RMweb Premium Izzy Posted August 30, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 30, 2016 I have always found that fixing the rear bogie and giving it compensation and split axle current collection, along with either springing the driven axles or again using compensating beams, provides a rock solid chassis where the maximum traction is concentrated on the drivers alongside the best possible current collection. I did write about this in a short article for the July 1984 Model Railway mag but that was of course a very long time ago. This was to P4, but the general principles hold good whatever the scale/gauge. I built a few of these using the Craftsman kit, but I am not quite sure/can't remember if I use the original chassis or the milled ones from Alan Gibson. Probably the original with the first one at least since it had Ultrascale wheels and the later ones Gibson. Whatever, they used Mashima 16x30 can motors driving an enclosed gearbox on the front axle via a rubber coupling. If it would be any help I will try and dig out any photos I have in case they may be useful - they will be old film ones not digitised so not easy to locate! Izzy edited to add a bit Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted August 30, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 30, 2016 Hi My love affair with the Johnson 1P tank loco has now migrated to O Gauge, but before I left I made use of the 4mm Craftsman kit. It has its limitations but remains a favourite of mine. If it helps, I used the chassis kit provided to fabricate my own and used sprung hornblocks for the main drivers and made the bogie with a U channel centre spacer with pivoted side frames as compensation. This left the cab free of the Mashima motor and Branchlines narrow fold up gearbox. The only 4mm kits that I know have been Craftsman or Just Magic (JM) kit for the SDJR version. Sadly no longer available ,although they still come up on ebay. Bill Bedford (Mousa Models) has had a 4mm 1P chassis kit (LFF1700) in preperation for the past 15years it might be worth contacting him ??????? Good luck with yours..... John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazzler Fan Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 My Dad was always buying job lots and the chassis of 25A was in one of those. I added the pony truck using a block of sponge foam for springing. Sometime I must sort out the cab roof and give it its Salter valves . Phil, What is the length of your footplate? Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold phil_sutters Posted September 7, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 7, 2016 Phil, What is the length of your footplate? Noel 90mm from buffer-beam to buffer-beam. I was building around the brass chassis and using the official photo as a guide, so I was trying to get the right impression, rather than a accurate scale model. I hope that helps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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