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Zimo Sound Decoder and Aux 1


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I have a Hornby Class 153 which has got internal (passenger compartment/carriage) lights that are attached to Aux1. However I cannot turn them on. I have tried all 28 Function keys on my Z21 in both continuous and temporary mode and they do not come on. This is a Digitrains Class 156/150/153 Digidrive by Tony Molyneux. 

 

According to the Function Key List, Aux 1 is allocated to F8. Are there any CVs I need to check to make sure that they are set for this to happen. I don't really understand mapping but I can happily and confidently read and change CVs easily. I have been reading the manual for Zimo small decoders all day and I really don't understand it. Just when I think information is going in and a glimmer of understanding appears, the next sentence just confuses me.

 

The loco has directional front and rear lights which work perfectly and as as they should from F0. As do all the sounds from the Function Keys List. Any help really, really appreciated.

 

Thanks.

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I have a Hornby Class 153 which has got internal (passenger compartment/carriage) lights that are attached to Aux1. However I cannot turn them on. I have tried all 28 Function keys on my Z21 in both continuous and temporary mode and they do not come on. This is a Digitrains Class 156/150/153 Digidrive by Tony Molyneux. 

 

According to the Function Key List, Aux 1 is allocated to F8. Are there any CVs I need to check to make sure that they are set for this to happen. I don't really understand mapping but I can happily and confidently read and change CVs easily. I have been reading the manual for Zimo small decoders all day and I really don't understand it. Just when I think information is going in and a glimmer of understanding appears, the next sentence just confuses me.

 

The loco has directional front and rear lights which work perfectly and as as they should from F0. As do all the sounds from the Function Keys List. Any help really, really appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

There are a number of different ways to set up AUX 1 on F 8 on a ZIMO decoder, and they can all co-exist. I don't know which method Tony has used in this project, but the simplest way for a single light or group of lights would be to use ZIMO Extended Mapping. This requires that CV61 = 97 to set it up, then CV42 = 4 to assign Aux 1 (set by Bit 3 which has the decimal value of 4) to F key 8 (CV42). You could check these out.

 

The lights have to be physically connected to Aux 1 as well, so check the wiring connections and ensure any spring type connectors (if the model has them) are making proper contact.

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

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There are a number of different ways to set up AUX 1 on F 8 on a ZIMO decoder, and they can all co-exist. I don't know which method Tony has used in this project, but the simplest way for a single light or group of lights would be to use ZIMO Extended Mapping. This requires that CV61 = 97 to set it up, then CV42 = 4 to assign Aux 1 (set by Bit 3 which has the decimal value of 4) to F key 8 (CV42). You could check these out.

 

The lights have to be physically connected to Aux 1 as well, so check the wiring connections and ensure any spring type connectors (if the model has them) are making proper contact.

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

 

Thanks for that. I checked the CVs mentioned and they are as you state. I suspect that there is a wire loose. Sadly an arthritic thumb precludes me from taking most locos apart and soldering small wires in confined spaces. I have just made a great blunder too. I was told that setting CV 8 to 8 would cure a problem with non working lights on a Class 37 with a Zimo the other day that I had sent away for a reblow to Zimo ActiveDrive (which is just brilliant - I am slowly having all my Zimo decoders reblown to this. Around 25 locos). I have just tried it on my 153 causing a disaster! It is now sitting on the track with directional light only on and not moving, not answering any F keys, no sound, lights that are on not changing when I change loco direction. Expensive mistake I suspect. I live and learn ...

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Thanks for that. I checked the CVs mentioned and they are as you state. I suspect that there is a wire loose. Sadly an arthritic thumb precludes me from taking most locos apart and soldering small wires in confined spaces. I have just made a great blunder too. I was told that setting CV 8 to 8 would cure a problem with non working lights on a Class 37 with a Zimo the other day that I had sent away for a reblow to Zimo ActiveDrive (which is just brilliant - I am slowly having all my Zimo decoders reblown to this. Around 25 locos). I have just tried it on my 153 causing a disaster! It is now sitting on the track with directional light only on and not moving, not answering any F keys, no sound, lights that are on not changing when I change loco direction. Expensive mistake I suspect. I live and learn ...

You should be able to get a replacement from the original supplier for approx £15.00. They will return it to Zimo for repair. Cheaper than getting a new one. Although setting Cv 8 = 8 should put the decoder back to the set up it was at when you bought it. In some cases this will be back to address 3. Try doing it again on the programming track not on the main. Can you read the address ?.

