry joint and after resoldering everything now works fine.

 

Also decide to do something with the three Infer red sersons. I had originally planned to use an arduino to monitor each board and send the message to another arduino within my consul. At the recent MERG meeting they suggested that this was possibly asking for trouble and suggested it did it with individual wires so have now wired them all in and installed a DSub socket on the board to deal with just these signals. All appears to work fine.

 

Nothing worth taking a picture of.

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Finished the TurnTable control box today so everything is now finished with the exception that I haven't test run it today.

 

Wife and I have had enough agro today and I don't want anymore!

 

Test will be tomorrow.

 

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Not a lot of progress over the week as I have been working with John Shaw to make a set of OO/EM Railers together with an extension. The prime objective being something that works with Kaydee couplings - these get caught on all others railers I have tried.

 

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This is now all complete and am getting on with the station building and canopy as without this fitted I cannot realy work on the surrounding area.

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  • 1 month later...

It has been a while since I last posted. Seem to have been doing a lot but nothing to show!

 

Have taken a decision not to laser cut my own retaining but to use Metcalfe kits for it and the backdrop Terraced Houses.

 

Have completed enough wall for the 1st board and they are now attacked to my supports - just have to do a sloping grassy bang at the end - looks better than I thought!

 

Have nearly finished two of the houses - a lot more to do but at least I can see progress is being made. Eventually I will do my own but want to get the whole layout working quickly.

 

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Have a row of 4 shops to do which will be at one end.

 

Have a problem though - Metcalfe in there wisdom do a set of retaining wall, slopes, viaducts, bridges in Stone and Brick. However they only do the single and double tunnel on Stone! Will have to try and invent something.

 

 

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Having said that I was busy but with nothing to show for it I have today finished putting together a set of vans.

 

Personally I prefer trains made up of vans as that is what I remember - those and oil tanks from Fawley.

 

Now a long spraying session is on the cards!

 

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All have been weighted at 3g each which seems to work.

 

I now must make the decision I have been putting off for ages - Couplings. I have a few vans fitted with Kadees as I thought I could use rare earth magnets to operate. However they do not operate as well as I would want. I think that if had fitted Kadee square magnets before I laid the track it would have worked better however having just operated a layout that uses them I was not impressed - especially dont like the fact that an uncoupled van gets pulled towards the magnet as it is acting on the axle.

 

My first choice had been Sprat and Winkle 3mm couplings and I think this is the way forward. I will however probably use the Kadee's on coaching stock as uncoupling is not so much of an issue. May have to fit a S&W on the end coaches so having the ability to use all loco's.

 

However the thought of having to make loads of S&W's is frightening but at the end of the day they will work well. Why doesn't someone invent a S&W coupling to fit a NEM socket!

 

Anyone got thoughts one way or the other?

Edited by Doolish
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My favourite loco has now arrived at Eastbrook -  thanks you Hattons for getting this one done. I can vividly remember these lovely loco's at Winchester and Southampton Town Quay.

 

I have two O gauge models so perhaps I should get another to even things up.

 

Purchased a DCC fitted loco as have had problems with the H Class I tried to chip and this is smaller.

 

Put on layout and runs a dream straight away.

 

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Waiting with interest to see the first person on the web who has managed to get a sound card in!

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have been very distracted by my bloody back so have not done much!

 

I had decided that rather than laser cut all the building I would make do with some Metcalfe kits to at least show something is moving on. I must admit that the thought of drawin/making/painting all these buildings has held me back from doing anything.

 

I will now complete all the area over the fiddle yard with these kits and then replace them at a later date.

 

The buildings for the first board are nearly complete.

 

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Board 2 will have more terraced houses/ shops.

 

Board 3 will have a factory/ Warehouse and the building fore these are complete. Will look something like

 

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Hopefully my back will start behaving itself soon and I can get round to doing the pavement/roads for these.

 

.

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Moving on from my last post I noticed in a model railway mag that Metcalfe were introducing a two road engine set. When the kit appeared on their web page I looked at the dimensions to find that it is almost exactly the size of one I had started drawing a CAD file for. What was even more to my liking was the fact that it seems to have been based on a Southern shed as it is very close the the Basingstoke and Plymouth Friary shed - if it had a glazed area above the entrance it would be almost spot on.

I ordered one and it arrived on Saturday. It is quite a large kit with a multitude of parts. Took 2 days of work whenever my back would allow it!  I did not have quite the room to fit the 'workshop' along one of the side so fixed it to the rear.

 
Just need some cast chimneys and it is finished. I am very happy with the result.

 

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On another side of the Metcalfe kits is the fact they do not do a matching brick tunnel. After some clever Photoshop work by John Shaw we have ended up with a perfect solution that looks although it was a Metcalfe kit. Great comment from m,y email to Metcalfe asking why they don't do a brick tunnel - 'There is no demand for it' came the reply - perhaps if they made one the demand would be there!

