Bachmann Dynamis Without Batteries

[traction]

From the specs of the Model P transformer, if I've got the correct one:-

 

Input: Mains (240 volts A.C.) use 3 amp fuse
Output: 1 x 12v DC at 1 amp controlled (simulator)
Accessories: 
1 x 12v D.C. at 1 amp uncontrolled
1 x 16v A.C. at 1 amp 
Measurements: 148mm x 90mm x 125mm deep

 

The PSU you've linked to is also 1000mA (1amp)

its the same current, it could be that it needs to be a much better smooth DC voltage that you need, which the controller is not giving you.

The DC PSU might give a smoother DC voltage.

 

Cheers

 

Ian

[Phil S]

Partial success this evening.

First I found a brand new pack of 4 AAA batteries which I measured at 1.62v each on my Multi-meter, I then installed them in the dismantled handset with the assistance of the G-clamps as per yesterday

I then measured 6.4v between the Ubatt and GND points and 5.5v between between UB and GND, However still exactly 3.67v from VCC to GND

 

So I powered up the alarm clock transformer mentioned yesterday and wired this between Ubatt and GND and my Dynamis handset fully powered up without batteries, although at only 5.5v this caused the low battery symbol to be displayed on the screen. I then swapped this transformer for my Gaugemaster controller set to 6v but unfortunately this gave the same outcome as the previous time I tried it with all the on screen symbols being displayed when powered up, I imagine this controller is pumping out too many amps for the unit to handle.

 

Phil; It is possible, if not probable?,  that the Gaugemaster controller is actually a pulsed 12V ... with 50% on time at that speed setting to give average 6V

Without a scope, you could check the 'smoothness/quality' of the supply by setting your multimeter to 'AC V' - and if the result is NOT 0 volts, when the controller is outputting the 6V DC you measured on the dc setting, then there is a detectable ac ripple (or even pulse chain) on the output which the HANDSET - being designed to be powered from SMOOTH batteries will not be anticipating having to smooth - so there are probably minimal or no capacitors before the voltage regulator!   DO NOT WORRY that the regulator output is 3.6V .... regardless of your input voltage - that is doing what it is designed to do!   The battery warning is obviously set so that a drop from 6.4V (new batteries) to 5.5V is enough to trigger the low battery indication - this may, or may not affect actual operation of the unit!

 

This is a 5.99 UK supplier dc-dc convertr on EBAY which would allow you a choice of power supply - this has a built in voltage display: others are available.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XL4015-5A-DC-DC-Voltage-Step-Down-Buck-Converter-like-LM2596-LED-Volt-meter-UK-/182071344571?hash=item2a644c3dbb:g:sLYAAOSwdU1W-p9o

 

I see in other posts that you may have found another suitable supply.   Of course- rechargable batteries would retain the portabliity of the cordless controller 8-)

 

[dale159]

I have ordered the transformer from Rapid as linked to previously, I have also bought some stereo speaker wire type connectors of which I am going to place several around my layout in the event I bought another Dynamis handset and in theory I think I should still be able to use it with batteries away from my layout.

 

Dale

Edited November 7, 2016 by dale159

[Crosland]

I imagine this controller is pumping out too many amps for the unit to handle.

 

Controllers "pump" out volts, not amps. The connected load will only take the current it requires, if available.

 

A more likely scenario is that the transformer does not have a clean DC output.

[dale159]

Success!

 

My order from Rapid Electronics came today and within 10 minutes of unpacking the parcel I have a Dynamis Handset operating without batteries.

 

A quick continuity test with the multi-meter confirmed that the battery holders I identified previously are linked directly to the points on the PCB board I have been testing with, which makes me happier because these will be a lot easier to solder to than those tiny holes on the PCB.

 

Screen without low battery warning as per previous test.

 

Thank you to everyone for their input that has helped me get this sorted.

 

Dale

 

 

[dale159]

Just a quick update.

 

My Dynamis handset now has 8 feet of cable protruding from the bottom of it. I was hoping to fit the cable through the lanyard clip but the size of the cable meant this was not possible so the lanyard will go back into the box, I tested the handset on both the transformer I bought, which is yet to be plumbed into my layout, and on battery power (obviously batteries are removed if running on mins power)

 

And for attaching the other end of the cable to the layout I am using 2 way speaker connectors, 2 fitted so far one each side of the fiddle yard control panel.

 

Dale

[Phil S]

A next-stage solution or modification would be to use plugs and sockets at each end, so that the handset can be used without 8 ft of tripwire permanently attached..... A plug/ socket combination would pull out on a 'trip'. Also ,NCE assembled, there would be no risk of music connection.