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Thanks for that. I checked the CVs mentioned and they are as you state. I suspect that there is a wire loose. Sadly an arthritic thumb precludes me from taking most locos apart and soldering small wires in confined spaces. I have just made a great blunder too. I was told that setting CV 8 to 8 would cure a problem with non working lights on a Class 37 with a Zimo the other day that I had sent away for a reblow to Zimo ActiveDrive (which is just brilliant - I am slowly having all my Zimo decoders reblown to this. Around 25 locos). I have just tried it on my 153 causing a disaster! It is now sitting on the track with directional light only on and not moving, not answering any F keys, no sound, lights that are on not changing when I change loco direction. Expensive mistake I suspect. I live and learn ...

Thank you for your kind words about ActiveDrive sound projects, I believe there is no easier way for end users to accurately simulate every combination of movement and appropriate sounds.

 

The information you were given on how to reset the decoder is accurate.

 

CV8 = 8 is the correct way to reset to the sound project defaults.

 

Using this will not damage your decoder.

 

If the reset is incomplete for any reason, you may temporarilly lose access to certain features or motor control, but that is recoverable.

 

I find that resets are more reliable using Service Mode programming (Programming Track) rather than POM (Programming On the Main).

 

My suggestion is that you make further attempts at resetting that decoder, you may need several attempts to get it to 'stick' depending upon your DCC controller, and remember that the loco address will also be reset to the normal default of '3'.

 

None of this will rewire our models, so you will need to ensure that everthing is connected as it should be.

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

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Sorry, many apologies, didn't realise that you were the Paul who does Digitrains ActiveDrive and that I was speaking to Decoder Royalty. Wow!

 

Thanks for the help and suggestions. Discovered this morning that the fault was "mechanical"! Mainly because nothing was working. The power lead had come out of the router on my Z21 system - I had moved it during the day so it may have been have been loose. For some reason it decided to fall off just as I pressed "programme" to enter 8 in CV8. The fact that I was about 10 feet away totally not linking the two actions together in my brain! So, although I had track power etc, no messages were transferring from my iPad to the Z21 controller. All working ok now apart from the aforementioned lights. Phew ...

 

Wouldn't it be good if decoders could reconnect wires ... perhaps one day?

 

I now suspect that it is a stray wire. I may ask Digitrains about rebooting all three of my 153s anyway if you have conjured up an ActiveDrive for these DMUs.

 

THANKS 

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Sorry, many apologies, didn't realise that you were the Paul who does Digitrains ActiveDrive and that I was speaking to Decoder Royalty. Wow!

 

Thanks for the help and suggestions. Discovered this morning that the fault was "mechanical"! Mainly because nothing was working. The power lead had come out of the router on my Z21 system - I had moved it during the day so it may have been have been loose. For some reason it decided to fall off just as I pressed "programme" to enter 8 in CV8. The fact that I was about 10 feet away totally not linking the two actions together in my brain! So, although I had track power etc, no messages were transferring from my iPad to the Z21 controller. All working ok now apart from the aforementioned lights. Phew ...

 

Wouldn't it be good if decoders could reconnect wires ... perhaps one day?

 

I now suspect that it is a stray wire. I may ask Digitrains about rebooting all three of my 153s anyway if you have conjured up an ActiveDrive for these DMUs.

 

THANKS 

 

'Have you got any fuel in the tank, sir?'

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Sorry, not understanding the reply?

 

It was a light hearted reference to checking out the simple stuff before assuming catastrophic electronic failure.

 

Imagine your car stops suddenly. I could be because the engine ECU has failed. But it is worth checking if a more simple reason for the breakdown exists, hence 'Have you got any fuel in the tank, sir?' is one of the early questions a mechanic would ask (either of the driver or of himself).

 

Paul

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OK, I'm with it now. Bit slow today. Apologies. I have taken the roof off partly off tonight to have a look at the wiring. I very gently used a small screwdriver to check the connections to the internal lights but no obvious loose wires. Put the roof back on and magically the lights were working. So, may be a dodgy connection but it is not obvious. I will monitor over time now. The lights are not as bright as the other two 153s I have but working. May be due to the windows being darker in a different livery? So F8 is attached to Aux 1 as per the data sheet for the decoder. I assume that there is a CV that will dim and brighten the lights ... if you have any suggestions please?? Thanks,

 

Ian

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OK, I'm with it now. Bit slow today. Apologies. I have taken the roof off partly off tonight to have a look at the wiring. I very gently used a small screwdriver to check the connections to the internal lights but no obvious loose wires. Put the roof back on and magically the lights were working. So, may be a dodgy connection but it is not obvious. I will monitor over time now. The lights are not as bright as the other two 153s I have but working. May be due to the windows being darker in a different livery? So F8 is attached to Aux 1 as per the data sheet for the decoder. I assume that there is a CV that will dim and brighten the lights ... if you have any suggestions please?? Thanks,

 

Ian

 

Ian,

 

CV60 will dim all AUX equally. Range of values is 1 - 255, lower values give geater dimming. Read the existing value before you start to change things. If it reads value 0, then the lights are at full power.

