ejstubbs Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 My current plan for my control panel is to have a track diagram on the upper portion of the panel, with toggle switches embedded in the diagram for the power sections. The crossovers, turnouts and signals would be numbered on the diagram - like on a traditional signal box diagram - and the lower portion of the panel would have a row of numbered toggle switches as a rough analogue to a lever frame. I reckon the control panel is going to need to be roughly 300mm wide by 250mm deep to accommodate the above comfortably. RS do an ABS plastic enclosure with a sloping aluminium front panel which seems to fit the bill for ~£40. The other alternative would be to build one myself using alu sheet or perspex for the front panel and probably MDF from offcuts that I already have for the box. Pricing up the panel sheet, and adding a notional cost for my own time, there doesn't seem to be much in it cost-wise. It also seems to me that there's enough work in the wiring without allowing even more time to pass by without trains running while I get the box built! So at the moment I'm leaning towards buying the enclosure from RS. Is there any reason why this might be a bad idea? Are there other ways I might go about it which could be both cheaper and quicker? I have seen Iain Rice's idea of just putting the switches at the side of the baseboard, adjacent to the thing they are controlling, but I suspect that might be a bit inefficient in terms of wire lengths on my layout. Anyway, I rather like the idea of having a pretend signal box (inspired, in fact, by another suggestion in Rice's book). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff park Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Not sure why you cost your time in, I don't think anything we do is cost effective. Anyway if you think abot making your own, and have access to a router, you can make some framing as shown. (Had real trouble uploading this oicture by the way) Softwood about 75mm X 22mm is a starting point. Top slot for acrylic, bottom for MDF or hardboard. Corners are mitred. Depth to suit switches, controllers etc, overall size to suit your plan. Frame.docx Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete the Elaner Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 I enjoy building control panels: both the case & the innards. I use off cuts of ply & a perspex panel. I don't really count the cost but I am sure it would be less than buying a ready made panel. I agree with Cliff that the cost is irrelevant - if you enjoy building it then do it. If you don't then buy a suitable ready-made box. It sounds to me like you are keen to see some trains running so are erring towards the quicker solution. There are so many aspects to this hobby. I guess this is one of the things which makes it so appealing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John ks Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Here are a couple of control panels from my layout This one is slightly larger This is the inside of it & this one is fairly small Most of my control panels are flush mounted into the facia The construction of the open one should be fairly obvious I make my panels out of a product that I know as Lamipanel. It is about 3mm thick is coloured or patterned on one side & back side is a brownish colour & is used in bathrooms The artwork on the front of the panel is drawn in windows paint (you use what you got) & I do it as a bitmap image (very fiddley& time consuming &You don't get jpeg artefacts) The image is printed onto A4Transperant Adhesive Labels I do a test print onto paper and use that as a template to drill the switch and indicator holes In the panel Stick the adhesive label over the panel being careful to line up the predrilled holes Cover the panel with a clear self adhesive to protect the artwork Cut out the switch holes.I Don't cut out the indicator holes, I just push 2mm leds into the indicator holes & they can be seen quite clearly through the artwork & protective layer This may give you some inspiration John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 It probably comes down to your level of skill, some of us couldn't make a mitred joint (what ever that is) if our lives depended on it. I don't like big complicated control panels myself. I put rotary switches through hardboard strips and feed the extended shafts through Holes in 2X1 framing of the baseboard giving a long thin 'Panel' for points or sections Or a mimic diagram with studs on each siding or route for an electric pencil can be quite shallow. As walk round controllers become more common the point controls need to be near the points, as do uncoupler controls near the uncouplers, not grouped round the controllers. Not an issue with a 6X4 unless you have a station each side but when you get to 10 feet plus a single panel can be a pain. I like to be able to see my trains close up. Control panels can look impressive and neat and be a total pain in the heel to operate. Different switch styles for different purposes looks ugly but can be a lot easier to use. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium dhjgreen Posted October 25, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 25, 2016 Here are a couple of control panels from my layout 100_0463.JPG This one is slightly larger IMG_0298.JPG This is the inside of it IMG_0293.JPG & this one is fairly small 100_1415.JPG Most of my control panels are flush mounted into the facia The construction of the open one should be fairly obvious I make my panels out of a product that I know as Lamipanel. It is about 3mm thick is coloured or patterned on one side & back side is a brownish colour & is used in bathrooms The artwork on the front of the panel is drawn in windows paint (you use what you got) & I do it as a bitmap image (very fiddley& time consuming &You don't get jpeg artefacts) The image is printed onto A4Transperant Adhesive Labels I do a test print onto paper and use that as a template to drill the switch and indicator holes In the panel Stick the adhesive label over the panel being careful to line up the predrilled holes Cover the panel with a clear self adhesive to protect the artwork Cut out the switch holes.I Don't cut out the indicator holes, I just push 2mm leds into the indicator holes & they can be seen quite clearly through the artwork & protective layer This may give you some inspiration John As ejstubbs was asking about small control panels, you work would be more suited to this topic http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/38589-control-panels-show-us-yours/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lancs_fus Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 Go with the RS enclosure but with the printed out artwork done by yourself and then you get the best of both worlds, a professional looking enclosure tailored to your situation and relatively quick on the time front. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted November 7, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 7, 2016 Hi there, don't like or want to do woodwork? Ikea is your saviour! Look for:- IKEA GLIS Transparent/Clear Pencil Storage Box with Compartments & Hinged Lid Just over a foot wide, 8 inch depth and 3 inch height Available in store, online and on eBay Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 I recently made a small control panel enclosure. I just couldn't find the right size enclosure available commercially. 5 bits of thick ply and job done. The enclosure is angled towards the operator and the box is reversible so it could be used either at the front or back of the layout. I'm fairly hopeless at electrics, so I used screw terminal connectors, two under the baseboard and two inside the enclosure. The mimic diagram was screen printed onto 3mm white coated aluminium sheet and then drilled for toggles, pushbuttons etc. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejstubbs Posted November 8, 2016 Author Share Posted November 8, 2016 IKEA GLIS Transparent/Clear Pencil Storage Box with Compartments & Hinged Lid Just over a foot wide, 8 inch depth and 3 inch height Interesting suggestion, thanks for that. I already have quite a few of the smaller GLIS boxes - I find them ideal for keeping random assemblages of smallish stuff under control. At £4, I may very well get one of these larger ones just to see whether it might be up to the job. If nothing else it could be useful as a prototype for the final article - I'd feel happier drilling holes in a £4 IKEA box 'just to see' than in an alu panel on a £30-40 ABS enclosure! (And according to IKEA's website your and my local store has it in stock. Hmm, what time I do need to get to the office today...?) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lancs_fus Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 ...I'm fairly hopeless at electrics... I see very little evidence to support this statement.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Chimer Posted November 10, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 10, 2016 I recently made a small control panel enclosure. I just couldn't find the right size enclosure available commercially. 5 bits of thick ply and job done. The enclosure is angled towards the operator and the box is reversible so it could be used either at the front or back of the layout. I'm fairly hopeless at electrics, so I used screw terminal connectors, two under the baseboard and two inside the enclosure. The mimic diagram was screen printed onto 3mm white coated aluminium sheet and then drilled for toggles, pushbuttons etc. I see very little evidence to support this statement.... But ample evidence of woodworking skills .... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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