Edited November 15, 2016 by Phil S

[Phil S]

A next-stage solution or modification would be to use plugs and sockets at each end, so that the handset can be used without 8 ft of tripwire permanently attached..... A plug/ socket combination would pull out on a 'trip'. Also ,NCE assembled, there would be no risk of music connection.

Phil: That should have read....... "Also, once assembled, there would be no risk of mis-connection." 8-)

Whether you have music playing is entirely up to you..... But a flat battery last night interrupted editing the text, midway.

I was then confused by the site offering me the ability to edit the entire topic!!!.... Hence this separate clarification, after an overnight recharge.

[dale159]

I did think about that Phil, unfortunately I couldn't find a suitable connector small enough to fit into the limited space inside.

 

Dale

[Phil S]

An alternative option would be a very-short permanently attached lead, and an inline plug+socket.

An economical way of 'making' these, is to buy a ready-made lead on ebay, and cut into 2 pieces (1 short, 1 long)

 

I do this with 9-pin serial d-type cables - and take them apart to give me 9 or 10 fine coloured wires and 2 ready-wired connectors

(5 or 10m !)    >>  But equally with eg 3.5mm mini-jack plug and socket extension leads of 3m  <<

 

Some designs of connector are made to be surface mounted - but these may only br found with more specialist suppliers

[dale159]

Afternoon

 

Sorry to dig up my old thread but I thought I'd share something which I have just discovered which will make my life operating my layout a bit easier.

 

So, with reference to the above picture, on the left we have 37410 (address 7410) programmed into the left hand handset and on the right we have 37025 (address 7025) programmed into the right hand handset. Neither loco is listed in the stack of the opposite handset.

 

I wondered if I added the locos to a consist of the same number (I chose consist no. 2) in their respective handsets whether I would be able to drive both simultaneously, and the answer is yes you can!

 

Shame that my pair of 37s didn't run at the same speed for the test but I don't think that is because of the controller set up, might have to try it with another pair of locos just to be sure.

 

Dale

[NickC]

Dale, just curious but how long did your handsets used to last on a set of batteries?

Also how directional is the infa-red connection? i.e. How easy is it to point it in the 'wrong' direction and loose connection?

Edited October 28, 2017 by NickC

[dale159]

Dale, just curious but how long did your handsets used to last on a set of batteries?

Also how directional is the infa-red connection? i.e. How easy is it to point it in the 'wrong' direction and loose connection?

Hi Nick,

 

The batteries don't seem to last all that long I couldn't tell you exactly how long as mine has only really seen use in short bursts for testing. As for infra-red signal I have a Pro box with splitter for an additional 4 infra-red receivers on cables although I didn't use this for this test.

 

Also I found when using the pro box if I changed handsets the base station remembered all the locos off the previous one and transmitted these to the second one overrighting those that were already on there so I intend go without the pro box and just use the original base station with the splitter for additional receivers.

 

Dale

[Ron Ron Ron]

........As for infra-red signal I have a Pro box with splitter for an additional 4 infra-red receivers on cables although I didn't use this for this test.

 

Also I found when using the pro box if I changed handsets the base station remembered all the locos off the previous one and transmitted these to the second one overrighting those that were already on there so I intend go without the pro box and just use the original base station with the splitter for additional receivers.

 

 

 

Hi Dale

 

It might be worth checking that the  IR extension (splitter) will work on the base station without the Pro Box.

I say this as the ability to use the splitter and use up to 4 additional IR receivers, is listed as one of the additional features that the Pro Box provides over the basic system.

 

Regarding the sync'ing of rosters between handsets, this is a very useful feature and only becomes a problem if you wish to store more than 40 locos in the systems memory.

Presumably you are using more than 40 locos with this system?

If not, I cannot see any reason to remove the Pro Box.

 

Ron

 

 

.

[dale159]

Hi Dale

 

It might be worth checking that the  IR extension (splitter) will work on the base station without the Pro Box.

I say this as the ability to use the splitter and use up to 4 additional IR receivers, is listed as one of the additional features that the Pro Box provides over the basic system.

 

Regarding the sync'ing of rosters between handsets, this is a very useful feature and only becomes a problem if you wish to store more than 40 locos in the systems memory.

Presumably you are using more than 40 locos with this system?

If not, I cannot see any reason to remove the Pro Box.

 

Ron

 

 

.

 

Thank you Ron.

 

I probably ought to try that but I am fairly confident it will still work!

 

Dale