 

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I should buy shares in Metcalfe!

 

Other issue are that We are looking into extending my 'den' to allow the layout to come 'indoors'. At present my room is 3/4 of one of out garages - it has a raised floor and its own lighting/ power & heating. The idea is to now make it the full length. One problem is that for some reason this garage is 1ft shorter than the other so I may have to trim one of the boards but that would not be an issue if I can get it in where I can use it all year.

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As you're buying shares in Metcalfe you might as well pass your laser cutter over to me and free up more space in your garage. ;-). Good to see progress despite the back.

 

Cheers

Dave

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Couplings:


 


Personally, I wouldn't use S & Ws as they usually require a lot of surgery to the vehicle you are fitting them to. I use DGs which are etched brass but modified to make assembly and operation simpler. (See my layout thread "Woodstowe" post #44.) You can also use the similar B & Bs which will couple to them. The "pro" for the latter is that they come ready blackened, but the "con" is they are bit more fiddly to make us.


 


I would suggest you stick to one pattern of coupler, otherwise you create operational problems for yourself. Locos are restricted to either goods or passenger trains, but not both unless you have vehicles with a Kadee at one end and your other chosen couple at the other. You also can't add tail traffic or run mixed trains, either.   


 


I did consider Kadees, but didn't consider their operation prototypical. They are designed for use with N. American stock where locos couple up to them by stopping a yard or so away and then charging at the wagons or coaches so that the knuckles engage. Quite fun to watch in 1:1 scale, but in the UK, locos gently buffered up to wagons or whatever and then a shunter would chuck the 3 links over a hook and that was that - unless screws were fitted and he had to get down between the buffers and tighten them up!


 


Hope this is useful.  


 


David C


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Thanks for the comment - not seen DGs before. Have looked at various YouTube and web pages. Looks very interesting my only concern would be the installation of electro magnets as all my track is now laid.#

 

Might try a sample from Wizard

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Was helping out on a layout at the Romsey show on Sunday and by chance the layout behind ours was using DG couplings. I had a long chat and was certainly impressed with them working.

 

However I have been trying to find information/instructions on them. I note from the Wizard site that there are two variations but nowhere can I find out the difference.

 

I am slightly put of by the need to install electro magnets but with good planning the numbers could be minimized.

 

If anyone has an instruction sheet I would be grateful if they could either email it to me or publish on this site. 

 

Here's hoping 

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Finished the building for the backdrop!

 

All photographs are from the 1st board as I haven't actually done the retaining wall although the wall sections have been built.

 

First Board

 

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The station building is wrong way round but you may notice I have started covering in Metcalfe Red Brick so that it blends in.

 

Second Boards

 

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There will be a road between the last terrace and the shops and another between the shops here and the Factory Buildings.

 

Third Board

 

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These will, I think, stay in this order.  As for the fourth board beyond the factory I think will be a rough grassed area with a few trees.

 

On the coupling front I expect the DG parts from Wizard today. Having now seen the instruction, that were emailed to me by Andrew at Wizard, I am moving towards them. The only downside I can see is the requirement for Electro Magnets (£7.50). However I think, as the instruction say, that with a bit of planing these could be kept to a minimum. The test will be, I think, how reliable the 'delay latch' is. I think they will be easier to make that S&W.

 

Would like to just have a bar on the loco's - does anyone know it this works?

 

Next task is to break down the Eastbrook layout in the garage and bring the O gauge boards back to where they should be so I can take photo's of it with the intention of selling it.

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  • 1 month later...

The last post ended by saying I was going to try and get the layout indoors by extending the part of the garage that I had as my railway room.

 

That was a month or so ago and whilst I have done very little modelling in that time the result of my change is now a reality.

 

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For those observant amongst you yes the layout is the wrong way round. This will enable me to finish the 'town' supports that cover the fiddle yard.

 

On the modelling side I did try and make a few of the DG couplings and found that they are very time consuming to make. I do agree that there operation is very good but have shelved the idea for the moment.

 

Instead I have been batch making Sprat & Winkles and once you have a jig made up they can be made quite fast - it is the making of the chain that takes the time.

 

No modelling as such but I did purchase a Pannier and Autotrailer to add a bit of GWR to the layout - will keep our chairman happy. I ordered a sound card from YouChoos and they added three extra sounds to the chip that cover the Autotrailer. The sound card will be put into the loco and I have already put a speaker in the guards area which is right next to the loco so should work OK.

 

I sent both of to GrimeyTimes for him to work his magic and fit brass plates. The result is absolutely superb.

 

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The two are on a shelf that I have put next to my desk so that I can test locos and DCC cards without having to fire up the entire layout.

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