 

If there are  any AUX which you do not wish to dim, set a 'dimming mask' (i.e. the one's that you don't want to dim are 'masked' from the dimming effect) with CV 154. If you understand binary maths or know how to use Bit setting, this is fully covered in the ZIMO small decoder manual, page 28. If not, tell me what you are trying to achieve and I'll take it from there.

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

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Paul,

 

Thanks. The reading of CV60 for all my 153s for CV60 is 0. The Arriva Train Wales version has much darker windows so the light effect is not so noticed. The lights may have been fitted with resistors so they are not overbright so I will contact the fitter now.

 

Thanks for all your help. I could do with a class to attend on Zimo CVs. Basic stuff not programming sounds. Things like managing aux functions (assigning them to different keys, the masking you mentioned, dimming etc), sorting out juddery motors (although I now know about CV 302 being set to 75 and 76 thanks to Digitrains, who are wonderful), CV settings for smaller layouts where max speed never happens and probably many more things that are "basic" that I simply don't know about but are of the "blimey why did I not know that variety". Also a demonstration of Activedrive using a loco plus most of the aforementioned using track and locos. We all learn in different ways, Visual, Auditory, Reading & Writing, Kinesthetic (the work of a guy called Kolb) and a Zimo manual will only appeal to 25% of learners - unless all modellers are exactly the same in learning style.

 

You are kind and generous both with your time, patience and help. Many, many thanks. I think this problem is now sorted.

 

Ian

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Paul,

 

Thanks. The reading of CV60 for all my 153s for CV60 is 0. The Arriva Train Wales version has much darker windows so the light effect is not so noticed. The lights may have been fitted with resistors so they are not overbright so I will contact the fitter now.

 

Thanks for all your help. I could do with a class to attend on Zimo CVs. Basic stuff not programming sounds. Things like managing aux functions (assigning them to different keys, the masking you mentioned, dimming etc), sorting out juddery motors (although I now know about CV 302 being set to 75 and 76 thanks to Digitrains, who are wonderful), CV settings for smaller layouts where max speed never happens and probably many more things that are "basic" that I simply don't know about but are of the "blimey why did I not know that variety". Also a demonstration of Activedrive using a loco plus most of the aforementioned using track and locos. We all learn in different ways, Visual, Auditory, Reading & Writing, Kinesthetic (the work of a guy called Kolb) and a Zimo manual will only appeal to 25% of learners - unless all modellers are exactly the same in learning style.

 

You are kind and generous both with your time, patience and help. Many, many thanks. I think this problem is now sorted.

 

Ian

 

Ian

 

Thank you for your kind and encouraging words.

 

This is what I have been doing at my DDC/sound demos at exhibitions for years, though I've not been invited to any shows in your area.

 

Digitrains are having an open day shortly at their shop. I'll be there to discuss any of these topics,though i acn see thatwould be a long trip for you unless you are in the area for other reasons.

 

Kind regards

 

Paul

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Miserable southerners! I have lived down here for 40 odd years now but I was born in Derby so I have some experience. Seriously, is there any way of keeping track of where you are doing demos please? I would really like to attend one. I did think about the Digitrains one as they have four of my locos and I could have collected them if they were ready. However diary events have now taken over anyway.  With the advent of Javelins on HS1 down here and good connections to Lincoln, Digitrains is not that far. I did Doncaster Show by train last year with no problems. Thanks.

 

Ian

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Miserable southerners! I have lived down here for 40 odd years now but I was born in Derby so I have some experience. Seriously, is there any way of keeping track of where you are doing demos please? I would really like to attend one. I did think about the Digitrains one as they have four of my locos and I could have collected them if they were ready. However diary events have now taken over anyway.  With the advent of Javelins on HS1 down here and good connections to Lincoln, Digitrains is not that far. I did Doncaster Show by train last year with no problems. Thanks.

 

Ian

 

Ian,

 

I usually attend Doncaster, but have never been invited to demo there either.

 

Next two shows after the Digitrains event are Mansfield and Lincoln (though the latter will be held at Newark showground for the foreseeable future) early next year.

 

Paul

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